Nightforce nx8 4-32x50

[SDHNTR]

Nope. Once Sighted in I never touch the dials again. That is what the hash marks are for. I use them for aiming marks, I don't care if they are MIL or MOA, they are just a reference point to use for aiming and repeatability "IF" I need to take a second shot. When I started hunting 57 years ago there were no such things as hash marks or electronic range finders. You made a WAG with a steady rest and visualized where you wanted to aim knowing where your PB range was while using your crosshairs as reference points and you fired. In the early days sometimes it would take the third shot to kill something, as the years progressed I got it down to two shots, and now with better scopes, 95% of the time I do it in one shot. What helped more than anything was shooting coyotes year around for about 25 years for extra money. The less you missed, the less you had to reload. Still wore out several varmint rifles though. I am an old dog who see's no reason to learn new tricks when the old ones still work.

If you genuinely are interested in learning, I would be happy to give you an honest explanation of an important point you are missing.

If not, you can keep doing you.

 

[SDHNTR]

Someone needs to write the definitive guide as to why SFP and high magnification do not mix well, and pin it. This topic keeps resurfacing.

 

[Elkman17]

If you genuinely are interested in learning, I would be happy to give you an honest explanation of an important point you are missing.

If not, you can keep doing you.

I am actually interested, can you share it please. I’m reading all of these responses, I just haven’t had time to reply to them all. Is it because the “hold overs” change with every magnification change on an sfp?

 

[BluMtn]

I am actually interested, can you share it please. I’m reading all of these responses, I just haven’t had time to reply to them all. Is it because the “hold overs” change with every magnification change on an sfp?

Just means if you don't shoot with a FFP scope you aren't in the cool club. I am not trying convince anybody my way is the best or only way to hunt using a scoped rifle. But the Hollier than thou is really getting old. I don't see any reason to bring this subject up anymore on my part. I will leave it to the "Pro's".

 

[Dave Chilson]

Just means if you don't shoot with a FFP scope you aren't in the cool club. I am not trying convince anybody my way is the best or only way to hunt using a scoped rifle. But the Hollier than thou is really getting old. I don't see any reason to bring this subject up anymore on my part. I will leave it to the "Pro's".

SDHNTR is an insufferable twat. Don’t mind him.

 

[Elkman17]

Just means if you don't shoot with a FFP scope you aren't in the cool club. I am not trying convince anybody my way is the best or only way to hunt using a scoped rifle. But the Hollier than thou is really getting old. I don't see any reason to bring this subject up anymore on my part. I will leave it to the "Pro's".

I appreciate the info for sure! I’m by no means a “long range shooter.” I’m just trying to set a rifle up for the ability to shoot longer ranges when I hunt out of state, or when the rare opportunity arises here in the Pacific Northwest where I live. Second focal plane is the type of scope I was initially going to get, because I was worried about how the crosshairs dim when going to a lower magnification on a ffp. You, and another guy on here I can’t remember his name right off hand actually have this scope (I think both of you have more than 1) and both have it in sfp which is good to hear. I’m just trying to listen to what everyone says and then kind of form my own best guess after that, since the furthest shot I’ve ever taken on a deer was 322 yards (neck shot with a .270). And also, none of the stores around me that sell scopes have night force so I can’t actually hold one and look in it before I order it.

 

[SDHNTR]

I am actually interested, can you share it please. I’m reading all of these responses, I just haven’t had time to reply to them all. Is it because the “hold overs” change with every magnification change on an sfp?

The bottom line is Field of View is really important when hunting. You need to be able to see your hits. You need to know where the animal went and how it reacted when you shoot. This is critical information. Magnification shrinks FOV on all scopes. This is somewhat subjective but generally somewhere between 10-15x magnification is where usable FOV maxes out. Anything beyond that will make spotting your hits or animal reactions at the point of recoil nearly impossible.

So with a SFP scope where the hashmarks on the reticle are only accurately subtended at max power, you just handicapped yourself tremendously. You can only use that reticle to hold wind, or hold over, at max power and therefore such a shrunken FOV that you are eliminating valuable information from being able to see what you are shooting at during recoil.


And I am by no means an FFP zealot. I don’t care what the cool kids use. I just care what works for hunting. In fact, overall I own far more SFP scopes and actually prefer them for most hunting, I just keep the magnification to a reasonable limit. 32x is way beyond that limit.

 

[Arrowhunters5]

Lots of good info here, but some incorrect and silly blanket statements made as well. I usually don’t comment about what others say, but Elkman17 seems is genuinely interested in learning.

I will try to simplify it as best I can, in as simple language I can. (There are ton of videos out there that will explain this better than I can though.)

When making corrections for bullet “drop” there are three ways to accomplish it that I am aware of.

“Kentucky windage” I call it anyway. Is knowing your rifle and “guessing” your holdover, or bullet drop. This sounds like what BluMtn does.

Reticle subtension. Using the “hash” marks on a reticle to make the correction based on your rifles predetermined and calculated drop. This is almost always accomplished with a FFP scope. As the subtension, (distance between the hash marks) stay the same throughout the zoom range. The reticle will appear to grow and shrink as the power is adjusted. Therefore the correct hash mark can be used at any power.

Turret adjustment. This is what I use, and why I use SFP scopes. Adjusting the turrets to the rifles predetermined and calculated bullet drop. The hash marks are typically not used and really don’t matter. However, unlike previously stated, “with a SFP scope where the hashmarks on the reticle are only accurately subtended at max power” in this case 32x, is incorrect. This reticle is marked with two sets of numbers, one for 16 power and one for 32 power. Therefore, if one chose to, they could use the hash marks to compensate for the drop of the rifle with this SFP scope at either 32x, or 16x. Makes this scope more versatile in my opinion. You can google the CF2D reticle to see for yourself.

I have to chuckle at the silly blanket statements like, I don’t see why anyone would use a SFP scope or SFP scopes are a non-starter. Well someone must use them or scope manufacturers would not be making them. Fortunately my freezers are always full from using my SFP scopes and dialing my corrections. Just works for me and my group of hunting companions. There are more than one way to do things, and everyone is different. I won’t even get into MOA vs Mil…..

I think you are on the right track asking questions. There is a ton of experience on here and you will find the answers you seek with continued research. You may want to talk to someone you know in person, that shoots long enough distances to require correcting for bullet trajectory. Look at their equipment, ask how they do it, and why. Try to find what will work for YOU. Then look for optics to fit your intended use. Also consider purchasing used to save money in case you find you want to change your approach. Good luck!!!

 

[SDHNTR]

Lots of good info here, but some incorrect and silly blanket statements made as well. I usually don’t comment about what others say, but Elkman17 seems is genuinely interested in learning.

I will try to simplify it as best I can, in as simple language I can. (There are ton of videos out there that will explain this better than I can though.)

When making corrections for bullet “drop” there are three ways to accomplish it that I am aware of.

“Kentucky windage” I call it anyway. Is knowing your rifle and “guessing” your holdover, or bullet drop. This sounds like what BluMtn does.

Reticle subtension. Using the “hash” marks on a reticle to make the correction based on your rifles predetermined and calculated drop. This is almost always accomplished with a FFP scope. As the subtension, (distance between the hash marks) stay the same throughout the zoom range. The reticle will appear to grow and shrink as the power is adjusted. Therefore the correct hash mark can be used at any power.

Turret adjustment. This is what I use, and why I use SFP scopes. Adjusting the turrets to the rifles predetermined and calculated bullet drop. The hash marks are typically not used and really don’t matter. However, unlike previously stated, “with a SFP scope where the hashmarks on the reticle are only accurately subtended at max power” in this case 32x, is incorrect. This reticle is marked with two sets of numbers, one for 16 power and one for 32 power. Therefore, if one chose to, they could use the hash marks to compensate for the drop of the rifle with this SFP scope at either 32x, or 16x. Makes this scope more versatile in my opinion. You can google the CF2D reticle to see for yourself.

I have to chuckle at the silly blanket statements like, I don’t see why anyone would use a SFP scope or SFP scopes are a non-starter. Well someone must use them or scope manufacturers would not be making them. Fortunately my freezers are always full from using my SFP scopes and dialing my corrections. Just works for me and my group of hunting companions. There are more than one way to do things, and everyone is different. I won’t even get into MOA vs Mil…..

I think you are on the right track asking questions. There is a ton of experience on here and you will find the answers you seek with continued research. You may want to talk to someone you know in person, that shoots long enough distances to require correcting for bullet trajectory. Look at their equipment, ask how they do it, and why. Try to find what will work for YOU. Then look for optics to fit your intended use. Also consider purchasing used to save money in case you find you want to change your approach. Good luck!!!

If that was directed at my comments, you are are misquoting my remarks. I said earlier that this particular scope, with 32x AND SFP, was a non starter. Not all SFP. Thats not a blanket statement, that’s a rather specific statement. Also, as stated, I mostly use SFP too. Just not high magnification. And I also clearly stated that you could use the scope at 16x and math up the subtensions if you please. To me, that’s not practical, and even 16x is a bit tighter FOV than I prefer.

ElkMan17, I appreciate your curiosity and interest in learning.

 

[Elkman17]

Lots of good info here, but some incorrect and silly blanket statements made as well. I usually don’t comment about what others say, but Elkman17 seems is genuinely interested in learning.

I will try to simplify it as best I can, in as simple language I can. (There are ton of videos out there that will explain this better than I can though.)

When making corrections for bullet “drop” there are three ways to accomplish it that I am aware of.

“Kentucky windage” I call it anyway. Is knowing your rifle and “guessing” your holdover, or bullet drop. This sounds like what BluMtn does.

Reticle subtension. Using the “hash” marks on a reticle to make the correction based on your rifles predetermined and calculated drop. This is almost always accomplished with a FFP scope. As the subtension, (distance between the hash marks) stay the same throughout the zoom range. The reticle will appear to grow and shrink as the power is adjusted. Therefore the correct hash mark can be used at any power.

Turret adjustment. This is what I use, and why I use SFP scopes. Adjusting the turrets to the rifles predetermined and calculated bullet drop. The hash marks are typically not used and really don’t matter. However, unlike previously stated, “with a SFP scope where the hashmarks on the reticle are only accurately subtended at max power” in this case 32x, is incorrect. This reticle is marked with two sets of numbers, one for 16 power and one for 32 power. Therefore, if one chose to, they could use the hash marks to compensate for the drop of the rifle with this SFP scope at either 32x, or 16x. Makes this scope more versatile in my opinion. You can google the CF2D reticle to see for yourself.

I have to chuckle at the silly blanket statements like, I don’t see why anyone would use a SFP scope or SFP scopes are a non-starter. Well someone must use them or scope manufacturers would not be making them. Fortunately my freezers are always full from using my SFP scopes and dialing my corrections. Just works for me and my group of hunting companions. There are more than one way to do things, and everyone is different. I won’t even get into MOA vs Mil…..

I think you are on the right track asking questions. There is a ton of experience on here and you will find the answers you seek with continued research. You may want to talk to someone you know in person, that shoots long enough distances to require correcting for bullet trajectory. Look at their equipment, ask how they do it, and why. Try to find what will work for YOU. Then look for optics to fit your intended use. Also consider purchasing used to save money in case you find you want to change your approach. Good luck!!!

Thanks arrowhunter for taking the time to write all that up! I have been researching this scope, along with some others quite a bit so I definitely knew about the 16 and 32 power hash mark thing that you mentioned, I just wanted to listen to people and not make any corrections. The third method you mentioned is how I intend to use the rifle, that’s how almost every guy I know who shoots longer ranges does it and it makes the most sense to me.

 

[Elkman17]

If that was directed at my comments, you are are misquoting my remarks. I said earlier that this particular scope, with 32x AND SFP, was a non starter. Not all SFP. Thats not a blanket statement, that’s a rather specific statement. Also, as stated, I mostly use SFP too. Just not high magnification. And I also clearly stated that you could use the scope at 16x and math up the subtensions if you please. To me, that’s not practical, and even 16x is a bit tighter FOV than I prefer.

ElkMan17, I appreciate your curiosity and interest in learning.

Thanks SD, I appreciate you trying to help me out. I don’t usually post on here a ton. (5 years I’ve been a member and still a FNG haha) but this is something I want to learn about because there has been instances where I could use it. Living on the west coast most of the hunters I know don’t bother with long range at all. Hell, a lot of guys still use lever action 300 savages with fixed 4 power scopes because the brush is so thick in a lot of places. I hunt a few other states besides my home state, and have been putting in for points in a few more to eventually hunt there as well. So that’s why I posted this question on here, to learn as much as I can by reading what guys who actually do it say. And I’ve been looking at this scope for a few different reasons, but one of them is nightforces reputation. I want this set up to be good for the long term, so I don’t feel like I need to buy something new in 5 years and waste a bunch of money.

 

[Qholum37]

I have a 4-32 in FFP and it’s an awesome scope that I use for big country type hunts. I also live in Oregon and hunt blacktails in the timber and this scope doesn't fit that task very well. It could maybe work with the SFP version but I tend to agree with some other comments on here about a 32x SFP scope. I use smaller scopes for that like the 3-10 SHV if you want to stick with Nightforce. I would also strongly consider a Trijicon 4-16x50, that has been my favorite “do all” scope for a few years now. I also have the 2.5-15x42 version and it is great as well. Both are SFP and very good hunting scopes. Bright clear glass and very durable.

 

[SDHNTR]

Thanks SD, I appreciate you trying to help me out. I don’t usually post on here a ton. (5 years I’ve been a member and still a FNG haha) but this is something I want to learn about because there has been instances where I could use it. Living on the west coast most of the hunters I know don’t bother with long range at all. Hell, a lot of guys still use lever action 300 savages with fixed 4 power scopes because the brush is so thick in a lot of places. I hunt a few other states besides my home state, and have been putting in for points in a few more to eventually hunt there as well. So that’s why I posted this question on here, to learn as much as I can by reading what guys who actually do it say. And I’ve been looking at this scope for a few different reasons, but one of them is nightforces reputation. I want this set up to be good for the long term, so I don’t feel like I need to buy something new in 5 years and waste a bunch of money.

Look real hard at the compact 2.5-10x42 NXS, or if you feel you want more power, the 3-15x50 NXS. Both are functional and practical SFP scopes that will cover all reasonable hunting ranges, short and long. As are the two Trijicons mentioned above.

BTW, I’m also a guy who owns a .300 Savage 99 with a Weaver K4!

 

[Elkman17]

I have a 4-32 in FFP and it’s an awesome scope that I use for big country type hunts. I also live in Oregon and hunt blacktails in the timber and this scope doesn't fit that task very well. It could maybe work with the SFP version but I tend to agree with some other comments on here about a 32x SFP scope. I use smaller scopes for that like the 3-10 SHV if you want to stick with Nightforce. I would also strongly consider a Trijicon 4-16x50, that has been my favorite “do all” scope for a few years now. I also have the 2.5-15x42 version and it is great as well. Both are SFP and very good hunting scopes. Bright clear glass and very durable.

I definitely agree it’s too much scope to pack around through the brush of western Oregon. Also, the rifle with a bipod and a bull barrel are just way too heavy for blacktail hunting. This gun I’m trying to set up for longer ranges I’d use almost exclusively out of state.

 

[199p]

Its a big scope that the size only makes sense when shots are expected to be above 400y and some.

Under that the Nxs compact is a great option, much smaller scope, better weight and balance to the rifle.

I find above 2x magnification the picture is very average.

 

[Elkman17]

Look real hard at the compact 2.5-10x42 NXS, or if you feel you want more power, the 3-15x50 NXS. Both are functional and practical SFP scopes that will cover all reasonable hunting ranges, short and long. As are the two Trijicons mentioned above.

BTW, I’m also a guy who owns a .300 Savage 99 with a Weaver K4!

That set up as taken a lot of Roosevelt bulls in the hills around my house over the years. The rifle I hunt deer with here I have a 4-12 power scope on, and it’s perfect for what I need here. I was thinking I would need more than 15 power magnification for the 500-600 yard shots in places like Colorado or Wyoming. You don’t think so?

 

[SDHNTR]

That set up as taken a lot of Roosevelt bulls in the hills around my house over the years. The rifle I hunt deer with here I have a 4-12 power scope on, and it’s perfect for what I need here. I was thinking I would need more than 15 power magnification for the 500-600 yard shots in places like Colorado or Wyoming. You don’t think so?

Definitely not. 15x will get you out to 5-600 yards with zero problem, even much further. In fact, once you go above that, you’re only introducing negatives IMO, due to loss of FOV. I hunt all over the western states and I have never once felt the need for more than 15x when hunting.

 

[Dmoua]

I appreciate the info for sure! I’m by no means a “long range shooter.” I’m just trying to set a rifle up for the ability to shoot longer ranges when I hunt out of state, or when the rare opportunity arises here in the Pacific Northwest where I live. Second focal plane is the type of scope I was initially going to get, because I was worried about how the crosshairs dim when going to a lower magnification on a ffp. You, and another guy on here I can’t remember his name right off hand actually have this scope (I think both of you have more than 1) and both have it in sfp which is good to hear. I’m just trying to listen to what everyone says and then kind of form my own best guess after that, since the furthest shot I’ve ever taken on a deer was 322 yards (neck shot with a .270). And also, none of the stores around me that sell scopes have night force so I can’t actually hold one and look in it before I order it.

I own both 4-32 FFP and SFP Nx8 scopes. If you’re only hunting open country(sage brush, desert, etc) a FFP will be perfectly fine. However if you can go from open terrain to thick timber in a short period of time where a close shot might present itself (pretty common in the PNW) then SFP is the way to go. My FFP scopes sit on 10x and higher at all times. Anything below that and the reticle is hard to see. At 4x with a SFP scope I can see the reticle just fine even in timbered areas. I also dial for everything when taking longer shots on a hunt. I have yet to feel handicapped while hunting with a SFP scope even though I shoot matches with a FFP scope. I can see trace at 16x with the NX8 while shooting my 12lb 6.5 Creed. I live and hunt in the PNW. A SFP scope is what I would recommend.

 

[svivian]

That set up as taken a lot of Roosevelt bulls in the hills around my house over the years. The rifle I hunt deer with here I have a 4-12 power scope on, and it’s perfect for what I need here. I was thinking I would need more than 15 power magnification for the 500-600 yard shots in places like Colorado or Wyoming. You don’t think so?

You can easily shoot out to 1000 with just 10x. In fact I prefer less magnification a majority of the time especially hunting

 

[35pappy]

I have several I hunt/shoot steel with. I'm far from an expert, but i love mine.