Nightforce ATACR ring torque

I run SHV’s torqued to 30in/lbs. Zero issues. The equal clamping force is what makes a difference. Bolts and screws stay put a lot better like that. The torque numbers are important, yes. Just as, if not more important, are the tapped screw holes of your receiver/action in alignment and are your rings machined well and matching up? Misalignment can cause damage too. Add over torquing and a crushed/damaged scope is likely. In any case, take a few $1000 or any other price range of scopes and beat them up. All things being equal, the NF probably won’t be the first to fail. That’s where “Bombproof”comes from.
 
Any particular reason you prefer to under-torque them compared to NF's specs?
It's what felt right on the threads as I was torquing them down. I also can't find anywhere that NF directly states 25 is the spec. The only torque mentioned in the ATACR manual is for the zero stop set screws.
 
The night force torque wrench only comes with a 25 inch pound torque stick.

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I definitely see what you mean about bombproof. Many on here act like Nightforce, Maven, and Trijicon are the only scopes qualified to take a single shot on a rifle. If you read the drop test thread it is pretty convincing. Since I got on here it made me more critical of my equipment. I did find myself adjusting my Leupolds on occasion, and that was mild use. I also had my vx3 ride in a truck cross country and dial to kill a cow elk at 348 yards. Since then my leupolds stay at home and my travel rifle wears a Nightforce SHV. Ialso upgraded my miu ting tactics and consistency. I trust all of them to do what I ask of them.
Which SHV do you have? Any issues ever with regular wear n tear?
 
Neither the scope ring manufacturer nor the scope manufacturer can absolutely specify a torque specification that will absolutely hold a scope and not damage the tube.



There are several variables on the scope that will influence maximum torque that the ring manufacturer can’t control when specifying a generic torque in the instructions:

Scope tube material (6061, 7075, extruded 6063, Chinesium etc).

Scope tube thickness (can be roughly estimated by the relative weight of the scope compared to other similar scopes).

Internal clearances… how much can it compress before internal components bind or get damaged.

Frictional Coefficient of the scope tube coating and surface finish.

Weight/recoil of the rifle and scope… ie a light rifle w/ stout recoil using a heavy scope is worst case scenario.



Likewise there are some features on the ring that the scope manufacturers can’t control if you want them to specify the max torque:

Thread pitch of the cap screw: the finer the pitch, the lower the maximum torque that will crush a tube.

Width of the ring.

Number of screws on the ring… kind of

Ring internal geometry & tolerances.

Surface finish of the ring bore.

Thread quality & bolt head geometry (ie socket head vs counter sink).


This doesn’t really answer the question… so I would start out around 20 inch pounds (tough, relatively heavy scope) and make a small paint pen mark on the tube at the intersection. Then shoot a box of shells. If that scope moves you’ll see it in your groups and the paint mark will crack.


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