Newbie to Archery - Advice and Help!

[Ntuttle15]

Hey fellas,

Im wanting to get into the archery game. And as I'm sure some of you have experienced the price of getting into it is just a little high for me at the moment.. I'm Newly married... should've made that purchase before the wedding I guess..
Ive searched through the archery forum a little, but I might not be using the right keywords, so I'm sorry if its already been discussed. If it has just please direct me. Anyways, what would be your best recommendations for a beginner level bow that are on the lower end of the price range? Not sure what price that is yet... im more looking for what the best options are in each range so I can keep my eye out for potential deals. Probably like 400 for a set up bow.... then have to buy all the other things on top.
Not afraid of going used or a little older. Just starting out so I don't wanna get in too deep. But mostly just looking for advice on what bows to look for. In that several years old, or newer and cheaper end.. I would think it would be best to buy a top of the line 5 year old bow vs. A cheap new bow? Not sure. Thats why I ask. Planning on getting to the archery shop and shooting some to be able to decide. But I want and idea of what to look for as well.

Thanks all!

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[TreeStandAthlete]

Hey fellas,

Im wanting to get into the archery game. And as I'm sure some of you have experienced the price of getting into it is just a little high for me at the moment.. I'm Newly married... should've made that purchase before the wedding I guess..
Ive searched through the archery forum a little, but I might not be using the right keywords, so I'm sorry if its already been discussed. If it has just please direct me. Anyways, what would be your best recommendations for a beginner level bow that are on the lower end of the price range? Not sure what price that is yet... im more looking for what the best options are in each range so I can keep my eye out for potential deals. Probably like 400 for a set up bow.... then have to buy all the other things on top.
Not afraid of going used or a little older. Just starting out so I don't wanna get in too deep. But mostly just looking for advice on what bows to look for. In that several years old, or newer and cheaper end.. I would think it would be best to buy a top of the line 5 year old bow vs. A cheap new bow? Not sure. Thats why I ask. Planning on getting to the archery shop and shooting some to be able to decide. But I want and idea of what to look for as well.

Thanks all!

Sent from my SM-G981V using Tapatalk

They make RTH, or Ready to Hunt, packages that are I believe around the $500 mark. Those come with everything you need except a release and your arrows. The PSE stinger is a good solid option in that type of setup. It's a great place to start because you get to shoot/hunt and learn what you like and don't like and then when you're ready to upgrade because the bow can fit such a wide range of draw length and draw weight it's an easy sell on the used market.

You can get good used deals but honestly if you're just starting out I'd go with a new entry level package. There's no worse way to start into a new hobby then to end up spending all your money on a used setup that ends up not working. Buy from a local pro shop (not a big box store) even if it costs a little more, all good shops go the extra mile for folks that buy from them, especially new shooters.


Edit: Forgot to mention, don't cheap out on the release. Expect to spend $100+, it's something that will last the rest of your archery career.

 

[chadcharb]

Look at buying a 3-4 year old flagship bow. My opinion is most all of the rth bow packages are junk. You'll get better performance and quality of of a used flagship bow. I just helped a buddy pick up and lightly used bow for 550 completely loaded. Get on some archery buy sell groups on Facebook there's good deals all over.

 

[TreeStandAthlete]

The speed difference between a current year RTH bow and a 5 year old flagship is negligible. A PSE stinger or Bear Resurgence shoots an IBO of 315fps and a 2016 Halon 7 is 335fps, hell a current year model flagship is only in the 350's. Don't forget there's plenty of folks killing big shit with a 160fps longbow.


As for entry level bows being "junk". That's just not true. In today's market you'd have to actively try to find a bad bow. None of the big manufacturers make a bad bow, it's all just personal preference (and marketing ).

 

[PurpleDriver]

I’ll admit, I’m a Mathews loyalist. Owned zmax, black max2, LX, SwitchbackXT, Monster6, and a VXR. Only 3 of those were bought new. Never had an issue with any of them.

my father in law was in exactly your spot a couple years back. Had the same $400 budget even. I picked him up a 10 year old Switchback, 30” draw, 70lbs. Put a new string on and tuned it for him. That was 5 years ago and he still shoots that bow right now.

my Current neighbor also in same spot. He bought a RTH setup. Not impressed and that bow is currently back at manufacturer.

long story to say, buy you a Switchback XT with your draw length and go to a local pro shop to let them tune it. You’ll be happy with your $400 purchase.

 

[Billy Goat]

I don't think the entry level bows are bad, but I think a Hoyt Katera/Alphamax, or Mathews Switchback XT are in a different league. Those are bows that you should be able to find in the $250-$350 range. Not limited to those either, just those are bows I have a fair amount of time with. The issue with the Mathews is draw specific cams, so I'd shy away from those til you know your exact draw length, which can take a while to determine. I really liked the Bowtech Destroyer series, but they can have limb issues. If you were to find a d340 or d350 that has barnesdales on it I'd get it in a heartbeat for $350 or less. Elites have a lifetime warranty previous to '17 I think it is. They had some nice bows that many already have barnesdale limbs on. The synergy, tempo, energy series, few others.

The RTH packages have some pretty low end accessories, they will get you started, but aren't that desirable. Point being, if you shop around on used equipment, it's not going to loose the value that a lot of the plastic accessories will if you decide to move away from an item, or archery all together. The big advantage to the RTH packages is the adjustability. Most have a huge draw length swing, and wide range of weight adjustment. The grips are frequently annoying, limbs seem a little subpar, strings aren't much count but you will want new strings on a used bow more than likely anyways.

Basically a lot of the RTH packages are just cheap, good to get you going, they will work, but are of low build quality.

I don't think $500 is a great budget honestly, just too much stuff that you will need to get. Arrows are going to be $60/6, a release $50 at bare minimum. So that already is less than $400 for a bow, rest, and sight. That ain't leaving you a lot. The bows ten years ago were pretty good, I do like most of the entry level bows, but they are what they are.

 

[WELLSTON_HUNTER]

i would go with a RTH package it allows you to change draw length on the fly with just an allen wrench. helps with trying new releases. i had to adjust mine 1/4 inch when i switched to a thumb release. i have had my Bear package 7 years and replaced the sting once. i was shooting one inch groups at 20 yards in the first 30 minutes. the bow is still as quite now as when i bought it.

 

[alabamahunt]

I’m pretty new as well. 3 years ago I spent a little over $2,000 on a top of the line setup. Best arrows, broadheads, quiver, stabilizer, sight, inserts, SKB case etc. I’m satisfied with it but didn’t really know what I was looking for in a bow to be unsatisfied to be honest. That entire setup now is worth less than half now probably. Bows lose value faster than a used car. I would buy a bow about 5 years old and take it and have it tuned by a local bow shop and spend your money on good arrows and broadheads. Even a bow a year old will cost probably 20% less than a new one

 

[rachunter]

I have a like-new Mathews Switchback 30", 60-70# with Mathews drop-a-way rest, sight, brand new string, and quiver that also comes with a Mathews soft case. $300 plus whatever it cost to ship if you are interested.

 

[Ntuttle15]

I don't think the entry level bows are bad, but I think a Hoyt Katera/Alphamax, or Mathews Switchback XT are in a different league. Those are bows that you should be able to find in the $250-$350 range. Not limited to those either, just those are bows I have a fair amount of time with. The issue with the Mathews is draw specific cams, so I'd shy away from those til you know your exact draw length, which can take a while to determine. I really liked the Bowtech Destroyer series, but they can have limb issues. If you were to find a d340 or d350 that has barnesdales on it I'd get it in a heartbeat for $350 or less. Elites have a lifetime warranty previous to '17 I think it is. They had some nice bows that many already have barnesdale limbs on. The synergy, tempo, energy series, few others.

The RTH packages have some pretty low end accessories, they will get you started, but aren't that desirable. Point being, if you shop around on used equipment, it's not going to loose the value that a lot of the plastic accessories will if you decide to move away from an item, or archery all together. The big advantage to the RTH packages is the adjustability. Most have a huge draw length swing, and wide range of weight adjustment. The grips are frequently annoying, limbs seem a little subpar, strings aren't much count but you will want new strings on a used bow more than likely anyways.

Basically a lot of the RTH packages are just cheap, good to get you going, they will work, but are of low build quality.

I don't think $500 is a great budget honestly, just too much stuff that you will need to get. Arrows are going to be $60/6, a release $50 at bare minimum. So that already is less than $400 for a bow, rest, and sight. That ain't leaving you a lot. The bows ten years ago were pretty good, I do like most of the entry level bows, but they are what they are.

Thanks for the input. I guess I should have clarified in the post. I'm looking at around 400 for the bow itself. I'd spend the other money on the other accessories. Release and arrows and whatever else is needed. Getting a bow with attachments is just a bonus built into the 400.

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[Ntuttle15]

I’m pretty new as well. 3 years ago I spent a little over $2,000 on a top of the line setup. Best arrows, broadheads, quiver, stabilizer, sight, inserts, SKB case etc. I’m satisfied with it but didn’t really know what I was looking for in a bow to be unsatisfied to be honest. That entire setup now is worth less than half now probably. Bows lose value faster than a used car. I would buy a bow about 5 years old and take it and have it tuned by a local bow shop and spend your money on good arrows and broadheads. Even a bow a year old will cost probably 20% less than a new one

This is my thought exactly and partly why I asked the question... is it worth going the slightly older bow route maybe re-string it if needed and go from there.

That being said. What everyone else has said concerning adjustability of the so called "RTH" bows is a big bonus.. given the fact I don't have the experience with all that would need to be adjusted. It would help starting out.

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[Billy Goat]

Thanks for the input. I guess I should have clarified in the post. I'm looking at around 400 for the bow itself. I'd spend the other money on the other accessories. Release and arrows and whatever else is needed. Getting a bow with attachments is just a bonus built into the 400.

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That opens up a good bit. I'd focus on a decent sight, skip a stabilizer for a while as short as most use they aren't doing any stabilizing. Release is going to be what you like, but I wouldn't go too cheap like I said. I'm not a huge fan of them, but starting out a cheap whisker biscuit might be good for practice. Keeps the arrow contained, once you get more familiar with archery you can change to something else. I'd buy a cheap arrow tube side quiver to use while you practice, then down the road decide what you want for hunting.

 

[LONE HUNTER]

Thanks for the input. I guess I should have clarified in the post. I'm looking at around 400 for the bow itself. I'd spend the other money on the other accessories. Release and arrows and whatever else is needed. Getting a bow with attachments is just a bonus built into the 400.

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If you can figure your draw length correctly, an Elite Energy 32 or 35 would fit the bill really well. That switchback is a fantastic bow as well. Just all those bows are either cam or mod specific for draw length

 

[Ntuttle15]

If you can figure your draw length correctly, an Elite Energy 32 or 35 would fit the bill really well. That switchback is a fantastic bow as well. Just all those bows are either cam or mod specific for draw length

Understood. I'll get into the archery shop in the next couple weeks and try to get that figured out. Give me a much better Idea and narrow down what to look for. That's for all the help to everyone.

If anyone has references to other archery threads on here that are specifically useful I'd love to check them out. There's a lot to go through!

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[alabamahunt]

This is my thought exactly and partly why I asked the question... is it worth going the slightly older bow route maybe re-string it if needed and go

I wouldn’t recommend the RTH. But that’s me, I’m no archery expert. Just from handling and shooting one of my buddies a couple times you can tell the difference. I definitely wouldn’t pay $400 for a used entry level. Get a couple year old bow that was top of the line when they came out. Have it restrung by a local. When you want to upgrade just keep it for a back up/spare

 

[TheGDog]

Be realistic with yourself about Draw Weight you order/purchase. Nobody needs more than 60Lbs unless you're lobbin' em some ridiculously long distances. With shoulder injuries.. to be able to pull it back uber Ninja slow and without making any weirdo grunting or groaning... 54Lbs seems to be the sweet spot for me so far.

I prefer a two-jawed release so while on the sit you can click-in and it remains hooked-on. So I don't have to fuss with that in the moment of truth. I'd lost that release and got a single hooked one, where it breaks just like a trigger and super cleanly. But...it's not same since doesn't stay hooked on. With the hooked-on I don't have to look down anymore when it comes to bringing it all to bear.

I'd also say to definitely got a model where both ends of the bow have cams, rather then one a cam and one just a wheel. Seems like the double cam'd ones let-back-down a little less shoulder-rippingly rapid.

And make sure the on board quiver has a mounting system that screws on with a large knob hand-tighten screw. They kind where you pop one mounting post in... then rotate the quiver to wedge in the other mounting post? Stay away from that kind of quiver. They'll fall of on you while hikin' back out.

Maxima Reds are awesome. G5 Montec broadheads are pretty tough too. Had to dig one out of an old dead oak on the other side of a gullie from a miss. Buried it up to the threads! Took 30min to carve it out. The blades were not at all as bad as I'd have though they'd be for just hammering into a hard oak tree!

 

[Marble]

If my brother asked me this question I would send him to his local shop and have him look at any used bows for sale.

If you really like archery, you will want a relationship with a good archery shop.

Shoot as many bows as possible and choose the one you like the most.

For the most part, anything made within the last 5 years is going to be great.

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[NY12020]

Hey fellas,

Im wanting to get into the archery game. And as I'm sure some of you have experienced the price of getting into it is just a little high for me at the moment.. I'm Newly married... should've made that purchase before the wedding I guess..
Ive searched through the archery forum a little, but I might not be using the right keywords, so I'm sorry if its already been discussed. If it has just please direct me. Anyways, what would be your best recommendations for a beginner level bow that are on the lower end of the price range? Not sure what price that is yet... im more looking for what the best options are in each range so I can keep my eye out for potential deals. Probably like 400 for a set up bow.... then have to buy all the other things on top.
Not afraid of going used or a little older. Just starting out so I don't wanna get in too deep. But mostly just looking for advice on what bows to look for. In that several years old, or newer and cheaper end.. I would think it would be best to buy a top of the line 5 year old bow vs. A cheap new bow? Not sure. Thats why I ask. Planning on getting to the archery shop and shooting some to be able to decide. But I want and idea of what to look for as well.

Thanks all!

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PSE Stinger package would be a great place to start...the bow itself has tons of adjustment which will come in handy for a beginner. It may take some time to dial in your perfect draw length; the stinger has a big range of adjustment (i wanna say 21-30") in 1/2" increments with just an allen key. The draw weight range is also huge; and you will find that you will get stronger as you shoot more; and what started out as being hard to pull may be really easy after a few months. A 70lb stinger will go down to at least half that as far as peak weight. I think a package runs around 400ish; it would include pretty much everything that goes on the bow; you would need to pick up arrows and a release. If you wanted something more middle of the range; a PSE Drive package is about $100 more; but has some high end features like premium string/cables, higher quality riser (stiffer); and better limb pockets. Can't go wrong with either of these; and being that they are so adjustable; they will be very easy to sell if at some point you want to upgrade. The Drive in particular is one helluva bargain IMO; if you compare the materials/features it has with the other bow brands out there you will see the others that have the same features/speed/etc. are 300-400 bucks more.

Also with regard to "flagship" model bows; the differences are often very, very subtle but can cost a LOT more cash. What i mean is that a flagship bow is not necessarily any better than than an entry level bow; it just has more features/frills; with speed of course being the biggest factor impacting cost. Is a 340 IBO bow any "better" than a 320 IBO bow? Cams are made from the same materials; one is just more aggressive. Limbs are made from the exact same material. Riser materials can impact cost dramatically...is a forged riser better than a machined riser? Is 7000 series aluminum better than 6000 series? Its lighter for sure; and that's what sells...a lighter bow. At the end of the day; the difference between a $1000 bow and a $400 bow is about 30 feet per second and 1 pound of mass weight.

 

[quaggy25]

FWIW I use a Diamond Archery Infinite Edge. It’s older. But really adjustable and plan on passing it down to my kids. It’s a smaller bow tho. IMO they are great entry bows and reasonably priced.

 

[alex_b]

My first bow was a PSE Stinger 3G. It's a solid beginner setup.