Newbie reloading issues….

rhinorv

WKR
Joined
Aug 27, 2013
Messages
452
Be easy on me….

New to reloading and need some help.
CA Mesa 6.5 PRC, 24” barrel

Started reloading last summer and develped a load that worked. 143 eld-x, H1000, Remingtonton LR magnum primers, ~3000fps using 2-3x fired hornady brass. Did drop test and shot alot so am confident in this data.

Decided to upgrade brass and got some virgin ADG brass. Did a charge ladder with all same components just the new brass. Started to get pressure signs about the same charge as with the hornady brass. Used my magneto speed sporter and was showing ~2650-2700 fps. Didnt feel like that could be right so performed a drop test at 300 yards. Sure as shit that’s the right speed.

Around this time I started reloading for my 300 wm using 1x fired hornandy brass. Performed a ladder, stopped at pressure using 200gr eld-x, H1000 and the same Remington LR mag primers. It also is shooting very slow imo.


Sorry for the long post but I’m unsure. Both rifles are shooting sub moa, just slow. Can new brass make that big of difference in speed? Why is the 300wm speeds slow as well? Wondering if my scale may be off? Just coincidence with both being slow and these combinations just don’t work and try different powder?

Appreciate all the help….


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I wouldn’t expect that big of a velocity drop with virgin brass.

Any chance you’re leaving lube on the cases or in your chamber? That will prevent the brass from sealing against the chamber and show headstamp pressure signs at lower velocities.
 
I wouldn’t expect that big of a velocity drop with virgin brass.

Any chance you’re leaving lube on the cases or in your chamber? That will prevent the brass from sealing against the chamber and show headstamp pressure signs at lower velocities.

I suppose I could be. No different than I ever did with the hornady brass. Thanks for the input!


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Can you compare the cartridge dimensions to your old load, particularly headspace? Excessive headspace can create pressure signs via bolt thrust.
 
300+ fps slower makes me think your powder charges may be off. How are you measuring powder charges?
How many rounds are you firing to get the mv?

What mv are you seeing from your 300 WM? What is your powder charge for this rifle? How many rounds are you firing to get the mv?
 
if powder charges aren’t off, only thing I can think of is your powder got compromised by humidity or water or something.

I left powder in thrower hopper for a long time once in South Carolina low country humidity and it definitely slowed down. Not nearly that much though, that seems near impossible.
 
300+ fps slower makes me think your powder charges may be off. How are you measuring powder charges?
How many rounds are you firing to get the mv?

What mv are you seeing from your 300 WM? What is your powder charge for this rifle? How many rounds are you firing to get the mv?

Using the rcbs digital scale. I’m measuring every round individually. I used ~10 rounds with chrono and then today I just shot a 6 round group at 300yards after zeroing at 1.25” high at 100yards. Shot around 12.5” lower than point of aim and looking at my strelok app it looks like 2600fps or so is where I was at.

MV was about 2650-2700 per this same method with my 300wm.


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No it is different….


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I can’t say it’s a common issue, and have no clue which powders are susceptible to lot-to-lot variation, but three decades ago I had a slow pound of powder that drove me nuts. I was worried it was the gun, the scale, bad primers, the cases, phase of the moon, or something else. At max pressure it was simply slow. A third pound different lot from the first two fixed it and loads were essentially normal after that. That was a lot of powder ago, so it must not be a common issue.

Primers can also be slow, although I’ve never heard of more than 20 fps or so difference.

Definitely check the scale, but it might be worth it to grab a pound of powder. I’m very curious what is causing it, so let us know what you figure out.
 
Using the rcbs digital scale. I’m measuring every round individually. I used ~10 rounds with chrono and then today I just shot a 6 round group at 300yards after zeroing at 1.25” high at 100yards. Shot around 12.5” lower than point of aim and looking at my strelok app it looks like 2600fps or so is where I was at.

MV was about 2650-2700 per this same method with my 300wm.


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If you don't already have a set of scale check weights, I would recommend getting some to check the accuracy of your scale. Static can have an effect on scale accuracy as can A/C or heater (air currents). What was your powder charge with the H1000 for the 300wm? With a 200 grain bullet, I am guessing you should be somewhere around 2750-2800ish +/-, with the H1000 using a below max load.
 
If you don't already have a set of scale check weights, I would recommend getting some to check the accuracy of your scale. Static can have an effect on scale accuracy as can A/C or heater (air currents). What was your powder charge with the H1000 for the 300wm? With a 200 grain bullet, I am guessing you should be somewhere around 2750-2800ish +/-, with the H1000 using a below max load.

I ended up at 76.0 grains. It was dropping about 8.5” with a 200 yd zero. Honestly it’s not far from where I thought it should be but still felt it was a bit slow. It also has a 24” barrel so that could be some of it. The PRC was dropping like 12”! Super slow.

I have used the 50 gram weight that comes with it but I’ll look into some check weights as well.

Appreciate the info and questions…


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If you still have your old brass. Load up a few with your new powder and original load data and see if it performs differently. That will tell you if it’s the powder or not.

If it’s not the powder, along with the recommendations above, might also want to check the H2O capacity of your old and new brass.
 
If you still have your old brass. Load up a few with your new powder and original load data and see if it performs differently. That will tell you if it’s the powder or not.

If it’s not the powder, along with the recommendations above, might also want to check the H2O capacity of your old and new brass.

Smart! Thank you


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