New Tikka 7mm PRC for first elk hunt

[speakforthemind]

Hello! Apologies for a slightly mundane post but I'm new here and need to get my count up so I can use the classifieds. I recently picked up a Tikka T3X Lite in 7mm PRC for my first Elk hunt later this year. I spent a long time debating what to buy or build. I saw that Tikka finally released their 7mm PRC, which I was considering doing via a custom build, plus it was on sale, so I jumped on it! If anyone else is looking at these, the part numbers/descriptions don't seem to match up on every site. JRTXB37122MT is the stainless steel, lite, 22.4", threaded barrel, black stock. Some places I've seen this mislabeled as 24.3".

I have already purchased the limbsaver, Tikka vertical grip, and muzzle device for my suppressor. I plan to get the SRS 20MOA rail, Warne mountain tech rings, and I'm 90% settled on the Maven RS1.2 in MIL. Still deciding on the bipod. In a year or two I'll consider getting a chassis if I'm liking it. I'll update here after I'm able to get sighted in and test some different ammos.

I've hunted whitetail and (1) moose for about 20 years with my trusty Browning .270 but wanted an upgrade to something with longer range and a threaded barrel. I thought about using my 6.5 creedmoor AR10, but it's a bit heavy for the mountains. I know there are probably a million Tikka threads, but any comments and suggestions are welcome, otherwise thanks for reading!

 

[bojangles808]

welcome to the forum and congrats on your tikka. before you know it you'll have 4 of them in the safe. something to raise the comb (kydex, triad, Bradley) might not be a bad idea.

 

[IrkedCitizen]

The biggest thing about elk hunting is finding elk. The rifle doesn't really matter if you don't find elk.
I'd honestly just buy the Unknown Munitions Tikka rings and not worry about any degree of MOA/MIL. You can shoot pretty far with 0° MOA/MIL.

I have done the chassis thing. Folding buttstock is cool and all but I have gone back to a normal stock.

 

[Timberline001]

Yes, skip the rail. Tikkas come have an integrated rail. Get the unknown munitions tikka rings and you’re good to go. Everything else sounds great.

 

[ReddingArcher]

Another vote for the UM rings and no rail. I just picked up my tikka 7 prc last week and got an xlr chassis a month or so ago while waiting for the gun to come in. Time will tell if I like the chassis. You’ll enjoy the tikka! They are tough to beat. Good luck on your elk hunt.

 

[speakforthemind]

Alright I think I've been convinced to go with just the UM rings. From looking at the specs, I think the low should fit correctly. I'll look into the comb raisers too, thanks for the suggestion.

XLR Element is the chassis I was looking at, seems to be a nice balance of $/weight. I'll see how it goes without a chassis, the folding stock seems nice for carrying around though.

 

[ReddingArcher]

Alright I think I've been convinced to go with just the UM rings. From looking at the specs, I think the low should fit correctly. I'll look into the comb raisers too, thanks for the suggestion.

XLR Element is the chassis I was looking at, seems to be a nice balance of $/weight. I'll see how it goes without a chassis, the folding stock seems nice for carrying around though.

I think the folding chassis will be really beneficial in certain situations. I hunt a lot of super brushy country for blacktails so I think it’ll come in handy for sure. Hunting more open country where you’re not brush busting, probably not necessary.

 

[gtriple]

Alright I think I've been convinced to go with just the UM rings. From looking at the specs, I think the low should fit correctly. I'll look into the comb raisers too, thanks for the suggestion.

XLR Element is the chassis I was looking at, seems to be a nice balance of $/weight. I'll see how it goes without a chassis, the folding stock seems nice for carrying around though.

I’d get the medium height rings. Simply because when you eventually upgrade it to a Rokstok or a chassis with an adjustable height, I think the medium rings will be more comfortable. You’ll have to install or build a cheek rest on the factory stock anyways.

 

[cuerro viejo]

Do you have a dremal? I was getting a few contact points on both my tikka’s

 

[nm.otter]

I've hunted whitetail and (1) moose for about 20 years with my trusty Browning .270 but wanted an upgrade to something with longer range and a threaded barrel.

What is the maximum distance at which you hope to kill, and at (or above) what elevation?

 

[speakforthemind]

What is the maximum distance at which you hope to kill, and at (or above) what elevation?

For this hunt, the friend who's taking me says most their shots are within 300 yards. Elevation is 9,000 - 11,000 ft.

 

[nm.otter]

7mm PRC is a lot of recoil.

At 8,000 ft, factory 175 ELD-X should be lethal (1,800 FPS) out to 1200 yards from a 22" barrel. At 300 yards, you're going to hit them with a large expanding bullet at 2,640 FPS and destroy a lot of meat.

 

[speakforthemind]

I’d get the medium height rings. Simply because when you eventually upgrade it to a Rokstok or a chassis with an adjustable height, I think the medium rings will be more comfortable. You’ll have to install or build a cheek rest on the factory stock anyways.

Noted, thank you for the suggestion!

 

[speakforthemind]

Do you have a dremal? I was getting a few contact points on both my tikka’s

I do have a dremel. Where were the contact points?

I'll be practicing out to 600 yards, but I don't think I'd take a shot at an animal farther than that.

 

[cuerro viejo]

Run a piece of paper, but there is a piece on bottom just past chamber area on forearm, you will see it and then where ever the sides touch or are close. It didn’t make a big deal on initial accuracy but did on bigger shot strings

 

[cq0302]

I do have a dremel. Where were the contact points?

I'll be practicing out to 600 yards, but I don't think I'd take a shot at an animal farther than that.

Mark the stock where the action meets the barrel as a reference. I then run a silver sharpie along the side of the barrel and make a line on the stock to follow with the dremel. This is more than sufficient for any torque you could induce on the stock. There is also a faint casting mark on the top of the stock and you can open it up back to that. Take the action out of the stock and go to town with the dremel.

Also jump on amazon and get a cheek riser https://a.co/d/4z6Oag5

 

[speakforthemind]

Perfect, thank you! I'll check this out right away before sighting in.

 

[cuerro viejo]

Run a piece of paper, but there is a piece on bottom just past chamber area on forearm, you will see it and then where ever the sides touch or are close. It didn’t make a big deal on initial accuracy but did on bigger shot strings

When you put that action and barrel back make sure it’s seated on lug correctly. If it looks weird and overly floated it’s seated wrong.