New long range shooter

[WestSideMonster]

Was going to ask the same on a new thread until I found this. Have some hunting background but looking to get away from dead hold scopes with no adjustments.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Something of note that I've learned along the way is make sure you're computing correctly when you're trying to test things out or true things up. Either get a programmable rangefinder like Sig Kilo with AB, or use a good solver that takes in as many factors as possible. I recently downloaded the Revic app and it seems pretty user friendly and does convenient things like auto populate atmospherics based on GPS and station readings. I know Hornady really hammers on CDM's (Custom Drag Models) over BC solvers, but until they fix their 4DoF app from doing things like way overcorrecting for aerodynamic jump with a wind input, I'll use what seems to work. But things like AMR (Angle Modified Range) in traditional rangefinders are marketing BS that will do nothing but screw things up. It is imperative that you account for LOS (Line Of Sight) distance and shot angle so the solver can include TOF (Time Of Flight) in the equation.

Other critical inputs include:

• Scope height - this is probably the most common input I see incorrect. Center of bore to center of scope tube, on a Tikka you can measure off the ejection port. If using a standard 42-50mm objective with 30mm and low or medium rings, it's probably going to be close to 1.6"-1.875".
• BC - use the damn box BC if the solver doesn't have your bullet in a library. If you have a proven zero, know your expected cone of fire, have verified all your inputs and atmospherics, and are shooting sub MOA groups at 1k yards that are trending outside the expected impact area, come back and ask one of the long range wizards here.
• Velocity - this one is common to need tweaking. If you have a chronograph, great. If not, use box or expected reloading book velocity (accounting for barrel length, +/- 25fps/inch of difference is usually close) and usually within a couple shots at a waterline you can dial it pretty close.
• Powder factor/temp sensitivity - a chronograph really comes in handy here. Shoot samples at either end of the temp spectrum, both AB and the Revic solvers have this input.

That's all I can think of for now. This generally gets me close or on target, and typically only needs a 20fps velocity adjustment. Hope that helps.

 

[superhands]

Shoot in adverse weather, it can do wonders.

 

[Longshot_ultramag]

223 and a lot of practice is really sound advice. Took almost 6000 rounds to burn out my first 223 barrel.

Take notes when you are shooting. What you thought the wind was, what you held, what did it really take

BELIEVE THE BULLET

If you thought you needed a mil of wind and you only needed 1/2, stop to understand what you have thought that is wrong. The bullet’s flight path doesn’t lie to you.

Hard to beat a good shooting 223 for getting trigger time with low recoiling and cheaper ammo