New 16.25” barreled Howa Superlite short barrel

The specs on the Howa's have always intrigue me. When I'm browsing through the LGS, I pick one up, cycle the action, and that ends the curiosity and interest.
 
My OG 308 Super Lite (technically my wife's, but she shoots it once or twice a year, while I shoot it about once a month, LOL) is pretty solid now after I've worked it over. 1.5 or so MOA with 165 Accubonds at 2690 FPS for a 10 round group, mags work fine, no trigger issues either. That said, from the factory it left a lot to be desired. However, basically all of that headache was stock to action fitment, both the worst bedding I have ever seen on a gun, and action sitting too deep in the stock.

I'm very curious to find out if the HS Precision stock resolves some/all of that. I'm not replacing mine now that it's had the kinks worked out, but with the issues resolved from the factory, I think the SL is a nice little gun.
 
What’s different about the gen2? Already sounds like you’re going to have to replace the bm like on the gen 1. I found an howa 243win 16” ultralite in a gun shop a few years ago and was planning on buying it but I couldn’t hardly get the mag in or out with the bolt opened and back & cycled the bolt and it felt terrible so I backed out. My 16” tikka 243win weighs 5.4lbs vs 4.18 for the howa super light. It feeds better, is smoother, has better mags, and has a better trigger and bm. As much as I’d like the weight savings of the howa the down sides are to high and some of the issues are random. Bad feeding, trigger issues, bad stock fit, need to replace bottom metal, rough bolt cycling. If they would fix the issues and charge more I would try one. But for now a tikka at roughly 1lb heavier is worth it. Gun can be had for $650, $125 for muzzle threading, and a $400 stockys stock on a deal, at $1175total. Also you can get an ultralite contour barrel like the Howas and make the tikkas even lighter. I will say quite of few ppl I know run howa’s because they got them cheap. And after they’ve had a lot of rounds on them the bolt does smooth up some. And some of the older ones have smoother cycling bolts to start with.
 
What’s different about the gen2? Already sounds like you’re going to have to replace the bm like on the gen 1. I found an howa 243win 16” ultralite in a gun shop a few years ago and was planning on buying it but I couldn’t hardly get the mag in or out with the bolt opened and back & cycled the bolt and it felt terrible so I backed out. My 16” tikka 243win weighs 5.4lbs vs 4.18 for the howa super light. It feeds better, is smoother, has better mags, and has a better trigger and bm. As much as I’d like the weight savings of the howa the down sides are to high and some of the issues are random. Bad feeding, trigger issues, bad stock fit, need to replace bottom metal, rough bolt cycling. If they would fix the issues and charge more I would try one. But for now a tikka at roughly 1lb heavier is worth it. Gun can be had for $650, $125 for muzzle threading, and a $400 stockys stock on a deal, at $1175total. Also you can get an ultralite contour barrel like the Howas and make the tikkas even lighter. I will say quite of few ppl I know run howa’s because they got them cheap. And after they’ve had a lot of rounds on them the bolt does smooth up some. And some of the older ones have smoother cycling bolts to start with.

Gen 2 SL has a HS Precision stock with aluminum bedding block. Gen 1 had a Stockys with their fiberglass "accublock" bedding, which was the root cause of basically all of the issues (at least in my case). I still run the OEM metal, works fine for me, but I only torque to 35 in lbs. Not sure if bottom metal on Gen 2 is different or not.

I am on team "why not both?", lol - have a Tikka and a Super Lite.
 
Good to know

Can’t argue with that, both is best haha. I’m sure I could learn to love the howa if I spent a few months working out the kinks and buying some aftermarket parts for it.
 
Good to know

Can’t argue with that, both is best haha. I’m sure I could learn to love the howa if I spent a few months working out the kinks and buying some aftermarket parts for it.

I didn't buy anything extra (well, some Talley rings, but that was not to fix anything). I just put in the time to fix the bedding problems. Ended up adding about 1/8th of an inch of bedding at the back, and about 1/16th or so at the front, as well as adding a bedding pad just ahead of the action/rear of the barrel. Also relieved the tang area of the stock somewhat.

All things considered, it was a hell of a lot less pain in my ass than my misadventures in Kimber Montana years ago.
 
What’s different about the gen2? Already sounds like you’re going to have to replace the bm like on the gen 1. I found an howa 243win 16” ultralite in a gun shop a few years ago and was planning on buying it but I couldn’t hardly get the mag in or out with the bolt opened and back & cycled the bolt and it felt terrible so I backed out. My 16” tikka 243win weighs 5.4lbs vs 4.18 for the howa super light. It feeds better, is smoother, has better mags, and has a better trigger and bm. As much as I’d like the weight savings of the howa the down sides are to high and some of the issues are random. Bad feeding, trigger issues, bad stock fit, need to replace bottom metal, rough bolt cycling. If they would fix the issues and charge more I would try one. But for now a tikka at roughly 1lb heavier is worth it. Gun can be had for $650, $125 for muzzle threading, and a $400 stockys stock on a deal, at $1175total. Also you can get an ultralite contour barrel like the Howas and make the tikkas even lighter. I will say quite of few ppl I know run howa’s because they got them cheap. And after they’ve had a lot of rounds on them the bolt does smooth up some. And some of the older ones have smoother cycling bolts to start with.

I don’t think it makes sense to spend the time on a Howa superlite unless you’re trying to get under 7lbs with 30 ounces of scope and suppressor. And plan to rebarrel it so something that doesn’t recoil as much as the factory chamberings.

I have one in the works right now.

It wil be getting a 16” 6dasher, 6GT or 22creed barrel. Gun should be around 6.5-6.75lbs all in, with stockys, DIP metal bottom metal, Swfa 3x9 and DD Wolfhunter.


It has only made sense to me because of getting good deals on all components. I should be into the rifle for right at 1000.00 by the time I’m done with it (no scope or suppressor). Plus it will be in the chambering and twist rate I actually want.


it’s a hard sell at full prices and factory chamberings if you ask me
 
I don’t think it makes sense to spend the time on a Howa superlite unless you’re trying to get under 7lbs with 30 ounces of scope and suppressor. And plan to rebarrel it so something that doesn’t recoil as much as the factory chamberings.

I have one in the works right now.

It wil be getting a 16” 6dasher, 6GT or 22creed barrel. Gun should be around 6.5-6.75lbs all in, with stockys, DIP metal bottom metal, Swfa 3x9 and DD Wolfhunter.


It has only made sense to me because of getting good deals on all components. I should be into the rifle for right at 1000.00 by the time I’m done with it (no scope or suppressor). Plus it will be in the chambering and twist rate I actually want.


it’s a hard sell at full prices and factory chamberings if you ask me

I see your points and any of the cartridges you listed would be great.

My tikka 243win 16” standard lite contour, Wildcat stock 19oz, with a strike eagle 1-8x24 with 3.5oz nightvision rail and 4oz seekin rings with empty mag and airlock zg 6.5 is 7.3lbs

Replace the 3.5oz night vision rail and 4oz seekins rings and add a real scope (22oz) then use Talley rings and your at 7.0lbs.

Start with a tikka superlite model and save 2-3oz more with fluting then your at 6.88lbs with a March 1.5-15x42 and suppressor with an empty mag.
 
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