Need some help

[Jaker_cc]

I just inherited from a friend of mine after he moved, a Sarrels Superstition longbow. It’s a 62” bow and the draw weight is 64# at 28”, my draw length is normally 31”. I’m trying to shoot this thing and I’m shaking like a dog trying to pass peach pits while aiming. I’m pretty sure I’m over bowed. I really like shooting but am frustrated because I’m shaking so bad and having trouble aiming. Am I better off selling this thing and finding another bow that fits me better or continuing on shooting this bow and hoping it gets better.

If selling is the best bet what’s this bow worth?

 

[Montana Slim]

Not sure what the bow is worth, but sounds like it is way too heavy... What do you usually shoot?

Say conservatively 2lbs per extra inch of draw - you are already shooting a 70lb longbow. I'm not familiar with the bow and its design, but at 62" if you are drawing 31" in actuality, there is a good chance that bow is bottoming out and you are hitting a wall and trying to hold some stupid amount of draw weight - if you can even get it to 31" proper?

I'd send it down the road, unless you have some sentimental attachment to it. Shooting it will likely just continue to frustrate you.

 

[Wrench]

You may be able to get it reduced, but #70 is a handful for anyone who doesn't throw 300 around in the gym with relative ease.

 

[Jaker_cc]

I’ve got no attachment to it at all, I don’t think I’m getting it to my draw length. My compound is 84lbs but this thing is kicking me in the teeth.

 

[Shawn Hultquist]

call bob and talk to him about the superstition. Ive had a couple of Bobs bows and they are a fine shooting bow Maybe he will let you trade it in. most of the time you can only take off about 5ive pounds which will still be too heavy starting out with.

bobby 512-940-3098

 

[sneaky]

Yeah, you are overbowed. It will take the enjoyment out of learning to shoot a trad bow if you can't come to full draw, anchor, and then execute your shot.

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[Beendare]

84# compound is holding 16# at full draw....vs about 70# as mentioned above.

Heres my cut and paste for new guys;



Two solid strategies but first; Realize that a stick bow is a much higher degree of difficulty to shoot well/consistently. Many guys think they will roll into a 50# recurve since they shoot a 70# compound...nope. You are holding +/- 14# with your compound....and not on your fingers. Its not that you can't pull a 50# stick bow...but it takes time to develop the fine motor control at the heavier weight.





So you want to start with a 30# bow to develop good form. Anyone telling you different ask to see their 30 yd groups- grin





So to the strategy;


1) you can buy a cheap starter bow and while developing form you will get a chance to try many other bows at the range, shops, and tourneys...guys are good about that. Its hard to know what you will migrate to; a ILF recurve, a short recurve like a Shrew or Bear....or one of the many variations of longbow; D shaped, R&D, etc. Typically you can off one of these Sammick Sage type bows on the classifieds for 80% of what you paid...or even find one there.





2) you can go the ILF route which is short for Intl limb fitting. There are thousands of ILF limbs in weight increments from 20# to 70# in short, med long and extra long from $60 to $1000. A guy can get a pretty darn good limb for $175 something like THIS [WNS carbon wood limbs $131 plus shipping at Alt services]





So you can start with some light cheap limbs on a cheap riser or a really nice riser like the Morrison, Stalker Stickbows, Dryad or many others...or even an Aluminum riser like the Tradtech from Lancaster, Dryad or Morrison....Those Aluminum risers are right around $450, the fancier wood risers are $500-$800 or so.





Anything ILF you can mix and match. My DL is 30 1/4" and I like a 64" recurve or 66" Longbow. I can shoot a 62 recurve well but the 64 is a little more forgiving. Many opinions of bow length for your draw...the outfit where you buy the riser will help with that. Longer is almost always more forgiving. A 17" riser and long ILF limbs makes a 62" bow 17/med=60", 17/short=58". I shoot a 19" riser with longs to get 64".





You can also get longer risers like the Olympic style shooters use; 21", 25" and even longer.





Now of course there are other strategies and guys that have started heavier.....just saying most good shooters will agree this is the easiest route for most guys.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

Dude - that’s a suuuuuper heavy bow. I’m shooting about 50# for a hunting weight bow, and that’s plenty to pull back, and I’m no slouch in the physicality department.

 

[sneaky]

I had a friend who wanted me to buy a Schafer Silvertip from him. 64#@29. I was drawing close to 70# with that bow. It would cast a heavy arrow flat and hard, but after about a dozen shots I was done. I told him I couldn't do it. I think he was bummed because he didn't sell it to someone he knew. I just like my shoulders and rotator cuffs more than I did that bow.

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[Beendare]

I hunt with right around 50#. I can shoot a 70# bow no problem.....but only a 1/2 dozen shots or so until I struggle to hold and aim at full draw.

I know guys shooting 65# bows. They typically shoot 20 shots and call it good. None of them shoot a whole field round with that bow...and very few shoot a tourney with a bow that heavy. Then the guys shooting those heavy bows tend to Grip and Rip, Fred Bear style...barely getting to their anchor and for sure not taking the time to aim.

Its different strokes and really all about what you are trying to accomplish.

_______

 

[jwal]

As others have already said, that is way to much bow for starting out. Yes, you should sell it and buy a lower poundage bow. As for what its worth, you will just have to research some of the traditional forums.