NEED HELP (beginner reloading)

[Harvey_NW]

And we cant spray one-shot indoors why?

It's actually pretty toxic if you read the MSDS.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Guess I've been livin on the edge for a while now

 

[bigunit]

You have 2x calipers on the list. Only need one. I prefer digital. Agreed you don't need the lyman brass measures. I didn't see a priming system on your list. Lee stuff is generally pretty good and serviceable but not the greatest. You don't need polishing media if you don't have a tumbler. You also don't need a primer pockets cleaner. I never clean mine.

 

[KYwhitetail606]

Thank you guys for the replies. Can’t wait to get started.

 

[wind gypsy]

And we cant spray one-shot indoors why?

Guess I've been livin on the edge for a while now

That’s a good question. That was a half thought out comment on my part. When I used one shot I put a batch of cases in loading trays on the ground and sprayed them. But I could have sprayed it in ziplocks like I do with lanolin which I didn’t consider. I’m sure I’d have used a lot less of it by spraying it in a bag vs directly on all the cases from 3 angles though. It contains a neurotoxin and it’s aerosol obviously so less than ideal to use indoors.

I have sprayed it indoors quite a few times.. I like the idea of not doing so anymore though.

 

[pertnear]

I'd like to add, if you are budget minded, here are a couple of tips.

1) I would have no qualms about buy a used single stage press. These things are indestructible & will last a lifetime.
2) I don't have experience with Lee customer service, but customer service from RCBS & Redding are stellar! As far as I can tell, Lyman doesn't believe in customer service.
3) I have a lot of die sets (30+), many bought used. Of course stay away from rusty or chewed up dies, but with a little cleaning & adjusting I have yet to get a faulty die.
4) Your press' primer seater will work just fine & get you started.
5) A can of Imperial Die Wax works great & it seem like a can lasts forever!
6) As others have said you'll need a beam scale. Add a trickler & kitchen spoon & you're set. An electronic scale is great to find out what something weighs (like a bullet). A beam scale is best when trying to bring something to a certain weight (like powder).
7) Load data is everywhere & multiple sources is a good thing to find load consensus. A single book is limiting.
8) I've had good luck with digital calipers from Amazon. Seems like they are selling the same ones reloading vendors sell after slapping their logo on it.

Just IMHO

 

[ericmcd]

I started reloading with a setup similar to what you are looking at. It's a great hobby but since nobody has said it I will. You are not going to save money, especially with the 223 and 6.5 creed. with that setup and those cartridges you most likely also won't be able to make more accurate ammunition than what you can buy from the factory. It is going to be slow reloading with the single stage setup especially if you are trickling each case to get more accurate loads. It's a great hobby and I think you'd enjoy it but you should know what you are getting into since there's a lot of misconceptions from those that don't reload that they will save money and have more accurate ammunition from common cartridges

I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just letting you know what you're getting into.

 

[Harvey_NW]

You are not going to save money, especially with the 223 and 6.5 creed. with that setup and those cartridges you most likely also won't be able to make more accurate ammunition than what you can buy from the factory.

Respectfully disagree with those 2 points, there is definitely an upfront investment that might take a long time to recoup and surpass to the point you're actually saving, but it is cheaper. And instead of buying boxes of factory ammo to test, I can load 3 at $1.03/round to test and if it shoots bad, I'm out $3.09 instead of $40 and being left with 17 rounds that shoot like crap. Also, I can usually cut dispersion and velocity spreads by ~40% based on my testing in a few different Tikka rifles.

You're probably right about .223, but from a quick calculation vs a box of Hornady 6.5 Creed at $36.95/20-

• Lapua/Alpha/Peterson LRP box of 100 - $119.99/8 reloads = $14.99/100
• Hornady 143gr ELD-X box of 100 - $39.99
• Remington 9 1/2 Large Rifle primers 1,000ct - $59.99/10 = $5.99/100
• Hodgdon H4350 1lb - $56.99 (7,000gr/42gr charge = 166 rds) = $34.33/100

Total cost + 8.2% (local) tax = $103.11/100 or $1.03/rd vs $2.00/rd of cheap Hornady factory ammo. Obviously that could fluctuate a bit based on shipping and pricing, but a lot of times you can buy a couple items at one place over $99 and get free hazmat shipping if you shop around.

So almost $100 savings every 100 rounds, seems a pretty worthy savings to me. I enjoy running that calculation every couple years to justify my own investment down the rabbit hole .

 

[S.Clancy]

Respectfully disagree with those 2 points, there is definitely an upfront investment that might take a long time to recoup and surpass to the point you're actually saving, but it is cheaper. And instead of buying boxes of factory ammo to test, I can load 3 at $1.03/round to test and if it shoots bad, I'm out $3.09 instead of $40 and being left with 17 rounds that shoot like crap. Also, I can usually cut dispersion and velocity spreads by ~40% based on my testing in a few different Tikka rifles.

You're probably right about .223, but from a quick calculation vs a box of Hornady 6.5 Creed at $36.95/20-

• Lapua/Alpha/Peterson LRP box of 100 - $119.99/8 reloads = $14.99/100
• Hornady 143gr ELD-X box of 100 - $39.99
• Remington 9 1/2 Large Rifle primers 1,000ct - $59.99/10 = $5.99/100
• Hodgdon H4350 1lb - $56.99 (7,000gr/42gr charge = 166 rds) = $34.33/100

Total cost + 8.2% (local) tax = $103.11/100 or $1.03/rd vs $2.00/rd of cheap Hornady factory ammo. Obviously that could fluctuate a bit based on shipping and pricing, but a lot of times you can buy a couple items at one place over $99 and get free hazmat shipping if you shop around.

So almost $100 savings every 100 rounds, seems a pretty worthy savings to me. I enjoy running that calculation every couple years to justify my own investment down the rabbit hole .

This is basically my justification as well. I also bought bulk Peterson SRP brass for the 6.5 and got them for 70-80$ per 100. It is definitely worth reloading to save cost, as long as you are not OCD and buy all the little knick-knack reloading things. I don't even bother cleaning my brass.

 

[wind gypsy]

I’ve bought a bunch if factory 223 and creedmoor ammo and it does come out pretty good if you value your time but factory 223 loaded long with heavies isn’t a thing and trying to get creed ammo with certain bullets and top performance is an expensive ordeal that would add up a bunch over time.

Can load $0.25 ELDs over $0.22 of powder and a $0.08 primer to shoot better than anything you can buy for 223 save maybe very expensive custom loaded ammo.

 

[Jamie930]

I started reloading with a Lee Classic cast press. The breech lock is very handy switching dies. I used Hornady lock and load as the breech lock was not around then.

You can skip the shell holders. Most dies comes with shell holders, I know Lee dies comes with shell holders

 

[Jimmy O]

Buy yourself a kit from one of the major mfg’s and don’t look back. I started years ago with a Hornady lock and load classic kit. You will figure out your “must haves” over time.