Neck vs FL sizing?

Jeff,
I learn a lot every time I read your posts. What is your opinion comparing the Redding Competition Bullet Seating Die to the Foster or other brands? Seams like there are a lot of varied opinions out there.
Thanks

I use Redding because they come in the Competition sets and I like the retractable sleeve concept. But I am sure the forester is also good as I hear good reports. One more thing about the Redding comp seater. I can and do set them up to a slight cam over at zero clearance on the Redding shell holder. This insures equal travel with each stroke and seating depth is dead nutz.

Jeff
 
Which decapping die do you guys like the best?

Which seating die?

For my 6.5-06 Ackley, I'm using the Redding FL sizing and decapping die and the Redding seating die. Am I going to make "better" loads with different dies?

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Which decapping die do you guys like the best?

Which seating die?

For my 6.5-06 Ackley, I'm using the Redding FL sizing and decapping die and the Redding seating die. Am I going to make "better" loads with different dies?

Thanks.

Justin, I use a Redding competition bushing die and it has a de-capping pin but no expander ball. I do not feel a need to expand back out as I can control the amount of sizing and not over size with a change of a neck bushing. This also applies less work hardening to the case necks and cases will last longer.

My seating die is also a Redding competition and both have micrometer adjustments on top. The other thing these two dies have is the retractable sleeve to hold the case true before and work is done. It is actually a sleeve that is a mirror of your rifle chamber inside. Once the case is in it then the entire sleeve retracts into the die keeping everything perfectly in line while necks are sized or bullets are seated.

Now, if you are using the standard $50 Redding dies then yes, you will make better ammo with these comp dies. But they are 4 times as expensive or more as they range from $200 to just over $300 depending on caliber. So the question comes down to, Do you need this for your intended purposes of that rifle. If a guy is only hunting to 400 yards and you are getting 1 moa groups from your rifle it probably is not worth it for your application. But if you wish to pursue 1/2 moa at long distances then controlled neck tension and less total run-out is a good way to start.

We also should consider the potential accuracy of your rifle as well as twist rate. If this is a custom barreled rifle capable of .5 moa or better then it is surely a good chambering for a longer distance rifle. That is if it has a twist that will stabilize a high BC offering like a 140 Berger. I like the 1 in 8 twist in a 6.5 for this, but have seen some 1 in 9's work fine.

Hope tis sheds a little light and helps you decide what you need personally for your application.

Jeff
 
The dies I'm using are the standard Redding, although they cost me almost $200.00 bucks because it's a "custom" chambering (6.5-06 Ackley).

My rifle is a custom with a 8.5 twist Brux barrel. I'm shooting the 140 Berger VLD's at 3165 fps right now and they seem to be pretty accurate.

I'm very happy so far with how it performs but I want to learn more and up my game.



 
Which decapping die do you guys like the best?

Which seating die?

For my 6.5-06 Ackley, I'm using the Redding FL sizing and decapping die and the Redding seating die. Am I going to make "better" loads with different dies?

Thanks.


I knock primers out with a RCBS universal decap die as the first step in brass prep. I like it because it keeps my sizing die and ram on my primary press clean from any primer residue. I have it screwed into an old RCBS Partner press I bought cheap at a garage sale.

I wait until I get a batch of fired brass, deprime the whole batch, clean the pockets with a uniformer, clean the necks inside and out, then run them in the tumbler before sizing.

As far as dies, you "can" make good ammo with a standard die, but you are handicapping yourself with having to use an expander. I messed around with them quite a bit before moving to a bushing die. As Jeff pointed out, a standard die squeezes the neck down a lot more than it needs to be, just so it can expand it back out with the expander...works it twice! I also found that most of the runout in my sized cases came from that last step of expanding. I tried polishing the expander, using Redding's carbide floating button (still use it on my single staged AR ammo), etc. Moving to a bushing die really opened up a new level of quality brass and EASIER sizing!

If you decap away from the sizing process, you can completely do away with the rod for the decap pin in a bushing die. The cool thing about that is if you ever accidentally stick a case in the die, you can remove the top of the die and access the case with a long punch to knock it out:-)

I researched all of this stuff much like you are doing. Try different things and learn how to measure everything you are doing to see if it works for you. There are some things we do for ELR ammo that is questionable as to whether it's worthwhile, but I have found through a lot of trial and error, that bushing dies are well worth it!

6.5s ROCK!!!!
 
If you decap away from the sizing process, you can completely do away with the rod for the decap pin in a bushing die. The cool thing about that is if you ever accidentally stick a case in the die, you can remove the top of the die and access the case with a long punch to knock it out:-)

Yes, and if you use One Shot case lube this is good to know. :D Just kidding you Sam...LOL

I do decap if cleaning and I clean every other time, but thinking I need to do it every time. Another foog thing about the Redding T-7 is you can have your decapping die right there just a click away.

Jeff
 
Justin if you are getting .25 moa groups regularly you are good to go. But if your groups vary quite a bit you might benefit from better dies.

If your die set came with a body die all you would nee to do is buy the comp neck and seating dies. In those dies the retractable sleeve is not hardened , so buy them for the 06 and have your smith ream them with the same finish reamer used to chamber your rifle.
 
Back
Top