Muzzle jump with small caliber rifle

[Lowedown]

Thank you for the tips! My barrel isnt threaded for a muzzle brake, so I am going to have to rely on good form and geometry to make this one work

Check out wittmachine.net for clamp on options. I have put 2 of these on rifles with great success! A 270 WSM and a 338WM. Both guns became much more enjoyable to shoot and flattened out alot.

 

[SDHNTR]

Thank you for the tips! My barrel isnt threaded for a muzzle brake, so I am going to have to rely on good form and geometry to make this one work

Do you have an aversion to getting it threaded?

 

[BLJ]

Check out wittmachine.net for clamp on options. I have put 2 of these on rifles with great success! A 270 WSM and a 338WM. Both guns became much more enjoyable to shoot and flattened out alot.

I had one and didn’t have the same success.
Not trying to discount @Lowedown advice or experience, but I personally wouldn’t recommend one.

Do you have an aversion to getting it threaded?

One of the clamp on brakes is probably half the price of getting it threaded.
I think this would be a better option.

 

[Eleven]

I would work on my form before I put on a muzzle device. Unless I could have a suppressor, which you’ve already stated that you can’t. Consider it a training motivation/goal to find your best form with the least amount of muzzle jump. There will be some basic physics involved that will make it a challenge with that stock (the bore line is above the top of the butt of the stock), but it is certainly reasonable to expect minimum muzzle rise with a .243 with good shooting form and that rifle. Search on here for ‘practice’ threads, look at sniper’s hide, etc. You’ve got some limitations in that you can only shoot off a bench, but look at professional bench rest shooters and their setups. You’ll see minimal if any muzzle rise.

For starters I’d look at seat height vs bench height vs rest height. Often times the setup is too low and that forces a person to setup incorrectly and this magnifies the effect of a stock that isn’t built for recoil mitigation. A higher front (and rear if you’re using one) rest can help with this.

You didn’t say this exactly, but if after the shot the scope goes up and to one side then you have a ‘weak side’ and your form is not as solid as it could be. The physics says the force of recoil will go to the place of least resistance. In this case maybe something like a torso that isn’t set up square so the stock can squirt off to one side or another. Same type of thing with the muzzle rise. Figure out how to mitigate that and you’re off to a good start.

 

[Southern Lights]

I'd stop shooting with the cross hand position under the rear of the rifle and grab the forend of the rifle if you are not doing so already.

Also, a bipod on a hard bench almost always will want to hop. The basic rule is hard on soft, soft on hard for a rifle rest. If you do hard on hard (bipod on cement bench), then it greatly accentuates muzzle jump. Maybe put a soft bag under the front if you are on a hard surface.

Muzzle brakes are miserable and will cause most people to develop a flinch from extra noise and concussion blast. It's almost impossible not to blink your eyes on a rifle with a brake so spotting impacts also is much harder.

 

[The Fat Coyote]

Do you have an aversion to getting it threaded?

Not at all! I even looked into getting a takeoff barrel from ebay that had the muzzle brake threads on it. Deer season is almost here, there is only one gunsmith near me, and he told me it would take a few months.

I would work on my form before I put on a muzzle device. Unless I could have a suppressor, which you’ve already stated that you can’t. Consider it a training motivation/goal to find your best form with the least amount of muzzle jump. There will be some basic physics involved that will make it a challenge with that stock (the bore line is above the top of the butt of the stock), but it is certainly reasonable to expect minimum muzzle rise with a .243 with good shooting form and that rifle. Search on here for ‘practice’ threads, look at sniper’s hide, etc. You’ve got some limitations in that you can only shoot off a bench, but look at professional bench rest shooters and their setups. You’ll see minimal if any muzzle rise.

For starters I’d look at seat height vs bench height vs rest height. Often times the setup is too low and that forces a person to setup incorrectly and this magnifies the effect of a stock that isn’t built for recoil mitigation. A higher front (and rear if you’re using one) rest can help with this.

You didn’t say this exactly, but if after the shot the scope goes up and to one side then you have a ‘weak side’ and your form is not as solid as it could be. The physics says the force of recoil will go to the place of least resistance. In this case maybe something like a torso that isn’t set up square so the stock can squirt off to one side or another. Same type of thing with the muzzle rise. Figure out how to mitigate that and you’re off to a good start.

Thank you for this. I totally plan to work on my form and learn how to mitigate muzzle jump that way. I might do a muzzle device in the future, but it wont be this season, so I would like to figure this out.

Attached is my adjustable butt plate custom job. please excuse my clutter.