Method for testing factory ammo in new rifle

[Deli]

After spending way too much time on this forum, I'm starting to become a believer and decided to try out the smaller caliber with a durable scope combination so I recently picked up one of the Eurooptics 6.5 creedmoor roughtech superlites with the 20 inch barrel and i just added a Maven 3x15 MIL scope with some UM tikka rings. My next step is to see what this rifle likes, but since I don't reload, I'm wondering what the recommended protocol is for checking factory ammo?

I used to just shoot cold bore 3 shot groups and pick the best one and stick with it, but I've read the threads that I should really be shooting 10 shot groups minimum and that cold bore shots aren't as big of a deal as everyone thought. Should I just buy as many different kinds as I can find that have the right bullet and just shoot 10 shot groups of each to see what groups best and not worry if the barrel gets hot? Any other recommendations?

I'll likely start with the most recommended ones; 147/140 ELDM, 143 ELDX, maybe 120 ELDM (is this too small for elk?)

I'm probably overthinking it, but looking for validation from others who have more experience while I continue to learn.

 

[TaperPin]

After spending way too much time on this forum, I'm starting to become a believer and decided to try out the smaller caliber with a durable scope combination so I recently picked up one of the Eurooptics 6.5 creedmoor roughtech superlites with the 20 inch barrel and i just added a Maven 3x15 MIL scope with some UM tikka rings. My next step is to see what this rifle likes, but since I don't reload, I'm wondering what the recommended protocol is for checking factory ammo?

I used to just shoot cold bore 3 shot groups and pick the best one and stick with it, but I've read the threads that I should really be shooting 10 shot groups minimum and that cold bore shots aren't as big of a deal as everyone thought. Should I just buy as many different kinds as I can find that have the right bullet and just shoot 10 shot groups of each to see what groups best and not worry if the barrel gets hot? Any other recommendations?

I'll likely start with the most recommended ones; 147/140 ELDM, 143 ELDX, maybe 120 ELDM (is this too small for elk?)

I'm probably overthinking it, but looking for validation from others who have more experience while I continue to learn.

Rather than blasting away with a hot barrel to get 10 shots in, it’s always made more sense to me to shot three three-shot groups, or two five-shot groups, with time to cool off inbetween and stack the targets together. The belief that barrels don’t walk as they warm up is wishful thinking and may apply to the ones with high quality steel, but most mass produced barrels are ridiculously poorly made.

If a load isn’t shooting well the first three shots, hell the first two, stop and there is no need to finish the remaining seven or eight. If comparing multiple brands of ammo I like to shoot them round robin so no one brand gets the benefit of better conditions. Literally, if one is obviously not shooting well I stop shooting it and save the remaining cartridges for foulers or offhand practice.

Having said that, there’s nothing wrong with firing large numbers of bullets down range for group. If a shooter off the bench or bipod and rear bag were to track their groups, there would be a noticeable decrease in average group size every 1000 rounds even if everything remained the same. Between understanding how to simply apply techniques better, muscle memory, and the subconscious changes shooters naturally make without knowing it’s happening, we all get better with lots of practice.

 

[Halligan]

In your position, I would start off with say 3-5 factory loads. The minimum providing you with an ample amount of shots to season/break in the barrel. Since you went tikka the breaking in part is probably less of factor, but don’t be surprised if the barrel starts to come into its own with more shots down the tube. Additionally, should be enough choice when buying quality ammo for a good barrel to find something acceptable ymmv.
Also, when it come to number of shots, I’d start with 5, then shoot 5 more at the same target. Then it’s always good to test 10 shot strings to see how the barrel reacts.
Anywho, I think your initial bullet choices are fine, just remember that part of the small cal game is erring on the side of heavy for caliber.

 

[Colby]

I would be surprised if it doesn’t shoot factory hornady (match or precision hunter) plenty good enough. I’d get a box or two of whatever is most available and go shoot it. Odds are it’ll be fine.

Edit to add,
I recently learned hornady consistency hasn’t been what it was the past few years so take my suggestion with a grain of salt.

 

[KyleR1985]

shoot a box of every ammo you might shoot, round robin.

Pick the one that kills well, and shot the smallest group.

 

[wind gypsy]

I’d get a box of 140 eld and one of 147, maybe federal/berger loadings of 135 classic hunter. If one of those doesn’t shoot well something is wrong.

 

[rookieforever33]

If the manufacture recommends any barrel break in procedure I follow it with some quality brand fmj or cheap soft point. Save a few buck and not expect much. Also during this I tweak my scope mount if needed and bring the zero close. After 40-50 rounds get serious and will round robin through multiple options I want to shoot. Overall I tend to not fully zero on one type of ammo until its getting close to a hunt. Otherwise I just shoot for groups overlaying 3-4 shot strings for a 10 shot group. Write it on the target and take pictures to track it. I never want to fall in love to the point I dont try new things. Manufactures are always coming out with new things and favorites are not always available.

 

[The Harbor Master]

Good advice above. Buy 3-5 types. Shoot 10rd-ish groups (3x3, 2x5, whatever). Choose the one that groups best and is a bullet that you trust to perform. The ones you listed are good choices, including the 120gr. Maybe try something a little heavier just for kicks, but otherwise you're on the right track.

You can shoot 10rds in a row for groups if you want to, without concern about hot barrel issues. The Tikka CHF barrel will not shift POI.

 

[Deli]

Both the 140 and 147 eldm were basically half an moa. This was the easiest gun I ever set up. Thanks for the recommendations everyone. Very impressed with the tikka/maven combo right now.


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[Castle Rock]

Rather than blasting away with a hot barrel to get 10 shots in, it’s always made more sense to me to shot three three-shot groups, or two five-shot groups, with time to cool off inbetween and stack the targets together. The belief that barrels don’t walk as they warm up

You readily admit that you don’t own any tikka rifles and have no experience with such European rifles
You are used to crappy guns that walk when they heat up, stop talking nonsense, have you bought a new rifle in the last 30 years, even Rugers will hold a decent group when hot now

 

[2ski]

You readily admit that you don’t own any tikka rifles and have no experience with such European rifles
You are used to crappy guns that walk when they heat up, stop talking nonsense, have you bought a new rifle in the last 30 years, even Rugers will hold a decent group when hot now

What's the point of a 10 shot group when determining how a gun likes a certain ammo? I mean a more real world scenario is 2 or 3 shots at an animal max. Whether a gun shifts or not when its hot, 3 shots is realistically all you need to see if a gun likes an ammo. Take the 10 shots if you're not in experiment mode. I have a Riger M77 that likes 140gr but dislikes anything else. In .270. I figured that out without taking 10 shots. Im not a hard-core gun guy so if I'm missing something I'm willing to have my mind changed.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

What's the point of a 10 shot group when determining how a gun likes a certain ammo? I mean a more real world scenario is 2 or 3 shots at an animal max. Whether a gun shifts or not when its hot, 3 shots is realistically all you need to see if a gun likes an ammo. Take the 10 shots if you're not in experiment mode. I have a Riger M77 that likes 140gr but dislikes anything else. In .270. I figured that out without taking 10 shots. Im not a hard-core gun guy so if I'm missing something I'm willing to have my mind changed.

Small sample size error. 3 shots can prove something sucks, but not that it is any good. The hornady guys cover it very well.

 

[The Harbor Master]

Shooting 3 rounds into a .5" group and calling it a half MOA gun is just like flipping a quarter 3 times, getting heads each time, and calling it a heads-only quarter.

Not enough repetitions and too small sample size to see the whole picture.

 

[Castle Rock]

Not really, the chances that it will be good is quite high, but on the other hand if it was 2 inches you don’t have a chance in hell of it being any good, small sample sizes are relevant, even if it’s just to rule something out.

 

[hiker270]

In a real world hunting situation 3 shots under MOA for me is just fine. Never in all my years of hunting has the 10th shot been needed.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

In a real world hunting situation 3 shots under MOA for me is just fine. Never in all my years of hunting has the 10th shot been needed.

It’s not about needing ten shots. It’s that three shots is not a statistically significant indicator of real performance. Taking the best three-shot group as an indicator of how well you actually shoot the rifle is foolish.

When I am testing out a new rifle, my goal is to develop real confidence in it and practice my own skills. There are no wasted shots. Wasting ammo isn’t a thing as long as you are aiming and learning from each shot.

That means bore sighting to get on paper, adjusting sights off two 25-yard shots to get in the black, and then shooting at 100 yards to get it where I want. Then I start shooting 5-shot groups at a clean target and measuring results. Ideally, that means I have 20 shots I can use as data points. Then I generally take a picture of the target and email it to myself.

This target was from a pre-season (September 2024) check with a rifle I previously considered reliable. I had put a new scope on it and sighted it in for two inches high at 100 yards in April 2024. The three shots just above the bullseye were the first three…

Needless to say, that rifle and scope combination didn’t go hunting with me last year. They sat in the safe and will stay there until I figure out the issue. Other rifles got to go hunting with me.

This rifle did make the grade. No, it’s not a “one MOA all day rifle”, but it does put 20 rounds into a nice ragged cluster.

____________________
“Keep on keepin’ on…”

 

[TNKnoxville]

I bought 8 boxes of various brands and 130 and 140 grain 6.5 cm ammo. Shot 3 3 shot groups with each box. Measured the results. Then shot 10 shot groups with the best 4 rounds. Now I'm going to get 5 boxes of the best and shoot them all summer. My Tikka actually likes every box I have! I'll be splitting hairs to pick the best. So far the Sierra TGK 130 and 140 shoot ever so slightly better groups. So it looks like the winner. This gun will be used for whitetail in TN. All the rest of the ammo will be used for practice.

 

[UKwildcatfan]

View attachment 896076
Both the 140 and 147 eldm were basically half an moa. This was the easiest gun I ever set up. Thanks for the recommendations everyone. Very impressed with the tikka/maven combo right now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahhhh. "Maven" , the official rokslide scope. Fan boys rejoice.

 

[Deli]

Ahhhh. "Maven" , the official rokslide scope. Fan boys rejoice.

I have leupold vx6 on my 300 win mag and a cheap vortex and Burris on my 30-06 and 7-08 but wanted to try something different and the price was comparable to what I wanted. Prefer the glass and locking turrets of the vx6 and the reticle (and durability???) of the maven. So far I do prefer the tikka to the brownings. The action and trigger is just better.


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[KenLee]

After spending way too much time on this forum, I'm starting to become a believer and decided to try out the smaller caliber with a durable scope combination so I recently picked up one of the Eurooptics 6.5 creedmoor roughtech superlites with the 20 inch barrel and i just added a Maven 3x15 MIL scope with some UM tikka rings. My next step is to see what this rifle likes, but since I don't reload, I'm wondering what the recommended protocol is for checking factory ammo?

I used to just shoot cold bore 3 shot groups and pick the best one and stick with it, but I've read the threads that I should really be shooting 10 shot groups minimum and that cold bore shots aren't as big of a deal as everyone thought. Should I just buy as many different kinds as I can find that have the right bullet and just shoot 10 shot groups of each to see what groups best and not worry if the barrel gets hot? Any other recommendations?

I'll likely start with the most recommended ones; 147/140 ELDM, 143 ELDX, maybe 120 ELDM (is this too small for elk?)

I'm probably overthinking it, but looking for validation from others who have more experience while I continue to learn.

Cold bore shots are the only ones I care about.
Any of the ELD rounds will kill just fine