Mechanical broadheads for elk.

[Jtelarkin08]

So I am a tinkerer and broadhead junky. In my opinion to be the absolute most deadly and accurate that you can possibly be you need to carry both mechanicals and fixed heads in the quiver. You may think thats weird but here is my reasoning.

From 0-50 yards I will always shoot the fixed blade head. At these distances it is easy to get fixed heads to fly. You may also take a more marginal shot at these distances and need the penetration. Frontal up close or slightly quartering to or away.

Past 50 yards your shot selection must be perfect. You need the animal standing still and broadside. At these distances you might also get wind drift as well as poor arrow flight due to torque or a number of other factors with the fixed head. A perfectly broadside elk with a good mechanical will have no issues. THis means hitting where your aiming is the most important thing.

That said the only mechanicals i would trust are the new rage, the 1.5 hypo rage, a 1.5 inch kill zone or a 13/8 grim reaper.

 

[bojangles808]

I know for a fact that the T3 failed. I recovered the arrow and the blades were still locked. It wasn't by chance, the blades never deployed.

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same exact thing happened with me with t3s. didnt open. i made a great shot though and deer was still dead. i swear by nap killzone trophy tips now. its a great head

 

[Jacob Chapman]

I had decent luck with mech heads but stopped using them for MANY reasons, the top 5;

1) They are harder to BH tune for perfect arrow flight. CONTRARY TO WHAT MANY THINK, just because your mech heads shoot close to your FP's, that DOESN'T mean you have perfect arrow flight [and perfect arrow flight is key to it all!]

2)The blades are cheap, weak

3) They limit my shot selection. The addl performance from a strong fixed COC head can turn a bad shot location into a killing shot. The difference is amazing almost guaranteeing 2 holes every time and they get through tough tissue to vital organs better.

4) I don't have to think about my BH at crunch time; blades opening in the quiver...or in flight, etc

5) animals shot with a mech head know they have been hit...and take off like they are on fire. On the contrary with a fixed COC head many times they have no idea what just happened. I have had much easier recoveries overall with COC heads.

Edit; To each his own...mech heads work fine in most cases........a guy just needs to understand the ins and outs of his setup.

Hey Beendare, just curious as to which fixed head you use?

 

[Jacob Chapman]

So I am a tinkerer and broadhead junky. In my opinion to be the absolute most deadly and accurate that you can possibly be you need to carry both mechanicals and fixed heads in the quiver. You may think thats weird but here is my reasoning.

From 0-50 yards I will always shoot the fixed blade head. At these distances it is easy to get fixed heads to fly. You may also take a more marginal shot at these distances and need the penetration. Frontal up close or slightly quartering to or away.

Past 50 yards your shot selection must be perfect. You need the animal standing still and broadside. At these distances you might also get wind drift as well as poor arrow flight due to torque or a number of other factors with the fixed head. A perfectly broadside elk with a good mechanical will have no issues. THis means hitting where your aiming is the most important thing.

That said the only mechanicals i would trust are the new rage, the 1.5 hypo rage, a 1.5 inch kill zone or a 13/8 grim reaper.

I know NAP makes a 1.75" cut Killzone, but they are the COC version, any way to get the trophy tip on there?

 

[colobow]

I'm shooting trophy taker shuttle t-locks(fixed) but plan on take a couple grim reapers. The purpose is in case an animal is wounded and I can't get close enough for my fixed. I'll always use the fixed for my original shot and hopefully won't need the mechanicals. Great point about the arrow flight. When I started shooting fixed it exposed my poor arrow flight and form.


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[DEHusker]

I'm curious about ram cats too. Going to try them and QAD exodus swept broad heads this year

All I use is the QAD Exodus swept wing. They are absolutely lethal. Blades are strong, they fly great, super sharp. The last 2 elk I've shot with them look like something out of a horror movie. Plus, the short blade over shaft design helps the arrow fly truer, IMO. Whatever you use, good luck. I've learned that no matter how well tuned your bow is, one must always shoot with BH's on before the season to adjust for perfect arrow flight.

 

[Beendare]

Hey Beendare, just curious as to which fixed head you use?

I think my favorite right now for the $$ is the VPA 150gr 2 and 3 blade heads as they both tune the same in my compound and recurve.

 

[Mmcan]

I know for a fact that the T3 failed. I recovered the arrow and the blades were still locked. It wasn't by chance, the blades never deployed.

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I hate this broadhead. Bought a pack. Blades were all loose and not even in the appropriate slots. Shot a hog. Yes it worked, but lost a blade that just annoyed me when I was cleaning it. No more.

 

[Coveyleader]

No experience with them, but a guy I hunt with has killed 15 + bulls with Spitfires and we've never had a issue finding his bulls. Most go down within hearing distance. He has only lost one elk, and it was due to a shoulder hit which a fixed wouldn't have done any better.

 

[getting lost]

There are a whole lot of mechanicals that don't fly like fp's. To compound the matter you cant practice w/ each one without adding some weight or changing the aerodynamics of it imo.

I like them for whitetails but I don't like shooting past 35yds at them.

 

[sneaky]

The original Tekans are light years better than the T3s. G5 was/is stupid for not making them anymore. On a side note, I've got six packs of the original Ramcat 125s if someone wants a good deal on them

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[MD Hunter]

The first and only deer I shot with a mechanical failed to open. Only one of the three blades. Granted this was almost 25 years ago when they first came out. Truthfully I don't even remember the brand or if they're even around.

I would have more confidence in the new mechanicals but Slick Tricks have always done well for me.