Mechanical broadhead for elk

Junibravo

FNG
Joined
Jul 5, 2021
Messages
35
I am going to NM for elk hunting this year.
i shoot a hoyt rx4 65# 29inch draw, with 5mm FMJ at 528g. The kinetic energy is around 77 ft-lb leaving the bow and 71 at 50 yards (my effective shooting range). I have used rage hypodermic NC broadheads for whitetail last year and have a lot of confidence in them.
i have read a lot of people saying to go with fixed broadheads, but i trust rage and have confidence that i can shoot them accurately. Should i go with what i have confidence in or is it really that important to have a fixed broadhead for elk hunting?
 

BBob

WKR
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Messages
4,596
Location
Southern AZ
You don't need a fixed blade if you don't want them. Plenty kill elk with mechanicals. I've done it for 30 years or so and I don't really have any horror stories to tell. If you are confident and shoot straight IMO you'll be fine. Not worth the hassle or stress this late in the game to switch.
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Messages
1,126
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I’ve only killed 2 elk with a bow.


Both were with slick trick mags. A little over a 500 gr arrow sent from a 70lb elite 35 @29”

One was a 40yd frontal and the arrow ended up back in the ham. 20 yds and dead bull.

2nd was a quartering to shoulder shot @ 20 yds and the broad head ended up nearly in the shank of the offside back leg. Crazy how it ended up there, stayed inside the whole way. Was dead in 20 yds. About another 20 from a private boundary…

I don’t thing you could get that kind of penetration from a rage. Especially with less than perfect broadside shots.

Calling in bugling elk, You might not have the perfect broadside double lung shot we all hope for.

Just my opinion, but fixed blades are the better option. I know piles of elk have been taken with every kind of broad head under the sun, but I have been impressed with the performance of my fix blades.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

crich

WKR
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
867
Location
AK
You'll be gtg with a well placed shot for sure. Lots of guys on the internet act like you need a 10mm and 8 spare mags to protect your family at Walmart too (chicago maybe). But... elk are tough as nails and big boned.

Let's throw a scenario out since I like to over analyze everything...

Say your elk is at 48 yards broadside and you let an arrow fly. The bad timing devil moves the elks shoulder blade into the path of your mechanical. Not only do have the shoulder to contend with but theres the velocity loss and the energy dumped into opening the head. Plus the fact that the target was moving puts a tiny bit of lateral movement into your arrow that kills even more energy. You're shooting a heavy arrow but elk are tough as shit. You'll definitely get 1 lung but will you get 2? What about a pass through? Hypodermics are wide and designed for big cuts. On an elk my main focus is trying to get 2 holes in the animal. I have a lot of confidence that my iron will is going to blow through whatever bone it hits with 515 grains behind it coming out of a 70# bow.

That said, it is late in the game and it would suck to switch up your setup now and worry about it geing gtg. In reality i think you're gtg with what you've got already but thats my .02 worth anyway. Lots of elk die from mechanicals but a coc fixed blade IMO is preferred.
 

Dennis

WKR
Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
435
Location
Colorado
People do, but I would not. I agree with Crich above and the importance of penetration on elk with a really sharp cut on contact broadheads. I realize that we are getting close to season and you have faith in the Rage as do others. Either way you go I wish you success.
 

Djacker

WKR
Joined
Aug 29, 2017
Messages
377
Location
Minnesota
I've only harvested 2 elk with a bow. Both with rage hypodermic's, both elk went less than 100 yards. You'll be fine, dont over think it.
 

Marble

WKR
Joined
May 29, 2019
Messages
3,602
I am going to NM for elk hunting this year.
i shoot a hoyt rx4 65# 29inch draw, with 5mm FMJ at 528g. The kinetic energy is around 77 ft-lb leaving the bow and 71 at 50 yards (my effective shooting range). I have used rage hypodermic NC broadheads for whitetail last year and have a lot of confidence in them.
i have read a lot of people saying to go with fixed broadheads, but i trust rage and have confidence that i can shoot them accurately. Should i go with what i have confidence in or is it really that important to have a fixed broadhead for elk hunting?

It seems like you are concerned with accurately shooting the fixed blade heads. If this is the case, then you need to figure out why. You should be able to shoot your fix blades as well as your field points within hunting ranges.

I would use a mechanical on an elk if it was a good broadside shot, but I won't choose to use them, as I want something very sharp, very tough and will not be the reason why the animal doesn't die.

Elk and whitetail are two totally different animals, body structure wise. Most shots are within 40, with even more being within 30 it seems from what most guys say.

And I don't think it would be a big deal to get a bow tuned for the broadheads at this point. Usually only takes one session, maybe two to make field points and broadheads fly together. You've got a great arrow set up, probably in 340 or 300 spine?

Best of luck in New Mexico, sounds like fun.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

bsshaver

FNG
Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Messages
60
Shot and killed with mechanical for years. BUT, I have switched to fixed, COC and heavy as I can stand. (I’m a speed freak)

The science is there. COC has less friction, significantly less chance for failure, bone penetration is superior, and the flight is not an argument any longer with a well tuned bow and reputable head.

I have argued for both, killed with both and have my favorite mechanical in my quiver. (I do like mechanicals for bear)

But at the end of the day, after decades of chasing this elusive beast, when I draw on one it will be with a heavy ass COC.

Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

wapitibob

WKR
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Messages
5,996
Location
Bend Oregon
I've killed dozens and you'll be fine. Get close enough to make a good shot and shoot enough to know it'll go where it's supposed to. Put a good braodhead into the center of the lungs and the rest will take care of itself.
One thing I would suggest is a review of anatomy, center of lungs specifically, and how the entry point changes as the animals position rotates toward or away from the shooter. Think in 3D and a line from you, thru that center point, and out the other side. You'll see how the entry needs to move forward/back as the animal turns. Also be mindful of the near side leg position. If you hit behind a leg that's back, you'll have a "perfect hit" right in the liver and a real long miserable day.
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9,806
Location
Shenandoah Valley
I have been a fan of spitfire broadheads for years, seen a right good number of elk killed with them.

I have seen exactly one killed with a Rage NC, I wouldn't recommend them at all. 30 few yards, perfectly broadside punched thru lower ribs right above the heart. Arrow didn't get a full pass, likely that part is due to the half-out bending and it could have possibly made the arrow plane going thru the cow. The blades bent back on the Rage as well. I don't find that exceptable.

IMG_20200910_161851147.jpgIMG_20200910_161901370.jpgIMG_20200910_161855850.jpgIMG_20200910_161903513.jpg

I'm not a mechanical hater, but there's a few I'm not a fan of. Mainly Rage, and I'm not a fan of them as a crutch. Don't shoot a mechanical because you can't get a fixed blade to fly, that means your setup isn't working, your arrow will be bleeding energy off trying to get straightened out.


The rage I posted pictures of did do its job, but I felt like it was as close to perfect conditions as possible and I felt like it performed sub par, and it's not all the broadheads fault. But the edge certainly didn't hold up very well either.
 

Sled

WKR
Joined
Jun 11, 2018
Messages
2,265
Location
Utah
I'm running a couple fixed blades and a couple mechanicals. Both shoots a POI for me. That gives me options.
 

Sapcut

WKR
Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Messages
961
Location
Mobile, AL
The kinetic energy is around 77 ft-lb leaving the bow and 71 at 50 yards (my effective shooting range).
Kinetic energy in predicting what really matters......arrow penetration, killing and recovering your animal..... is irrelevant. Research it.

Should i go with what i have confidence in or is it really that important to have a fixed broadhead for elk hunting?
Depends on how much you desire to increase your chances of killing and recovering. Accuracy and confidence with a fixed blade can be easily had if so desired.
 

2tall

FNG
Joined
Apr 21, 2021
Messages
14
I used to use Rage, but got tired of them opening up in my quiver. I ended up switching to a Steel Force Phat Head and love them. Very beefy blades that punch through obstacles.

Think it's more of a personal preference and what you're comfortable with.
 

Laramie

WKR
Joined
Apr 17, 2020
Messages
2,649
I am a mechanical broad head fan, even for elk. However, I am not a fan of the rage heads and elk. I recommend using a smaller cutting diameter with swept back blades if you choose mechanical for elk. I have seen complete pass throughs on several elk with these. https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...wijqcz50-fxAhUBu54KHc0xDBIQ9A56BAgBEFc&adurl=

They are cheap and flat penetrate - almost as good as a fixed blade.
 
Top