Mathews Cam Spacing/Lean

[ElfOR]

Purchased a used Mathews V3X 33 this spring, and had a new string and rest installed at a local shop. Was told the bow was good to go. I quickly noticed the upper cam was so far to the right that the switchweight mod stop was barely making contact with cable, in fact, the screw (somewhat sharp edge) is actually what is stopping the cam at this time. I'm assuming it will eventually start to cut into my cable. Anyways I have also never shot well with this bow and the shop says it's probably just my grip.

I am basically wondering why the cam needs to be that far right? it seems like its leaning badly. Also should the bottom and top cams have similar spacing?

 

[Billy Goat]

Your bottom and top cams should be shimmed in the same direction, not always the same amount tho. The amount of shimming depends on a few factors, individual limb deflection being one, shooter input another, few other things but those tend to be primary.

Most cables end up out partway off the mod, resting on the button under the bolt. I haven't seen the bolt cut serving yet, but I'm guessing it could happen.


Have you shot broadheads out if it?
Any tuning besides the shop telling you it was good to go?

 

[ElfOR]

Your bottom and top cams should be shimmed in the same direction, not always the same amount tho. The amount of shimming depends on a few factors, individual limb deflection being one, shooter input another, few other things but those tend to be primary.

Most cables end up out partway off the mod, resting on the button under the bolt. I haven't seen the bolt cut serving yet, but I'm guessing it could happen.


Have you shot broadheads out if it?
Any tuning besides the shop telling you it was good to go?

Thank you for the response! No, I have not shot broadheads.

After about 150 shots I took it back into the shop and they adjusted the timing. I shot some paper and was getting consistently bad tears. The said paper tuning isn't that important and it was probably a grip issue. Unfortunately I felt like they were just uninterested in really getting into more tuning. I've been working on grip and a relaxed shooting hand with instruction, so I personally don't think that was the only issue.


Since then shooting I hit right and only right. I've moved my sight (yes following the arrow), and still hit right to the point where I've only got a bit left on the adjustment. Very frustrating. I've been avoiding returning to the shop because I feel like a nuisance and they seem to brush off my concerns. Just looking at the cams it seems odd that it's that far over.

 

[Billy Goat]

Thank you for the response! No, I have not shot broadheads.

After about 150 shots I took it back into the shop and they adjusted the timing. I shot some paper and was getting consistently bad tears. The said paper tuning isn't that important and it was probably a grip issue. Unfortunately I felt like they were just uninterested in really getting into more tuning. I've been working on grip and a relaxed shooting hand with instruction, so I personally don't think that was the only issue.


Since then shooting I hit right and only right. I've moved my sight (yes following the arrow), and still hit right to the point where I've only got a bit left on the adjustment. Very frustrating. I've been avoiding returning to the shop because I feel like a nuisance and they seem to brush off my concerns. Just looking at the cams it seems odd that it's that far over.

Hard to tell.

There's a lot that goes into form, grip always gets blamed, but face pressure plays into it heavily too.

It's hard for a shop to spend the time it really takes, and it's unfortunate. Possibly if you can give an area someone would be familiar with a good shop in the area that would take the time to help.


With the cams sitting to the right, moving them left is going to push your arrow further right. How far is the center of the rest off of the riser of the bow currently? Should be around 13/16" for centershot.

 

[OR Archer]

I’m guessing by your handle you’re in Oregon? What shop are you using?

 

[GreggB]

Every bow that leaves my shop has been at least paper tuned . We will also go through bare shaft tuning and tuning with fixed broadheads.
Having tuned around 500 Mathews bows with tophats in my shop since their inception I have generally found them to be simple and easy to tune. If the archer can get bullet holes at 6, 12, and 18 feet then most fixed broadheads will shoot pretty close to field points with minor adjustments to get them to hit the same point. Obviously different degrees of shooter induced torque needs to be considered but generally, it can be done with virtually everyone. 13/16" centershot is ideal and only moved minute amounts to bring fixed and field points together. Cam timing along with correct nock height is essential to correct high and low nock tears. With the exception of heavily bearded shooters (string oscillation) we have yet to not be able to get good tunes with some proper coaching on grip, form and execution, correct draw length and advising against excessive draw weight. Some will say paper tuning is not enough and to some degree I do agree with that but generally a good tear through paper at various distance tells me the arrow is leaving the bow straight and will be sufficient to most hunters who rarely shoot their bows other than just before hunting season. I know that some shops in my area will never do cam timing, paper tuning or tophat adjustments and they generally have no idea how to set up a bow anyway. One local shop who thankfully shut down was mounting Whisker Biscuits to the front of the riser !

 

[MallardSX2]

Standard response from a “pro shop”.

Hope you get it figured out.

 

[ElfOR]

I am in Central Oregon. I actually have a good shop near me, they just seem to have one good tech and the other guys are hesitant to do anything.

I did shoot paper and getting a very consistent left tear. I have checked for and ruled out fletching contact, and I believe I shoot with minimal face pressure. (I am sure I can always improve on my form first, but feel like something else is going on).

My nock left tear would make sense since that top cam is all the way over right. It really seems like shimming left would help?

Thanks for all the input.

 

[OR Archer]

I am in Central Oregon. I actually have a good shop near me, they just seem to have one good tech and the other guys are hesitant to do anything.

I did shoot paper and getting a very consistent left tear. I have checked for and ruled out fletching contact, and I believe I shoot with minimal face pressure. (I am sure I can always improve on my form first, but feel like something else is going on).

My nock left tear would make sense since that top cam is all the way over right. It really seems like shimming left would help?

Thanks for all the input.

Yes shimming is the correct way to fix the issue. If they’re unwilling to do it then you need to go elsewhere. Maybe a trip over the mountain to The Bow Rack in Springfield would be in your best interest. It’s an easy fix, they just have to be willing.