If you're cutting you're arrows short, you can buy a .003 and after cutting get it close to .001 if done correctly. I have a 32" draw so I don't have that luxury and always get .001. Also, one issue I've ran into with manufacturers is weight sorting vs weight consistency. They'll sell you a dozen arrows at 350 grains plus or minus .5 grains. Later you buy the same exact arrows but in a new batch they are 360 grains plus or minus .5 grains. Aka they sorted the arrows to be close instead of having consistent manufacturing. It's frustrating because it makes you question everything and you basically have to start over with a whole new set.I agree at this point.. not seeing much of a difference between .003 and .001 'match grade' most manufacturers are offering.
This is spot on. I have a 30" draw and cut my arrows around 28.5 depending on components. I spin each arrow and determine which side has any wobble (if any) and cut from that side. If both sides wobble I cut from both, one side I cut from that or I'll even do it in smaller increments to see how much I can get out.If you're cutting you're arrows short, you can buy a .003 and after cutting get it close to .001 if done correctly. I have a 32" draw so I don't have that luxury and always get .001.
If you're cutting you're arrows short, you can buy a .003 and after cutting get it close to .001 if done correctly. I have a 32" draw so I don't have that luxury and always get .001. Also, one issue I've ran into with manufacturers is weight sorting vs weight consistency. They'll sell you a dozen arrows at 350 grains plus or minus .5 grains. Later you buy the same exact arrows but in a new batch they are 360 grains plus or minus .5 grains. Aka they sorted the arrows to be close instead of having consistent manufacturing. It's frustrating because it makes you question everything and you basically have to start over with a whole new set.