M16 Extractor in Rem 700 action

With having three firings on the brass at one dimension, then adding .004-.005 headspace could be causing some issues too I would imagine. I shouldn’t have severe primer flattening pressure with loads that prior to having the extractor put in were mild.
 
i think something else has been missed. i would start all over working up the load from scratch.

after a very very good cleaning. with particular attention paid to the throat with a cream or paste cleaner.
 
I was doing RL26/156 Berger load work up the week before I sent it in, the weather turned cold and I was going to be busy at work for a month or so so I sent it in. I doubt its a cleaning issue. Maybe it is something simple, I am by far not a pro, but give me a little credit here. This gun is not a safe queen, and has about 300 down the tube and sees lots of country during the season. I shot an Elk in December (no issues) with the rounds I shot the other day after the extractor install, all made at the same time with same lot # components etc...

I have a shoulder bump insert for my comparator tool, so its far from a true headspace measurement, but there is an increase in fired brass body measurement, from previously once fired brass to post extractor install fired brass. I will have to have the headspace measured next week, hopefully and go from there before I hit the range again.
 
if you have a piece of brass that was shot twice in the chamber prior to the bolt work and not sized you can put a piece of scotch tape on the base and see if the bolt closes. if it closes on one piece add another. two pieces should add around .008 to the length of the case. once fired will not be expanded to the chamber.

you can check the bolt nose clearance with a piece of solder. you stick a small piece of solder to the nose of the bole and close the bolt then measure the solder.

i have had the m 16 extractor added and not had a problem. i have also had a bolt opened up from .440 to .470 and they always take .008 off the bolt face when doing this. i got new brass and rolled on.
 
I measured a piece of worked brass at the shoulder from before and got 1.790. I measured a piece from the other day after the m16 and got 1.810. .020 difference. I guessing there is where my problem could be
 
I'm wondering if you got your bolt back or it possibly got swapped with a different customer. Is it stamped with the S/N from who ever originally built it? it would have been electro penciled to the body as well, but it usually wears off pretty quickly.
.020 is a ton different. When truing an action I'll only take .002-.003 off the face and lugs each so HS would only change max .006 from the bolt. Its usually less than that sometimes as little as .003 total.
 
I measured a piece of worked brass at the shoulder from before and got 1.790. I measured a piece from the other day after the m16 and got 1.810. .020 difference. I guessing there is where my problem could be

Is that .020” overall length of brass or .020” farther on the shoulder datum line you’re measuring for brass sizing?


Mike


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Using my Sinclair shoulder bump insert on my comparator is how I arrived at these measurements. So they are all relative, but I think the go gauge is 1.80 for the .284 correct and no go should be 1.815?
 
ok, try the scotch tape on a piece of factory new brass. see how many layers it takes to fit the chamber.

I guess that could offer some indication. Most factory new brass is headspaced short though. Sometimes very short. I’ve had Hornaday .020 short and Norma right on. I make a stub gauge when I chamber a barrel. There’s no variance in headspace readings that can be induced by the various comparators we buy OTC using the same reamer.
 
If I read all of the posts correctly, you now have good extraction, but flat primers and case head separation. Do you have any other signs of excess pressure like ejector marks?

Did you contact Area 419, and can you get the headspace checked?

Jeremy
 
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