Low recoil rifle for elk, deer, etc. but .270 or larger caliber

[rookieforever33]

What do you mean no aftermarket options for x-bolts? Are you sure about that or just regurgitating stuff you have heard on this site to push tikkas?

Quite the opposite. I own 2 and enjoy both. If I want to change stocks or something there are only a couple options. I have no desire to rebarrel but if I did it does not sound like I could do it at home like a tikka. I like the bolt unlock on safe option and would lose it if I change my trigger. Since I own 2 obviously I am fine with how they are. Just being honest to someone in the market for a new rifle.

 

[EastHumboldt]

I’m not a tikka fanboy. I have a REM 700, an xbolt stalker, and three tikkas in my little herd. I like the tikkas best. You don’t have to spend a bunch of money to build on one out of the box. You can hunt with them as is. The only aftermarket item I think is a must is the limbsaver pad.

Watch this video before you buy one as he does a good job of explaining pros and cons.

N

Thread 'Cliff Gray on Tikkas (and Sakos)'

Wednesday at 7:49 PM

Shoutouts to @Unknown Munitions included. Well done.

• nm.otter
• Replies: 5
• Forum: Firearms

• 

Edit: I have successfully rebarreled a tikka from 30-06 to 7-08 in my garage, and it’s a shooter. my brother killed an elk with it in November last year. If you want to spend money on prefit barrels, fancy stocks, etc etc…. You can do that. Will it improve your rifle? Sure. Will you get your moneys worth? That’s debatable. All that being said I have stockys VG on order for one of my Tikkas. I don’t need it. I want it. Important to understand the difference (unless you’re explaining it t your wife, in which case you definitely need it)

 

[Pharmseller]

7mm-08, near or far.

140 or 150 gr factory loads will get the job done.










I do not care for the recoil of the 270. Very sharp in my experience.

 

[NorthIdahoDude]

Umm, all y'all recommending a 270 - since when is a 270 less recoil than a 308?

Are there other restrictions besides bullet diameter? If not, a 6.8 SPC would git er dun for very minimal recoil. Something like a 300 HAM'R would also.

However, overall, I think a 7mm-08 or 7x57 are the best bets. (I'd do a 7mm-08 if I didn't reload, 7x57 if I did (and I do)).

 

[Marbles]

It’s a lightweight barrel without threads. I could buy an adapter or change the barrel but the action on my current rifle is junk. Struggles to cycle with anyone who has shot it

Yeah, I've never seen the point of throwing good money into a mediocre system.

As for other comments on this thread.

A stock Tikka works perfectly fine. The reason to upgrade is based on preference. Anyone who say you "need" to upgrade a Tikka is not very objective (though like in that Cliff Gray video I say that as my Tikkas have been improved on). You have the option to upgrade Tikkas, you have significantly fewer options option on X-bolts. That may change with time.

If you like a stock X-bolt, then get one.

The 6.8 Western is another post 2000 Winchester cartridge that will likely slowly die. Nor is it a cartridge for high volume training. It is the recommendation that ignores 90% of your OP.

I personally really like short barrels, and this X-bolt looks like a nice configuration and comes threaded. Fluted bolt is a negative to me (lets more junk in the action).

https://www.budsgunshop.com/product_info.php/products_id/713102441/browning+x-bolt+2+all+purpose+6.5+creedmoor+bolt+action+rifle

This Tikka comes threaded. Barrel is a touch longer than I like.

https://grabagun.com/tikka-t3x-lite-compact-6-5-creedmoor-20-barrel-3-rounds.html

Or this one gets you Cerakote (possibly over stainless) though I'm not a fan of fluted bolts.

https://www.eurooptic.com/tikka-t3x-roughtech-specter-65-creedmoor-20-1-8-bbl-firstlite-specter-camo-jrxtr

This Sako would be my choice if I wanted an out of the box rifle with no intention to modify. Sako's take Tikka barrels. Their cost is not objectively justified when compared to a base model Tikka. https://www.eurooptic.com/sako-90-a...20-bbl-rh-picatinny-black-rifle-jrs90adv382-2

If you can spend Sako money, I would say getting two Tikkas, a 223 trainer and a 6.5 creed, would be more valuable. It is slightly a pain, but using a pic rail you can swap a scope from one rifle to another pretty easily. https://www.eurooptic.com/tikka-t3x...2-x28-bbl-matte-hunter-stock-blued-3rd-ranch- if threads don't matter, you can get similar for $569.

Sell both your other two rifles to justify it.

 

[Mcsmith]

7mm-08, near or far.

140 or 150 gr factory loads will get the job done.

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I do not care for the recoil of the 270. Very sharp in my experience.

That’s some success! Would you say 7mm08 has enough of a recoil difference to buy one over a new .308?


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[Marbles]

That’s some success! Would you say 7mm08 has enough of a recoil difference to buy one over a new .308?


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For the bullet BC, yes. A 308 loaded with the same gr bullet and powder charge will have about identical recoil, but a 150 gr 7mm is a much better bullet than a 150 gr 30 cal.

120 gr is reasonable in a 7mm. It is pretty stubby in a 30 cal.

7mm 150 gr ELDX has a .289 G7 and .574 G1 BC.

308 178 gr ELDX has a .275 G7 and .547 G1 BC.

I can certainly feel a recoil difference between 95 gr and 108 gr bullets in my 243, which is a smaller weight difference.

 

[kcm2]

270 or 280. Fiberglass stock (not Kevlar) will spring a bit. Pachmyr Decelarater recoil pad or Limbsaver.

My 270, loaded with sling, is slightly over 7 lbs. Recoil is not an issue.

 

[NorthIdahoDude]

That’s some success! Would you say 7mm08 has enough of a recoil difference to buy one over a new .308?


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Having had both, yes, the 7mm-08 has less recoil. This is because it tends to burn quite a bit less powder to produce similar velocities with similar bullet weights. For example:

150 grain 308 win burns around 47 grains of a Varget/H4895/similar powder to produce 2800-something FPS. Around 16.1 lbs of recoil in a 7.5lb rifle.

140 grain 7mm-08 burns around 41 grains of a Varget/H4895/similar powder to produce 2800-something FPS. Around 13.5 lbs of recoil in the same 7.5 lb rifle.

140 grain 6.5 Creedmoor burns around 42 grains of a H4350/similar powder to produce 2750-ish FPS. Around 13.1ls of recoil in the same 7.5 lb rifle.

kwk.us has a recoil calculator you can play with to ballpark.

Factory ammo may vary from that, depending on the powder they fed any given load and how many grains it takes to make X velocity, but overall, the 7mm-08 is a LOT closer in recoil to a 6.5 creedmoor than it is a 308.

 

[Jon C]

Threat the 308 and get a suppressor. 7mm-08 tikka will kick as much in the tikka as a 308. Or buy the 270 tikka and get a can. If you don’t get a can an aftermarket stock helps the tikka a lot. My vote if you want cheap is a 6.8 western in a Winchester xpr. Recoil was less than my 308 tikka and no worse than my 7mm-08 tikka and it’s threaded

 

[JFK]

270 recoil is not “sharp.” Recoil energy is a function of muzzle velocity and bullet weight, combined with rifle weight that counteracts the rearward movement of the rifle. That’s it. Poorly designed stocks make recoil feel “sharp.” Ultra light stocks make recoil feel “sharp”. A 130gr going 3100fps, a 140gr going 3000 or a 150gr going 2900 can’t magically beat 7mag recoil. A stock that slaps you in the face can make it feel like a lot
more recoil than it is though.

 

[WyoKid]

I have a .270 and hot reloads were sharp until I changed the stock to fit me better and added a limbsaver, which made a huge difference.

 

[Mcsmith]

So let me put this differently then, I need to do a better stock if I buy a tikka or look at a rifle with a better stock to start with. The wife is on board with a decent brake or lower end can. I learned to hunt shooting 12gauge or 30-06. I can shoot something that size but I shoot better with a lower recoil. In my opinion everyone does but I know people prefer more knock down from bigger guns. If I settle on the idea that I can handle my .308 but would like better efficiency and less recoil then what would be a middle of the road caliber? Mainly for whitetail in ky but still capable out west. Rifle recommendations are appreciated too. My current .308 is out of the equation. I’ll keep it around but can’t justify any more improvements to it with the issues I’ve had.


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[nm.otter]

Factory stock with some of this looks like low hanging fruit.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

So let me put this differently then, I need to do a better stock if I buy a tikka or look at a rifle with a better stock to start with. The wife is on board with a decent brake or lower end can. I learned to hunt shooting 12gauge or 30-06. I can shoot something that size but I shoot better with a lower recoil. In my opinion everyone does but I know people prefer more knock down from bigger guns. If I settle on the idea that I can handle my .308 but would like better efficiency and less recoil then what would be a middle of the road caliber? Mainly for whitetail in ky but still capable out west. Rifle recommendations are appreciated too. My current .308 is out of the equation. I’ll keep it around but can’t justify any more improvements to it with the issues I’ve had.


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An all OEM Tikka or Sauer 100, in .243, 6.5 CM, 7mm08, or .308 would handle all your needs. Add a limb saver recoil pad if you like.

 

[cal30_sniper]

Haven’t perused 4 pages of the thread, but I read enough of the first page to know what my answer would be.

Buy a Tikka .308 with a threaded barrel. Add a Rokstok. Add a decent size FFP scope (like A Maven RS1.2 or Trijicon Credo/Tenmile). Shoot suppressed.

It will kick less than a savage .243 with an open muzzle in a factory stock. And cycle like butter. And shoot lights out.

Here’s my 20” Tikka .308. Even without the weight of an optic, it’s extremely mild recoil.


For even less recoil, try some 125gr .308 loads.

 

[Marbles]

So let me put this differently then, I need to do a better stock if I buy a tikka or look at a rifle with a better stock to start with.

Need? No. Is it nicer with a Rokstok? Yes.

You can easily and cheaply improve on the factory stock by getting a vertical grip ($40~), a limb-saver recoil bad, and building up the comb a touch (anything from vet wrap and foam, to installing an adjustable cheek riser, to using epoxy with filler to build it up).

The wife is on board with a decent brake or lower end can.

Get a can, it improves everything from 22LR and up. An AB 30 cal Warthog is a solid choice for the price.

I learned to hunt shooting 12gauge or 30-06. I can shoot something that size but I shoot better with a lower recoil. In my opinion everyone does but I know people prefer more knock down from bigger guns. If I settle on the idea that I can handle my .308 but would like better efficiency and less recoil then what would be a middle of the road caliber? Mainly for whitetail in ky but still capable out west.

I use 223 and 243, and just spun on a 6 creed. I hunt were I live and have stepped in brown bear tracks were my booted foot didn't touch the edges (small size 9 feet though). For someone not looking to reload or rebarrel, and wanting some barrel life, I think a 6.5 Creedmoor is a very solid choice. Especially suppressed, a 7mm-08 comes in a close second.

The 6s start chewing through barrels, though I prefer them.

My 308 barrel lives in a drawer and may never get spun back on an action.

While not "needed" the better external ballistics of the smaller calibers is a plus in my mind (better for the powder capacity and recoil levels we are discussing).

Also, I'm posting a lot, feel free to tell me to shut up.

 

[BigNate]

If you don't like your. 308 dump it.
The recoil issue can be tackled in several ways, and changing the cartridge likely won't solve the issue if the set-up is the same. Nothing wrong with a .308, a 7-08 won't really feel any different, nor will a 270w if the gun is set up the same.

First getting the gun in a slightly heavier format will help a lot. Make sure it has a good recoil pad.

Second, getting the muzzle blast farther away from the shooter reduces perceived recoil. If you go with a short barrel make sure it's threaded, and get a suppressor or a SME from Witt.

Finally, shooting lighter bullets. I'm not a Barnes fan but a lighter TTSX or LRX, a Hammer is also a good choice in lighter weights driven fast. Less physics working against your shoulder.