Low poundage bow with single bevel?

The resistance force a broadhead meets in penetrating is first and foremost about sharpness. So edge sharpness and retention are your priorities, followed by other considerations, broadhead size, shape, blade number, etc. Think about the added force against the bevels in soft tissues, it causes rotation over a distance, creating a "spiral cut," but that spiral is actually fairly long and gradual. With db the resistance force acting on the bevels is still there! Only it doesn't induce rotation. I've shot deer with a light trad bow and single bevels, the arrows will pass right through the thorax and deer will run 40 yards, same as db. As others have said shot placement is still crucial and the difference is probably minimal. But the single bevel argument is primarily about ability to torque and split heavy bone in big game, increasing penetration. It MIGHT make a difference on a light bow and smallish game if you hit the scapula, which seems to be the biggest barrier for bow deer hunters trying to ensure the arrow hits in front of the diaphragm. There are studies suggesting that. The other claims about spiraling wounds seem less well-tested, and none of it is truly tested in a strict scientific sense.
 
Thanks for all of your info guys! Sounds like as long as I do my part it should be a non issue.
 
SB user here. I’d assume the difference in SB vs FB is negligible. Proper tune/ flight will yield better penetration than BH profile for low poundage tradbows.
 
Thanks for all of your info guys! Sounds like as long as I do my part it should be a non issue.
One thing you get with a two blade, single bevel broadhead is a very heavy main blade, which I think is good/ important if you are going to shoot two blades. You don’t want a flimsy blade that will curl.

I had a buddy that years ago complained about that curling when he hit bone on an animal, and it cost him the critter.
 
One thing you get with a two blade, single bevel broadhead is a very heavy main blade, which I think is good/ important if you are going to shoot two blades. You don’t want a flimsy blade that will curl.

I had a buddy that years ago complained about that curling when he hit bone on an animal, and it cost him the critter.

100% agree with this.
 
Last years Mule Deer shot with a 45lbs at my 26” IMG_2761.jpegdraw GN Ghost Recurve and glue on 190 grain RMS Gear Cutthroat BH. The shot was 23 yards and the 605 grain cedar arrow passed completely through.

FWIW, I like the Cutthroat BH because it’s a good BH and easy to get extremely sharp and not because it’s a single bevel.

I believe that the lower poundage setups can be very effective but you need to be on top of your game with tuning, sharp BHs and some weight on your arrows.
 
Last years Mule Deer shot with a 45lbs at my 26” View attachment 947664draw GN Ghost Recurve and glue on 190 grain RMS Gear Cutthroat BH. The shot was 23 yards and the 605 grain cedar arrow passed completely through.

FWIW, I like the Cutthroat BH because it’s a good BH and easy to get extremely sharp and not because it’s a single bevel.

I believe that the lower poundage setups can be very effective but you need to be on top of your game with tuning, sharp BHs and some weight on your arrows.
You ever run that over a chrono? Doesn’t matter one bit, but would be eye opening for guys who think you need 180-200fps with a stick bow.

My fastest bows are in the 160s they seem like laser beams to me, other tell me they can’t believe I kill critters with an arrow that slow haha. 25 inch draw length so will never get speed, I just shoot 9-10 gpp and hunt.
 
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You ever run that over a chrono? Doesn’t matter one bit, but would be eye opening for guys who think you need 180-200fps with a stick bow.

My fastest bows are in the 160s they seem like laser beams to me, other tell me they can’t believe I kill critters with an arrow that slow haha. 25 inch draw length so will never get speed, I just shoot 9-10 gpp and hunt.
I have never chronograph it but for a 50s style recurve that’s not center shot, it just keeps on making meat.
 
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