Looking to start predator hunting

[Forestryguy]

I am planning to start predator hunting, mostly coyotes since they are the dominate predator in my area of NE Iowa. I will probably be using my AR to start with, 5.56 1:7 barrel.

My question is how accurate would a 5.56 or .223 loaded with 55gr bullet be out of a 1:7 barrel, and a 62 gr bullet out of a 1:9 barrel? How much pelt damage have people seen with a 62 or larger gr bullet?

What would be the smallest gr bullet in a .243 to minimize pelt damage, yet have less drift on windy days and be able to take longer shots in open country?

Would 4 shot, black cloud or hevi-shot waterfowl, loads be to light for shot gunning at close range (30 and less) with pattern master or extra tight chokes?

Thanks for the information ahead of time.

 

[Terrapin]

I lean towards the 243 if the ranges are going to be longer. It bucks the wind better (I use a 223 if it's less than 200 with a 52 gr BTSP). For the 243 I use a heavy jacketed bullet designed for big game. Unless you hit major bone, they expand to about the size of a quarter, and you can shoot as far as you can see.

For a shotgun you want something larger. I have used size T and #4 Buck. For the T I used steel shot, which is contrary to popular opinion. The higher velocity and hard shot tore up the hide less.

 

[Browtine]

I use a 243 exclusively for coyotes and have always shot a 58 V-max. Very rarely will I get an exit. However, if you get into the shoulder, it will be messy!

As for the shotgun, I've always shot #4 buck.

 

[Curtis C]

If you are just starting with predator hunting I wouldn't focus on saving pelts yet. Shoot the most accurate load you have for now. Coyotes are smart and quick to adapt so your first few season may not be that successful. Just get out there, learn your land, the coyotes that live there, have fun and get a few killed.

 

[Forestryguy]

Thanks for the responses. Been to busy at work to reply. I should have put that I will more than likely be hunting with a few guys that have been hunting yotes for awhile. Most of them just use the .270s that they deer and elk hunt with. One of the reasons I am looking at hunting yotes is to maybe make a few bucks to be able to fund hunting them. I have been waterfowl hunting for the last few years and have spent a considerable amount on gear. All the walk in spots that I have, have been over run by others and I can not afford to go buy a boat that is good enough to be out on the river and busting ice. I am also just trying to down size the amount of stuff that I have and getting rid of a lot of my decoys will greatly reduce the amount of stuff I have to store.

Either way, Thanks for the info. I will look at .243s with a lighter bullet.

 

[Coyote Commander]

If youre a reloader, look at the Nosler Ballistic tips in 50 and 55 grain, or the 52 grain Sierra hollow point. EXCELLENT bullets that combine anchoring potential and "fur friendliness". (FYI- Ultramax ammo now loads the Noslers in their remanufactured .223 ammo)

If you dont reload, youre kind of hobbled as most over the counter loads will be stuffed with those crappy v-max bullets. Which are horrible.


As for the shotgun, #4 buck isnt a bad choice, but I prefer 3" plated and buffered lead BB for coyotes (if you can find it anymore). Ive always had better luck with more pellets vs. bigger pellets. Whatever shot size, make sure to do your homework and pattern it. Finding the right choke/load combo will get you farther than bigger shot or fancy shot. Super tight chokes arent always the best route either. Ive found several times that my coyote loads pattern better from a modified choke than a tight tube.


If youre new to the whole thing, and want to save pelts (im guessing you'll be selling them "on the carcass" or "in the round"), id stay away from the larger calibers. Ive shot a lot of coyotes with 6mm's and they can be VERY difficult to get into the "fur friendly" column. Fur buyer will dock you big for a lot of damage on a carcass animal, and beginners have enough to learn about fur processing already without worrying about piecing one back together with a needle and thread.

 

[Forestryguy]

CC. Thanks for the information.

Part of the reason I am wanting to start coyote hunting is to also learn reloading. I will be stuck with over the counter stuff till I acquire reloading supplies. For shotgunning, I have a lot of shells left from waterfowl hunting and was going to try and use them up on coyotes instead of trying to sell them off or hanging on to them.

I will probably sell hides green. I have trapped in the past and skinned critters out, but I have only sold them green. If I hunt them out of fur season I will just be turning them in for bounty.

Thanks for the information everyone.

 

[Wapiti66]

Anything under 200yds. the 5.56 will do just fine. Anything beyond that I start to want something bigger, my 6.5 with a 95 gr. v-max. It is more than enough to handle the coyotes. My brother shoots a .243 with a v-max and together we have dumped many dogs. I disagree with CC on the "v-max is junk" comment, but that's a personal preference that changes with each persons set-up. I will say that we do our own reloading and use the v-max, so that's not the same as a factory box of course.
With that said, the calibers you are talking will all do great on dogs, and will not be your limiting factor. I'd use the gun you are most comfortable with. The biggest factor to focus on is your set up in the field. Wind is king, if it's not in your favor you better be good at running shots because that's all you will get. Next, you want to put yourself in a position that you can see good and be able to cover your backside, coyotes like sneak in from behind or the side using terrain for their advantage. The exception to this rule of course is an uneducated pup that will come running in across the open field...they learn fast or die.
Lastly.....don't waste your money on an expensive electronic caller, buy a $10 mouth call and focus on your sets in the field. Your call is not important.

 

[Forestryguy]

Anyone have any advice about the twist rates? I was doing more reading the other night and realized the only reason for 1:7 barrels was to stabilize tracer rounds in 5.56. I would like to keep the 16" barrel profile for this rifle. Would a 1:9 work for 55-62 gr in 5.56/.223 or would a 1:8 be a better compromise. I am guessing that the chamber is not a Wylde.

Some have said that I should just focus on getting out to hunt. I realize that is the best way to learn how to hunt coyotes, but I am just a stickler to do things the best that I can and pay to much attention to the small details.

 

[KMD]

My .223 AR was a 1:8, and it shot everything from 50gr Vmax to 75gr BTHPs very well.

Zero dead on @ 200yds, and you'll be 'hold dead on fur' to 250yds.
Most misses are HIGH, don't overestimate yardage!

Keep the wind in your face.
Don't give up too much ground gettin' to your stand location!
Get comfy and SIT STILL on stand!
Call less, watch more!
If they're there, they heard ya the first time.

If you have to re-position to get a shot, wait until mr. coyote is moving, too.
DO NOT MOVE when they ain't moving, unless you're fixin' to shoot right away!

If mr. coyote stops facing you, be patient & let it keep coming.
If it turns & stops broadside, SHOOT as soon as you're steady!
(that's body language telling you "I ain't coming any closer")

Shoot straight, and HAVE FUN!!!

 

[kcboswell]

Have shot them with .22-250 45 grain JHP and had some go clean through and others leave a big exit hole. Have shot some under thirty yards with OO buckshot 3/4" 12 gauge Fiochi shells. All of these were case skinned and hung on walls with the wounds non visible. Don't know how this would affect them on the fur market but if your just trying to hang them on the wall my advice would be put them on the ground and worry about covering up the hole later