Looking for Advice for Indoor Shooting.

Graf228

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May 25, 2020
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29
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Texas
Morning all,

I come back to you guys with another question. I am looking to get into indoor target archery, I live 10 minutes down to road from an archery academy and thought "Well why not?" My goal here is to be able to sling arrows and to overall become a better archer for hunting applications and possibly pursue the indoor competitive scene for fun. What are some of the "must haves" for indoor? I'm running my bowhunting set up for now while I research gear and I see that indoor set ups run fatter arrows. I'm having a very hard time finding fatter arrows that work in my set up. (26in DL, 60lb DW) Also, aside from arrows, would a scope be a worthy investment right off the bat with magnification?

Any and all input and information would be really greatly appreciated. Also, if there is a better place to post this. Please let me know and I will move it.
Thank you!
 

OR Archer

WKR
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
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Mesa,AZ
I’ll say the target archery rabbit hole is twice as deep and twice as wide as the bow hunting side. IF you’re really wanting to do it I would suggest setting up a dedicated target rig. Switching between arrows and sights and rest on a single bow is a big PIA. I would also suggest to get a good quality coach. I would also suggest learning to shoot a hinge release. I’ve seen plenty of people in your position develop target panic using thumb or index releases while target shooting this format.
Now for some quality components I’d suggest Hamskea rests, Axcel sights, Truball and B3 releases. Lots of good stabilizers out there. I like the Shrewd back bar mount.
Do your research. You’ll end up trying a lot of items and not like them until you find the right combination for you. Good luck!
 
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Graf228

Graf228

FNG
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
29
Location
Texas
I’ll say the target archery rabbit hole is twice as deep and twice as wide as the bow hunting side. IF you’re really wanting to do it I would suggest setting up a dedicated target rig. Switching between arrows and sights and rest on a single bow is a big PIA. I would also suggest to get a good quality coach. I would also suggest learning to shoot a hinge release. I’ve seen plenty of people in your position develop target panic using thumb or index releases while target shooting this format.
Now for some quality components I’d suggest Hamskea rests, Axcel sights, Truball and B3 releases. Lots of good stabilizers out there. I like the Shrewd back bar mount.
Do your research. You’ll end up trying a lot of items and not like them until you find the right combination for you. Good luck!
I plan on making my current bow my target set up as I plan on getting a VXR before next hunting season as well as this bow I have currently can get me in the door of indoor for the time being. I've got a QAD drop away right now that I'm happy with, Release is a TruFire Synapse, so I might look into a hinge at some point in the near future. a side bar is something I totally forgot about and will look into and already my head is spinning with the different options of scopes and side bars. Ha! I will absolutely look into getting a coach if this is something that I choose to really dive into. Hell, Even just a single lesson will be better than going into it blind.

Thank you for the information, This gives me a good idea on a gameplan for the future.
 

big44a4

WKR
Joined
Jul 4, 2017
Messages
643
Personally I don’t think a scope with magnification is that important but you can get a shrewd nomad or others setup fairly affordable if only needing the scope. For me I like to shoot a large dot but you could easily cut one out of tape and put on the top of your pin to keep current scope setup. I think that would be better than going straight to magnification. I shoot a dot large enough to cover most of the white or yellow (5 spot vs Vegas face).

Stabilizers you’ll have to play around with but most people are fine with 30”/12 or 15 on the back. You’ll start with little to no weight and add weight as you get more comfortable with overall weight of setup. I like the bowfinger mount for my back bar.

Like you said I’d go the fat arrow dedicated indoor arrow route first. Could even shoot 23s so you could crossover to some 3D. Even then some still shoot 26/27 series arrows for 3D so it wouldn’t an issue if shooting known.

The other difference for me between hunting and target bows is I like to shoot my target bow with a lower letoff. Usually holding weight 16-18# is where I like to be and anywhere 50-60# so don’t get too fatigued shooting that many arrows.


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Graf228

Graf228

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Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
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Location
Texas
Personally I don’t think a scope with magnification is that important but you can get a shrewd nomad or others setup fairly affordable if only needing the scope. For me I like to shoot a large dot but you could easily cut one out of tape and put on the top of your pin to keep current scope setup. I think that would be better than going straight to magnification. I shoot a dot large enough to cover most of the white or yellow (5 spot vs Vegas face).

Stabilizers you’ll have to play around with but most people are fine with 30”/12 or 15 on the back. You’ll start with little to no weight and add weight as you get more comfortable with overall weight of setup. I like the bowfinger mount for my back bar.

Like you said I’d go the fat arrow dedicated indoor arrow route first. Could even shoot 23s so you could crossover to some 3D. Even then some still shoot 26/27 series arrows for 3D so it wouldn’t an issue if shooting known.

The other difference for me between hunting and target bows is I like to shoot my target bow with a lower letoff. Usually holding weight 16-18# is where I like to be and anywhere 50-60# so don’t get too fatigued shooting that many arrows.


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I think I'm going to get half a dozen of the Carbon Express X-buster shafts to try out in the beginning. They are cheaper and I can fit them into my set up with shaft and point weight. .360 diameter at 29in 400 spine and a 200gr tip puts me at slightly stiff on Archers Advantage. I think that is a good starting point for my indoor beginning.
 
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Target indoor is a rabbit hole. Find where you want to go.


I shoot 23's with a hunter setup.

Best advice I can offer is drop your poundage way down. It's a different game, a mental game.

Shooting 5-spot fitta or 3 spot Vegas "nfaa"?

3 spot you need larger diameter, but different sanctions have different max id.
 
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Graf228

Graf228

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Texas
Target indoor is a rabbit hole. Find where you want to go.


I shoot 23's with a hunter setup.

Best advice I can offer is drop your poundage way down. It's a different game, a mental game.

Shooting 5-spot fitta or 3 spot Vegas "nfaa"?

3 spot you need larger diameter, but different sanctions have different max id.
I’m going to drop my poundage down, that’s been the general consensus talking to a few people on indoor target, Id like to shoot the Vegas 3 spot too
 
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Graf228

Graf228

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Vegas is a game for fat arrows. You're likely to want some 27's.
Should I pick up 27’s even if they are way over spined? I’m having a difficult time finding arrow shafts that I can get spined correctly
 

307

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Most people dont feel that spine stiffness is as important in an indoor paper bow. Most 27s are super stiff due to their diameter.
 
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27s are acceptable in 3D too, correct? I had thought about cutting some Gold Tip 30X’s down to my typical length to use indoor and 3D. They my be more forgiving if left long (assuming they’re straight enough) and the extra 3-4 inches/27-35 grains won’t make enough of a speed difference.


@StraightWayOutdoors
Straight Way Outdoors, Fulcrum Archery, Elite Archery, Upwind Odor Elimination, Wicked Twisted Bowstrings
 

big44a4

WKR
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Messages
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27s are acceptable in 3D too, correct? I had thought about cutting some Gold Tip 30X’s down to my typical length to use indoor and 3D. They my be more forgiving if left long (assuming they’re straight enough) and the extra 3-4 inches/27-35 grains won’t make enough of a speed difference.


@StraightWayOutdoors
Straight Way Outdoors, Fulcrum Archery, Elite Archery, Upwind Odor Elimination, Wicked Twisted Bowstrings

Depends what 3D class and what organization is putting on the shoot. Most hunter classes are max 23 last I knew, but if you are shooting local events I don’t think would be an issue.


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Different groups have different sanctions. If you want to shoot open you can shoot 27's usually. It will just depend on what class you will want to shoot, and what organization. Generally an area will fall under either IBO rules or ASA, kinda whichever is bigger in that area.
 
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Graf228

Graf228

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Leave them full length and use a heavy point.

I have shot arrows way too stiff, they don't shoot bad. Just generally not forgiving.
Gotcha! I’ll leave them full length then and throw a heavy tip on them
 
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Graf228

Graf228

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This. I shoot full length 300 spine with 200gr. No issues at 60#/29.25” DL. Tuned easy and fly true.


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Awesome, looks like this is the route I’ll end up taking!
 
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Just as advice getting into it, if you don't know exactly what direction you are going yet. Look at Easton aluminum arrows. They are cheap and consistent. Either the x27's, x23's, or the eclipse series. I wouldn't use them for 3d, but they are hard to beat for an indoor arrow. You can order them individually from Lancaster and just get a half dozen for now, assuming you can Fletch them up yourself, hot glue tips in. I think Lancaster will cut them to length for you. I'm sure other places will offer the same service.
 
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Graf228

Graf228

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Texas
Just as advice getting into it, if you don't know exactly what direction you are going yet. Look at Easton aluminum arrows. They are cheap and consistent. Either the x27's, x23's, or the eclipse series. I wouldn't use them for 3d, but they are hard to beat for an indoor arrow. You can order them individually from Lancaster and just get a half dozen for now, assuming you can Fletch them up yourself, hot glue tips in. I think Lancaster will cut them to length for you. I'm sure other places will offer the same service.
Now that I know I can keep the shaft the stock length I'll probably go the aluminum route to get into it since it's around $5 a shaft vs $8.50 (clearance) carbon shafts. I do believe that I am getting a Bitzenburger for Christmas so I should be set when it comes to fletching and assembling arrows come the first of the year. Thank you for all the help and advice!
 
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