Load development technique

SDHunter44

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
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*Apologize for the repost, accidentally put this in the long range shooting forum just above this one by accident.*

I’m just getting into reloading, I have a 280 ai that I’d like to do some load development for, my question is where is the best place to start, do you start by trying different bullets, and then once you find which one the gun shoots well start testing different powder weights? This is 90% long range hunting rifle no competition shooting or anything like that, if that’s the case do you just pick the bullet that best fits the game your targeting and as long as they don’t shoot like crap go straight to load testing?

Another 280 ai specific question, I did pick up some 280 Remington ammo since 280 ai is hard to find at the moment. Is fire formed brass less ideal or is it a non factor?

Also any recommendations on a reloading supplies store that’s a on stop shop for all things powder primer and bullets? Veteran discount would be a bonus as well.
 
If you wanna just shoot long distance pick a high bc bullet. Make sure your twist is correct for the weight. Pick a powder. Do some research. You’ll likely find several examples of the bullet weight you wanna use and various powders that work. Either pick what you might have on hand, but that repeated is worth hunting for. Brass doesn’t have to be complicated, but it needs to be prepped. The more uniform you can make it all the better off you’ll be. Fireforming isn’t anything new. You might get different results from 280 brass to what is fireformed. Just know that going in.
 
At the moment a one stop shop is unlikely. Search for the powder you want. It's unlikely that store will also have the bullets and primers you need. At the moment you have to shop around
 
What worked for me was:
1) select the bullet based on your intended purpose. Do some research on different bullets. Some are easier to develop loads with than others.
2) select 2-3 different / proven powders for your cartridge / bullet / barrel twist / etc.
3) select brass & primers. Don't go cheap. Buy the best available. You may need to try a couple different brands of primers to get optimum performance.
4) Now you can get into your loading process and loading equipment.

Good luck finding components. It has been extremely tough for a while now.
 
pick an appropriate bullet (appropriate performance, appropriate for your twist rate)
use an appropriate powder
use good brass
use good dies
shoot some groups with some different powder weights

Something should work. If it doesn't work you're doing something wrong or you should change bullets.
 
Buy a selection of different brands of bullets in the weight you want to shoot and see which your barrel prefers.
accuracy is more important than the newest greatest bullet design if you are shooting at longer distance.
boat tails won’t be any more accurate than flat based spitzers until you get way out there.
shorter range then the old round nose bullet stills works as always.
 
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pick an appropriate bullet (appropriate performance, appropriate for your twist rate)
use an appropriate powder
use good brass
use good dies
shoot some groups with some different powder weights

Something should work. If it doesn't work you're doing something wrong or you should change bullets.
This ^ but test some seating depths too, certain combos can be a little more finicky than others.
 
I had a 280ai custom and it loved 58.8 grains of rl26 with Berger 168 vld bullets. 1 hole groups .
 
I had a 280ai custom and it loved 58.8 grains of rl26 with Berger 168 vld bullets. 1 hole groups .
What barrel length and twist do you have? I’m trying to find some rl26 but I think that’s going to take some time.
 
Mine was a 1-9 and 25” long. I sold it due to it being to heavy. But that beast would drive bullets in the same hole. H4831sc is also great with 140 and 160 accubonds. 58-59 gr with the 160’s 61 gr with the 140’s
 
My experience says that bullets and powder are the big ones. Pick a couple of each and try them together. Maybe you can shave off fractions of MOA by playing with powder charge, primers, and seating depth, but its dust in the wind.
 
I can't believe you got rid of it. You could have won money shooting competition with it.
 
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