Little Crow Gunworks Annealer

[bowrunner81]

I bought two of these annealing mandrels to try in an effort to not buy an annealing machine for $31 so I figured it was worth a shot. One is a creedmoor mandrel and the other is for a SUM case. I tried one in a 6.5 cm on some crappy Hornady brass and I cant seem to figure out how long to torch them. I watched videos on what to look for and I dont know if its my color blindness, but I am not seeing the flame change colors to yellow. Is there anyone who has messed with this that knows approximate times the case neck and shoulder should be in the flame? I did see where you want the "point of the flame" to be at the intersection of the neck and shoulder.

Any annealing tips would be appreciated.

 

[jzeblaz]

Are you using something like this? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100735354 When I tried annealing with a torch, I used that stuff to see the temp change.

 

[Sdvldog1371]

Don't look for the flame to change, look for the brass to change color.
Your torch should have an outer "cone" and an inner "cone" to the flame. Just make sure the torch is roaring and the inner cone has a nice sharp pointed appearance. Aim it at where the bottom of the case neck meets the shoulder, turn off the lights, as soon as the brass looks dark red it's done. You don't want it to glow, you don't want it to turn orange. Dark red and quench it. Quenching doesn't do anything for the metallurgy, it just prevents radiating heat further down where you don't want it. If you're color blind to red...get a handicapable friend to help you figure out the time.

 

[bowrunner81]

Don't look for the flame to change, look for the brass to change color.
Your torch should have an outer "cone" and an inner "cone" to the flame. Just make sure the torch is roaring and the inner cone has a nice sharp pointed appearance. Aim it at where the bottom of the case neck meets the shoulder, turn off the lights, as soon as the brass looks dark red it's done. You don't want it to glow, you don't want it to turn orange. Dark red and quench it. Quenching doesn't do anything for the metallurgy, it just prevents radiating heat further down where you don't want it. If you're color blind to red...get a handicapable friend to help you figure out the time.

Ok that is helpful. I was thinking it was the flame that changed. The video that little crow did wasnt super helpful. I will give that another try. Thanks

 

[bowrunner81]

Are you using something like this? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100735354 When I tried annealing with a torch, I used that stuff to see the temp change.

I cant seem to find some of that in stock. The 750 is the stuff to use right? EDIT: i see the 399 C is the same temp. Maybe I was looking at it the whole time.

 

[Jebel]

Don't look for the flame to change, look for the brass to change color.
Your torch should have an outer "cone" and an inner "cone" to the flame. Just make sure the torch is roaring and the inner cone has a nice sharp pointed appearance. Aim it at where the bottom of the case neck meets the shoulder, turn off the lights, as soon as the brass looks dark red it's done. You don't want it to glow, you don't want it to turn orange. Dark red and quench it. Quenching doesn't do anything for the metallurgy, it just prevents radiating heat further down where you don't want it. If you're color blind to red...get a handicapable friend to help you figure out the time.

I second this - dull glow of the case neck (though I’d say quenching isn’t necessary as brass cools out of the danger zone super fast). And I’d suggest not using the Tempilaq to judge appropriate heat, just the glow. If you’d like, get 450 degree Tempilaq and paint a strip down the side all the way to the base, just to settle any concerns the base might be getting too much heat. Once you prove to yourself you’re not causing harm, stop using it.

You’ll know you annealed with enough heat when sizing the brass and necks becomes much easier and consistent. If you’re still finding somewhat inconsistent bounce back when sizing, that indicates under annealing and you need to lean a tad heavier into that dull glow of the case.

Experiment with a few cases. You’ll get it quickly.

 

[bowrunner81]

I second this - dull glow of the case neck (though I’d say quenching isn’t necessary as brass cools out of the danger zone super fast). And I’d suggest not using the Tempilaq to judge appropriate heat, just the glow. If you’d like, get 450 degree Tempilaq and paint a strip down the side all the way to the base, just to settle any concerns the base might be getting too much heat. Once you prove to yourself you’re not causing harm, stop using it.

You’ll know you annealed with enough heat when sizing the brass and necks becomes much easier and consistent. If you’re still finding somewhat inconsistent bounce back when sizing, that indicates under annealing and you need to lean a tad heavier into that dull glow of the case.

Experiment with a few cases. You’ll get it quickly.

Awesome. Thanks for the info. I’ll give it another go in a couple days.