Lightweight Custom Action Options (6mm CM, HNT26 build)

I realize this is a stupid question but I am fairly new to this: Which tikka action(s) could I start with and turn into a 6CM rifle?
Any caliber with the 308 bolt face so 6.5cm, 308, 243, ect. The tikka action is the same for a 223-300wm. They just change the bolt, magazine, and bolt stop.
 
Doesn't look like these include the rail, is that not as big a deal as I think it is? I was of the opinion that it is nice to have the rail built in for keeping zero, repeatability, etc.
I have many non integral railed actions, it's not a problem.

Tikka doesn't have integral anything and everyone here raves about them. Tikkas a solid action, they work all the time, they're smooth. I have a few, not my preference tho. I venture to say 95% of the people who speak of possible rem700 clone failures, or have made the jump to Tikka cuz "it'll never fail", never had a rem700 clone or trigger fail them. I've put nearly 20k rds down range since I started shooting tactical field/prs matches, many different 700 clones and trigger combos in all weather conditions, even to -12° for a January match, I've had 2 failures to fire, because I forgot to put powder in the cases, no trigger failures, nothing, maybe I'm just lucky. If I have a failure, I'll be going to a Blaser R8, mauser m25 or any near coming straight pull bolt, not Tikkas.

Until then I'll keep shooting my lone peak, arc, zermatt, defiance, and bat actions.

If you want a completely integral lightweight action, the bat bumblebee is, IMHO, the best, but it's flat bottom, it'd be a challenge to get into a Hnt26, however Bullet Central has xlr magnesium 4.0 chassis for it.

Impact nbk isn't a light action, anything 30+ oz shouldn't even be in the discussion. Short action Vesper is 26oz, light-ish. The bumblebee is 23oz, getting lighter here. The three acrions I originally listed are all 22oz or less with rail, that's light(mack bros element falls in line here too).
 
Technically it has a proprietary rail that the UM and Sportsmatch rings are designed to clamp directly onto
Technically yes they have a dove tail. You get 2 choices, one of which has been tough to get lately I believe(sportsmatch). Plus they are imported from EU correct? The UM rings are the only logical(to me) option I'd consider(and I have them). I used A419 Tikka Pic rails on 5 tikkas with zero problems as well. They were epoxied on and loctite the screws.
 
I bought a new Tikka in 270 last winter and just spun on a new 6 Creed barrel. Pretty easy process and I have been using the standard LA mags with no issues.
 
Technically yes they have a dove tail. You get 2 choices, one of which has been tough to get lately I believe(sportsmatch). Plus they are imported from EU correct? The UM rings are the only logical(to me) option I'd consider(and I have them). I used A419 Tikka Pic rails on 5 tikkas with zero problems as well. They were epoxied on and loctite the screws.

3 choices actually. The Spuhr tikka mount, which is an amazing piece of kit that doesn't get much love from the tikka crowd here. Ive taken mine off, had the barrel threaded, put back on and not had to re-zero the rifle.
 
I’d go with the tikka and a not stupid light barrel. And if 6 creed is it I would buy two blanks and have them chambered from a good smith back to back so you can use brass for both.

You’re approaching stupid light territory which is cool in theory but not the easiest to shoot. The below setup is a dasher with ACE sp3 contour. I wouldn’t want any lighter.

Plus just using that tikka donor you got is going to save you 1500 bucks. That’s 8lbs of powder, 300 pieces of brass, a brick of primers and a thousand bullets. Even got some leftover for dies.

Don’t skimp on a smith or a barrel blank.
IMG_1868.jpeg
 
If you own a tikka or can get a deal on one it's not a bad option but no way would I buy one at full price to build off the action. I love tikkas for what they are but I'll take a custom action any day over a tikka to start a build. Kelblys atlas lites can be had for around $900. The long action with a rail and lug is 28 oz, the short action is 25 oz. Amazing actions and even better people, their customer service is on another level.
 
I’m building an 18” version of yours. Doing a defiance anti-x, proof Sendero, HNT 26, and trigger tech special.
 
Doesn't look like these include the rail, is that not as big a deal as I think it is? I was of the opinion that it is nice to have the rail built in for keeping zero, repeatability, etc.

Integral rails are nice but if a guy wants really light, i'd feel pretty good about a pic rail epoxied/bedded/bonded to the action which is an easy DIY task.

I've mostly built off tikkas lately and they are a nice ecosystem to be in. Pre-fitable, significantly cheaper than a custom action + trigger, reliable, etc. But I do like a nice custom action primarily because they seem to show pressure less and have lighter bolt lift.
 
Integral rails are nice but if a guy wants really light, i'd feel pretty good about a pic rail epoxied/bedded/bonded to the action which is an easy DIY task.

I've mostly built off tikkas lately and they are a nice ecosystem to be in. Pre-fitable, significantly cheaper than a custom action + trigger, reliable, etc. But I do like a nice custom action primarily because they seem to show pressure less and have lighter bolt lift.
What do you like to use to bond a rail to the action?
 
What do you like to use to bond a rail to the action?

I've used loctite 380 as outlined here:

And JB Weld as shown here:

Loctite is a little less involved but i do like the JB weld if there is any question about the rail being stress free bedded to the action. I had a gen 1 seekins havak and seekins' rail didn't fit the stock that well so in that case bedding with jb weld or epoxy is preferable.
 
I did a mack brothers element with their one piece scope mount (3.25 ounces), in a MDT26. Fits a 50MM objective scope.

Otherwise the Falkor are really nice.
 
I think most of these actions will work.

Pick one then focus on the most important.

The barrel and who’s cutting it.

That’s what makes the difference between a mediocre rifle and a hammer.
 
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