last night i tied my first d-loop and learned something in the process.

[tipsntails7]

ANY change to make to any string/cable/draw stop etc. has an effect on the dl. Cable twisting to advance/retard a cam does not change things as much... but it does.

Every bow and cable/cam system tunes a little differently. Generally I shoot about 150 arrows to shoot in the strings and cables before I even mess with anything. Then I time and sync the cams by twisting the cables, I typically let a few twists out of the string before I do this. I them use the string to get the ATA back to spec. At this point, I check my dl, if it is close I begin the tuning process. Essentially I get everything shot in and set to specs/timed/synced before I begin tuning. Next I use paper/walkback/French/bareshaft/bh tuning depending on what bow I am setting up. Most of the time, new bows only take a small amount of goofing with them to get them perfect... and typically not perfectly on spec.

I then twist the string to adjust the DL and play with weights/balance and tiller to get the hold right.

I wish there was a one size fits all approach, but I find any hard and fast rule doesn't really apply with tuning... its a dynamic process.

Joe

This is very good advice. Especially shooting your strings in. A lot of guys set bows up right out of the box, then wonder why the peep has moved, valley has changed and things like that.But all bows are different, I would say get a press and start playing around with your bow, put a couple twists in one cable, see what it does, undo that and go to the other. On and on until you get a road map of sorts of what does what on your bow. It really is the only way to learn.

 

[wapitibob]

OR, I know the process you're going thru. The Berger button hole in the riser has no relation to anything on the bow. Generally positioned to provide enough height for vane clearance. My suggestion, if you have time this winter, is to forget that hole exists and set your loop for the best hold and then move the rest for your tune.

To expand on Rolo's "draw length for different applications", if you shoot flat ground, which most do, not much reason to change anything. If you shoot safari or field shoots out west, my suggestion would be to check your hold when aiming uphill and shorten the draw to get the best hold in that "application". You're stretched out aiming uphill and shortened when aiming down. Setting the draw for uphill will get you a steady hold there, locked in nice on flat ground and a little scrunched up on the down hill stuff. Down hill will take care of itself and getting rid of the bow arm bouncing on the up hills will get you a cpl more points.

 

[tipsntails7]

SS I now understand what you are saying, and can agree with you although I'm surprised your dl can change almost an inch. Fine tuning a bow to your liking is done by people who have shot ALOT and have the necessary form to do so, my sweet spot is in between 28-28.5 depending on certain things. But if someone asks I just say 28. Because even different strings on the same bow can cause a tiny DL change, grip change, shoulder inj etc. I just see to many guys drop the length of the d-loop and extend they're DL to "gain speed".

 

[Rolo]

The first time we started shooting loops, back in the 70's, we set the D loop's position on the string relative to the grip pressure point, found thru aiming. Then set the rest for nock point. Neither the loop nor tied in nock sets move to set the "nock point".

It's one of the first things I do today when setting a bow up. It's amazing what effect a loop height change (or even the use of a P-loop) can have on aiming...which is a direct result of the grip pressure, and angle of the pressure that is being applied because of the loop location.

 

[Rolo]

SS I now understand what you are saying, and can agree with you although I'm surprised your dl can change almost an inch. Fine tuning a bow to your liking is done by people who have shot ALOT and have the necessary form to do so, my sweet spot is in between 28-28.5 depending on certain things. But if someone asks I just say 28. Because even different strings on the same bow can cause a tiny DL change, grip change, shoulder inj etc. I just see to many guys drop the length of the d-loop and extend they're DL to "gain speed".

Once you get past the micro analysis of what a Bow's DL is, and understand everything else that factors into the equation, and shoot a bunch of different bow configurations at different venues, its fairly easy to understand...

 

[Rolo]

To expand on Rolo's "draw length for different applications", if you shoot flat ground, which most do, not much reason to change anything. If you shoot safari or field shoots out west, my suggestion would be to check your hold when aiming uphill and shorten the draw to get the best hold in that "application". You're stretched out aiming uphill and shortened when aiming down. Setting the draw for uphill will get you a steady hold there, locked in nice on flat ground and a little scrunched up on the down hill stuff. Down hill will take care of itself and getting rid of the bow arm bouncing on the up hills will get you a cpl more points.

My only 'disagreement' is that I have been known to vary the DL slightly for indoor, depending on the target face, and usually always done with the string. If I do this, for NFAA 5 spots, the DL is a twist or 2 longer. Bigger float, but I'm aiming at a bigger spot. For a Vegas face, it's a twist or 2 shorter. Tightens up the float for the smaller spot, but also has the potential for a big miss erratically, especially if I get lazy.

 

[wapitibob]

I concur. I just didn't mention indoors.
How you hold the release is another thing often overlooked.

 

[Rolo]

I concur. I just didn't mention indoors.
How you hold the release is another thing often overlooked.

Throw in the release arm elbow and shoulder positioning, and we're working on a quad-fecta. And a hyper technical discussion.

 

[OR Archer]

OR, I know the process you're going thru. The Berger button hole in the riser has no relation to anything on the bow. Generally positioned to provide enough height for vane clearance. My suggestion, if you have time this winter, is to forget that hole exists and set your loop for the best hold and then move the rest for your tune.

I totally agree with you Bob on the berger hole. Why I do it this way is to do exactly as you said. Maximize my clearance not only for vanes but my broadheads as well.

 

[OR Archer]

I concur. I just didn't mention indoors.

You still shoot indoors barefoot? haha

 

[wapitibob]

yep