KRG bravo tikka t3x mounting issue.

id450

WKR
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So this KRG Bravo came today and was going to excitedly hit the range tomorrow. For some reason it will not sit in there. I tried calling KRG but they want you to email instead of simply taking to a person at 2 on weekday. Anyway the recoil lug recess on the barrel is larger than the recoil lug by a few thousands so I do not think that’s the issue. The action and barrel just teeter-totters around the recoil lug and front action screw area. Box says it’s the correct chassis. Any ideas? I did remove the plate on the trigger per the instructions. Also, in the pictures I’m holding baggies of what i believe is the new rear action screw, what is the other baggy for? Last, does the barrel sit in the bed line that , noting over it at all all appears in their stock photos . It feels like I have the wrong stock .
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The Guide

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I have one in the box and haven't put a rifle into it yet as I'm waiting on my go/no go gauges to come in. Hopefully someone will have some info to help you soon.

Jay
 

The Guide

WKR
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Yes, per the instructions. I have a email to KRG. It’s gotta be the wrong one I’m guessing .


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Based on your post I went and pulled my chassis out of the box. I just installed a Bravo on my Ruger American Ranch rifle on Friday so I think I know what the issue is based on my experience with that rifle. The front action screw is captured by the front grip and the front grip does not allow the front action screw to go down far enough to allow the action to seat into the recoil lug without screwing it in. What I did on the other Bravo was remove the front grip cover (remove the 6(six) 5mm cap screws using a 3mm hex wrench), and take the cover off, this allowed me to remove the front actions screw and seat the action then attach the front and rear action screws into the action.

Try taking the front cover off (it is still pretty tight after you take the 6 screws out) and seat the action with the front action screw fully removed from the chassis. I think this is your current issue.

Jay
 
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You have to start your front action screw before you push it down into the chassis. Otherwise it won't seat down on the recoil lug.
 
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id450

WKR
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Jun 18, 2014
Messages
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You have to start your front action screw before you push it down into the chassis. Otherwise it won't seat down on the recoil lug.

I did that, the screw barley grabs and I was able to thread it hoping that would settle the lug. Did not make any difference. Does the forend look to big for the barrel? Compared to yours. I’m more convinced it’s the wrong stock. That lug recess and lug measure to fit .


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id450

WKR
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Messages
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Based on your post I went and pulled my chassis out of the box. I just installed a Bravo on my Ruger American Ranch rifle on Friday so I think I know what the issue is based on my experience with that rifle. The front action screw is captured by the front grip and the front grip does not allow the front action screw to go down far enough to allow the action to seat into the recoil lug without screwing it in. What I did on the other Bravo was remove the front grip cover (remove the 6(six) 5mm cap screws using a 3mm hex wrench), and take the cover off, this allowed me to remove the front actions screw and seat the action then attach the front and rear action screws into the action.

Try taking the front cover off (it is still pretty tight after you take the 6 screws out) and seat the action with the front action screw fully removed from the chassis. I think this is your current issue.

Jay

Grabbing a cup of joe and Heading to the bench now, thank you


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You have to start your front action screw before you push it down into the chassis. Otherwise it won't seat down on the recoil lug.

DO NOT ******* DO THIS.

If you use the front action screw to pull the action down onto the lug you can and will damage the action, lug, or both. Don't force anything together, ever. That's how you **** shit up.

First make sure that the edge of the recoil lug or the recess in the action doesn't have a burr or a rolled edge from doing just thisl

The recoil lugs can be tight to seat sometimes even with a few thousands clearance if it's not perfectly square there will be a pressure point which will prevent it from seating. Even if it seats there will be a pressure point which defeats the point of stress free bedding.

I would recommend painting the bottom of the in and around with recoil lug area with a paint pen or something else thats a very thin coat, quick drying, and removable with acetone/alcohol. Carefully align and install the action into the chassis and put minimal pressure on it and make sure the barrel nor rear of the action are pointing up or down. You need to do this carefully for the recoil lug to properly mar up the paint to see where your issue is. Do this several times touching up the areas of contact with paint and cleaning the recoil lug each time to verify you're getting a consistent result to rule out any error of it not being seated down in the action straight.

Cross your fingers that it's the rear of the recoil lug that's contacting and causing the issue as this is a best case scenario as the front of the recoil lug and action even contact is most important. Then very very carefully with a fine jewelers file or 600grit sandpaper on a perfectly flat surface sand/file the RECOIL LUG in small increments until it properly fits. Do not under any cirumstances Then clean everything up and assemble.

It also wouldn't be a bad idea to bed just the recoil lug area to square everything up.

Or just return the thing to KRG and let them deal with exchanging a new one since your factory rifle thats a drop in fit doesn't drop in. It wouldn't be a bad idea to do the paint pen method even if returning just so you can confirm to them if the recoil lug isn't square.
 
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id450

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Messages
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DO NOT ******* DO THIS.

If you use the front action screw to pull the action down onto the lug you can and will damage the action, lug, or both. Don't force anything together, ever. That's how you **** shit up.

First make sure that the edge of the recoil lug or the recess in the action doesn't have a burr or a rolled edge from doing just thisl

The recoil lugs can be tight to seat sometimes even with a few thousands clearance if it's not perfectly square there will be a pressure point which will prevent it from seating. Even if it seats there will be a pressure point which defeats the point of stress free bedding.

I would recommend painting the bottom of the in and around with recoil lug area with a paint pen or something else thats a very thin coat, quick drying, and removable with acetone/alcohol. Carefully align and install the action into the chassis and put minimal pressure on it and make sure the barrel nor rear of the action are pointing up or down. You need to do this carefully for the recoil lug to properly mar up the paint to see where your issue is. Do this several times touching up the areas of contact with paint and cleaning the recoil lug each time to verify you're getting a consistent result to rule out any error of it not being seated down in the action straight.

Cross your fingers that it's the rear of the recoil lug that's contacting and causing the issue as this is a best case scenario as the front of the recoil lug and action even contact is most important. Then very very carefully with a fine jewelers file or 600grit sandpaper on a perfectly flat surface sand/file the RECOIL LUG in small increments until it properly fits. Do not under any cirumstances Then clean everything up and assemble.

It also wouldn't be a bad idea to bed just the recoil lug area to square everything up.

Or just return the thing to KRG and let them deal with exchanging a new one since your factory rifle thats a drop in fit doesn't drop in. It wouldn't be a bad idea to do the paint pen method even if returning just so you can confirm to them if the recoil lug isn't square.

Ok, that all makes sense. Maybe I’ll just hold off until the email Cs gets back to me . Thank you
Can Anyone conform the two little baggies I’m holding in the pictures?


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DO NOT ******* DO THIS.

If you use the front action screw to pull the action down onto the lug you can and will damage the action, lug, or both. Don't force anything together, ever. That's how you **** shit up.

First make sure that the edge of the recoil lug or the recess in the action doesn't have a burr or a rolled edge from doing just thisl

The recoil lugs can be tight to seat sometimes even with a few thousands clearance if it's not perfectly square there will be a pressure point which will prevent it from seating. Even if it seats there will be a pressure point which defeats the point of stress free bedding.

I would recommend painting the bottom of the in and around with recoil lug area with a paint pen or something else thats a very thin coat, quick drying, and removable with acetone/alcohol. Carefully align and install the action into the chassis and put minimal pressure on it and make sure the barrel nor rear of the action are pointing up or down. You need to do this carefully for the recoil lug to properly mar up the paint to see where your issue is. Do this several times touching up the areas of contact with paint and cleaning the recoil lug each time to verify you're getting a consistent result to rule out any error of it not being seated down in the action straight.

Cross your fingers that it's the rear of the recoil lug that's contacting and causing the issue as this is a best case scenario as the front of the recoil lug and action even contact is most important. Then very very carefully with a fine jewelers file or 600grit sandpaper on a perfectly flat surface sand/file the RECOIL LUG in small increments until it properly fits. Do not under any cirumstances Then clean everything up and assemble.

It also wouldn't be a bad idea to bed just the recoil lug area to square everything up.

Or just return the thing to KRG and let them deal with exchanging a new one since your factory rifle thats a drop in fit doesn't drop in. It wouldn't be a bad idea to do the paint pen method even if returning just so you can confirm to them if the recoil lug isn't square.
Have you ever installed a tikka action in a krg bravo? You are making it way to difficult. It's really simple and you wont damage anything, if you take your time. You dont pull the action onto the recoil lug. You are starting the action screw, because the action won't seat correctly, if you don't. The front screw is captured in the chassis, unless you take it completely apart.
 
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The parts in the bags have nothing to do with why your action isn't seating down on the recoil lug. That is first and foremost in the installation process before needing any hardware.

If you have a very good camera and a camera phone that takes 4K macro photos if you take some shots at different angles of the front and rear of the recoil lug and the recess in the action and upload them I could probably examine them and tell you if you've rolled an edge or not.

I cannot stress enough how important it is to never force anything together on a firearm. A loose sloppy fit is better than forced fit. If it doesn't go together you go to the drawing board and figure out why or if it's not in your wheel house you take it to someone that can. Don't caveman that shit.
 
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Have you ever installed a tikka action in a krg bravo? You are making it way to difficult. It's really simple and you wont damage anything, if you take your time. You dont pull the action onto the recoil lug. You are starting the action screw, because the action won't seat correctly, if you don't. The front screw is captured in the chassis, unless you take it completely apart.

I have, several times. I've installed Tikka actions into all sorts of stocks and chassis, the recoil lug is the same and the basic theory is the same. You should not install any action screws until the action is fully seated into the stock/chassis with any action, PERIOD.

The action screw isn't even captured in the recoil lug or recess so you're not actually doing anything to help with alignment other then being tempted to run the action screw down to pull it into place when it doesn't fit together properly. Pulling the polymer to first seat the action is the correct way to install the chassis.
 

The Guide

WKR
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Ok, that all makes sense. Maybe I’ll just hold off until the email Cs gets back to me . Thank you
Can Anyone conform the two little baggies I’m holding in the pictures?


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The same bags came stapled to my picatinny rail bag. Take the front grip cover off and pull your front action screw out. This will allow you to seat your action without any screws. If it seats into the recoil lug and your tang seats, you know the action screw standoff is what your issue was and you can then put your action screws in. If it won't seat into the recoil lug and action cut out with no action screws in place, then you will have more info to give KRG. FYI, it took me several days to get a return email from KRG.

Jay
 
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Messages
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The same bags came stapled to my picatinny rail bag. Take the front grip cover off and pull your front action screw out. This will allow you to seat your action without any screws. If it seats into the recoil lug and your tang seats, you know the action screw standoff is what your issue was and you can then put your action screws in. If it won't seat into the recoil lug and action cut out with no action screws in place, then you will have more info to give KRG. FYI, it took me several days to get a return email from KRG.

Jay
This was what I was trying to say. Nailed it.
 
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id450

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Messages
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The same bags came stapled to my picatinny rail bag. Take the front grip cover off and pull your front action screw out. This will allow you to seat your action without any screws. If it seats into the recoil lug and your tang seats, you know the action screw standoff is what your issue was and you can then put your action screws in. If it won't seat into the recoil lug and action cut out with no action screws in place, then you will have more info to give KRG. FYI, it took me several days to get a return email from KRG.

Jay

Ok, I like that idea, it not forcing anything . Email Cs , lame.


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Go to walmart, staples, or office depot and get a black paint pen for a few bucks and you'll figure it out in a matter of 15 minutes or so. Then you'll have that information to either give to KRG or decide if you want to fit it yourself. You also need to confirm you haven't rolled the edges from trying to force it in, if there was a fitment issue and it was forced and an edge rolled it's only worse now and that has to be corrected too. That's fairly simple to do with a $20 jewelers file set from amazon which is handy to have if you put your own stuff together and have a basic sense of what you're doing.
 
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id450

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UPDATE- I got ahold of David at KRG. He was super cool and even took his tilka apart to replicate my issue. He had me remove the bottom forend section and that allowed me good
Access the the front action screw. I was able to get it seated and bump the lug into its nesting spot. I tried this before with the for-end arched and it felt forced. So it all torqued down and bolt cycles no problem. Thanks everyone for jumping in a d brig so helpful. Also, the stock barrel does look goofy with the gap but is normal. , the stock is designed to accommodate up to a 1 inch barrel.


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The Guide

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UPDATE- I got ahold of David at KRG. He was super cool and even took his tilka apart to replicate my issue. He had me remove the bottom forend section and that allowed me good
Access the the front action screw. I was able to get it seated and bump the lug into its nesting spot. I tried this before with the for-end arched and it felt forced. So it all torqued down and bolt cycles no problem. Thanks everyone for jumping in a d brig so helpful. Also, the stock barrel does look goofy with the gap but is normal. , the stock is designed to accommodate up to a 1 inch barrel.


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Told ya it was easy... Glad you got it fixed. Now go shoot it!

Jay
 
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