KRG Bravo Opinions

Thanks! Do you have any velocity figures for when the barrel was longer?

And I'm curious about the 143s running slower than the 147s ... Frank has often recommended running 130 to 139 for increase in velocity, although that's in a comp shooting context.
Thanks for the photos in your previous post, btw.

No data before the chop, unfortunately. I too found that interesting and have wanted to re-test on a different chrono in different conditions but haven’t gotten around to it yet. If anyone else has chronod both loads I’d be curious to see what their data says. Oh, I don’t think I mentioned but those are factory loaded 143s and 147s.
 
Thanks for the photos in your previous post, btw.

No data before the chop, unfortunately. I too found that interesting and have wanted to re-test on a different chrono in different conditions but haven’t gotten around to it yet. If anyone else has chronod both loads I’d be curious to see what their data says. Oh, I don’t think I mentioned but those are factory loaded 143s and 147s.
When I was shooting factory Hornady, it wasn’t uncommon to see some pretty big swings lot to lot, could be you got a warmer lot of one, and slower of another. When I’m talking big swings, 100+ fps, shot the same day, same gun over a lab radar that hasn’t appeared to be giving me any wild numbers
 
When I was shooting factory Hornady, it wasn’t uncommon to see some pretty big swings lot to lot, could be you got a warmer lot of one, and slower of another. When I’m talking big swings, 100+ fps, shot the same day, same gun over a lab radar that hasn’t appeared to be giving me any wild numbers
That does not instill a lot of confidence. Thanks for the heads up.
 
When I was shooting factory Hornady, it wasn’t uncommon to see some pretty big swings lot to lot, could be you got a warmer lot of one, and slower of another. When I’m talking big swings, 100+ fps, shot the same day, same gun over a lab radar that hasn’t appeared to be giving me any wild numbers
Hmmm .... good to know!
 
@Formidilosus so where is the weight better spent for improving lethality on a do it all Western rifle, upgrading from the t3x factory stock to the krg bravo or from the swfa 3-9 to a minox zp5 thlr?
 
For those of you with a T3X in KRG Bravo, do you use the mags with the restrictor plate? The KRG website (photo) says it “should” work w/o the plate. This is my first foray into AICS mags and I don’t want to make a mistake considering how expensive they are. A04EF4D0-FF17-408F-BE3E-704CD00B4216.jpeg
 
When I was shooting factory Hornady, it wasn’t uncommon to see some pretty big swings lot to lot, could be you got a warmer lot of one, and slower of another. When I’m talking big swings, 100+ fps, shot the same day, same gun over a lab radar that hasn’t appeared to be giving me any wild numbers
When you were shooting factory Hornady (6.5cm, specifically) was it with AICS mags? If so, did you use the mags with or without the restrictor plates?
 
For those of you with a T3X in KRG Bravo, do you use the mags with the restrictor plate? The KRG website (photo) says it “should” work w/o the plate. This is my first foray into AICS mags and I don’t want to make a mistake considering how expensive they are. View attachment 390870
Both will work for a Tikka.

Phil from Modern Day Sniper mentioned that those without binder plate feed better in Tikkas but thus far I haven't had any issues with the two binder plate mags I have in my 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka.

Binder plates are required for some 700 pattern receivers so if you want interchangeable mags then that might be helpful to know. Otherwise if it's just Tikka then I would go without binder plates.
 
No reason for a restrictor plate mag in a tikka.

All aics mags Iv used and am using in a tikka action are non restrictor plate mags

Both will work for a Tikka.

Phil from Modern Day Sniper mentioned that those without binder plate feed better in Tikkas but thus far I haven't had any issues with the two binder plate mags I have in my 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka.

Binder plates are required for some 700 pattern receivers so if you want interchangeable mags then that might be helpful to know. Otherwise if it's just Tikka then I would go without binder plates.
Great, thank you gentlemen. That was the last piece of the puzzle, I'll be placing an order today!
 
And for the ounce-counters among us, my matching Accurate Mags have a difference of a full 32 grams, or 1.13 oz between the mag with a binder plate, and the one without.

If you're going to be carrying two or three mags in a field comp, or hunting for back-up/redundancy, if that's weight you don't need, then it's an easy way to save some weight.

And if the quantum of weight seems small, it's a percentage difference of a 15% increase to go to the binder plate option ... apply that process across all gear, and a 15% weight difference on a full pack is pretty noticeable.

(And of course, you can always go to reliable plastic AICS-pattern mags for even more savings; the above is with metal mags, and was just for sake of comparing the difference the binder plate makes.)
 
Another tip, take that plastic piece off the mag latch so your not retracing your steps looking for your mag.
Have to admit it has happened to me through brush. Luckily a buddy was behind me and noticed.

I no longer have that plastic piece installed as I'm not worried about mag changes for hunting purposes.
 
Another tip, take that plastic piece off the mag latch so your not retracing your steps looking for your mag.
Do you mean the metal spring clip that's screwed to the front of the trigger (as in KRG's instructions)? Or something else?
 
View attachment 392245New T3X Stainless Lite Veil in 6.5 PRC dressed up in KRG Bravo.

Weighs 9.8 lbs as shown (minus bipod). A little heavier than I had hoped.
Bjorn: How did you raise your buttpad?

Did you just re-screw it as @PNWGATOR mentioned earlier in the thread?

I might have really just missed something, or perhaps they've changed the internal design of the buttstock, but I couldn't see somewhere to re-screw it ... at least, with a quick glace before it went off to a gunsmith.

However, I did have a moment of minor genius, and realised that if you *flip the buttpad upside down*, then the screw holes line up perfectly to raise it automatically.

You then end up with a narrow buttpad at the top, and the wider section to spread the weight out more over the pec, just as Frank Galli does:


So flipping the buttpad on the KRG Bravo gives you both a raised buttpad, and a reoriented one that some of us find better for recoil, all in one go - and you still get to use the exisiting screws and screw holes.

Means you get a small hole in the buttstock, but I'm going to just plug it with silicone.

Will post pics when it's back from the gunsmith.
 
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