Knife Sharpening Techniques

[sdsliberty]

As I try to improve my sharpening I'd like to have some general discussion. I have no problem achieving a ridiculously sharp and very durable blade with my Lansky system, but it is very time consumers and inefficient. Hoping to hone my technique into a faster method.

This is what I have for anyone looking to get started that you will get amazing results from. Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone kit plus the extra course diamond hone and the Super Sapphire hone. The biggest time waste for me is that with the Lansky clamp you always get a slightly different angle depending on exactly where you clamp onto the blade and I need to reset the bevel to that clamp angle every time. The clamp and rod setup also makes doing long knives challenging and sometimes impossible.

I start by resetting the bevel with the extra course diamond hone, this is by far the most time consuming. Making sure to sharping into the blade I do not count strokes, I sharpen each side until there is a uniform lip created on the other side, then switch to the other side and do the same. Before moving to the next stone I'll stroke a few quick times on either side to remove the lip. I'll follow the same procedure with the remaining 5 stones (probably overkill) but it only takes a few minutes per stone after setting the initial angle with the extra course diamond. If the hones are taking off quite a bit of material I'll add a few drops of oil on them, rub it around with my finger, and then remove by patting a lint free cloth or rag to remove any of the material.

I'm really considering getting bench stones and trying my hand at holding the angle myself. Does anyone have any advice on products or techniques that they would like to share?

 

[tdot]

I was taught to sharpen chisels and tools with a standard push technique. Used that for years. Bought a few Japanese kitchen blades and in the process learned about using a technique of pulling the blade across the stone. Creating a tiny burr and then removing it from the other side. Its extremely effective and fast. Similar to a stroke that you would make on a strop.

Look it up on YouTube, etc. There are a ton of different variations and teaching techniques. Watch a few and pick which one works for you.

Tips that helped me. Get a softer water stone, they give you more feel. I can now feel if I am fully on the bevel or have the wrong angle and only sharpening a small portion of it.

Get good quality water stones. Not cheap, but no need for stupid expensive either. They really do last a very long time.

Since you already have stones. I would simply start with a 1000 and 4000 or 2000 to 5000. Those two stones will get you practicing and seeing if you like it. Use your low grit Lansky to set a bevel and repair chips, etc.

I now go 2000, 5000, 8000 and then a diamond coated leather strop. The strop is kept at my kitchen counter and used to touch up blades through out the day and is really just a polish and to remove the tiny burr that is created while using the knives. It doesnt remove as large a burr as a steel can, but I dont like steel's as I find they work harden the edge and ultimately lead to more work... I have used ceramic hones with success, but since it is a different motion, I try not to use them as i generally end up with a different bevel angle. I try to resharpen before I need to drop below 2000, I find it removes too much metal and in the end it takes alot more time.

Also, my next 2000 grit wont be a soaking stone. Itll be a splash and go. I hate needing to sharpen and having to wait for the stone to soak, before I can start. I dont mind the other stones as they can soak while I'm working with the first stone

 

[SDHNTR]

Get a Worksharp. Brainless and most effective tool when you have to re establish a bevel. Then progressively go finer with your belts to hone. It has a guard that keeps a consistent angle for the bevel. Then in the field, a flip handle Jewellstick diamond hone is a wonderful tool. Few strokes and it’s shaving again.

 

[nodakian]

+1 on the Worksharp. I’ve used Lansky, water stones, oil stones, steels, ceramic rods, etc. I will never use anything but Worksharp again. It even works to extend the life of Havalon blades.

 

[Lawnboi]

I gave up on systems for the same reason you mention. Long setup time, different angles... was just a pain. I have access to a fancy wicked edge machine with all the attachments to make a mirror and perfect edge, it just takes too damn long.

I have gone to a good 2 piece system that works for all my knives, regardless of edge geometry.

I start with a stone. This stone does it all. https://www.dlttrading.com/fallkniven-dc521-benchstone

Then I finish it on a strop with 1000-8000 grit compound.


It just takes practice. Same thing involved as with the systems. Make sure you use the stone till your edge is forming a burr and then move to the strops or sandpaper.

I can pull out my stone and 4 sided strop and have my knife from dull to shaving in 10 minutes.

 

[gregory r]

I have a kme sharpener, basically a Lansky. Also have the Spyderco Sharpmaker. The only time I use the kme is if the knife needs re-beveled, or has chips in the edge. If you don't let your knife get extremely dull, the Spyderco system is quick, and foolproof. One other tip, if you dont have a strop, take an old piece of denim and stretch it over a small board, and strop with it. I have several strops, but mostly just use the denim. It takes a sharp edge to the sticky sharp level!

 

[sdsliberty]

The Workshop looks fun, but I don't like the idea of pushing on one side and pulling on the other. Is there enough room to work the blade on both sides of the edge from the pushing side of the belt?

I really like the idea of pushing with stones and then finishing by pulling with strops, I'll have to look into the pulling, I just can't imagine that it would be more durable than pushing with the way the metal would shape.

 

[KoolBreeze]

Get a Worksharp. Brainless and most effective tool when you have to re establish a bevel. Then progressively go finer with your belts to hone. It has a guard that keeps a consistent angle for the bevel. Then in the field, a flip handle Jewellstick diamond hone is a wonderful tool. Few strokes and it’s shaving again.

^^^^^ This. I love mine. I use to spend a lot of time sharpening knives but finally come to the conclusion that it was not worth the effort to me. Bought a Worksharp and have not looked back. 2 or 3 minutes and it's shaving. That's sharp enough for me. I even sharpen my high dollar Benchmade and Misono knives with it.

 

[KoolBreeze]

The Workshop looks fun, but I don't like the idea of pushing on one side and pulling on the other. Is there enough room to work the blade on both sides of the edge from the pushing side of the belt?

I have not tried it but you could probably clamp the trigger down with tape, a rubber band, zip tie or something and turn it around to where you could pull both sides of the edge through the same side of the Worksharp. Or if you're ambidextrous do it also. Mine is the Ken Onion edition and it has an adjustable trigger stop that lets you set how fast the belt spins, which is very handy. I'm not sure if the other versions do that or not.

There is also EdgePro, if they are still around, that works similar to the Lansky. I've almost bought one of them a few times but never did.

 

[Gunnersdad49]

I have an edge pro and a work sharp. The edge pro is for my “good” knives that I don’t mind spending time on. The work sharp is for fillet knives that the work sharp flexes too much, and for the lady’s kitchen knives that she constantly fills like it is her favorite pastime.

I took 5 kitchen knives from “tomato smashing dull” to “oh shit sharp” in under 15 minutes with the Ken onion worksharp.

 

[nodakian]

You can switch directions on the Worksharp and the trigger can be left on so you don’t have to hold it full time.

It’s only drawback is that if you run it one direction it doesn’t get the back half inch or so of the blade.

 

[StopMakingSense]

Just throwing in the Wicked Edge system, similar to the Lansky. It definitely has it's time and place. I use a digital inclinometer on both sides of the stones to get my 20-degree bevel when the knife is in the clamp. It comes out perfect every time. I step from 100/200/400/600/800/1000 stone then to a leather strop with 5 microns down to 3.5 microns for the mirror. My starting stone just depends on if it's a small touch up, I'll go to 800 or setting a new bevel at 100. The biggest thing I found when getting my knife to what I consider perfect condition was ensuring through a jewelers loupe that when I stepped a stone all the previous striations on the edge had been ground away. I know then I can move up.

Field use though, I have my knives sharpened at home and perfectly set by the Wicked Edge. If I have time between hunts I'll touch it up quick with a few strokes on both sides with the 800/1000 unless it's chipped.

But for field use, I just move to a 600/1200 double-sided DMT. It helps keep a hair cutting edge whenever I touch up. I mean even last night I took one of my butcher knives that I hadn't touched up in a bit and just ran the stone for a bit and it when back to hair cutting edge in no time. https://www.amazon.com/DMT-FWEF-Diafold-Sharpener-Extra-Fine/dp/B00004WFTV/

My home kitchen knives are so damn expensive they don't see anything but the Wicked Edge.

I guess that's all the difference though, I enjoy the process of using the Wicked Edge and seeing the final product. Could I just use a WorkSharp or the double-sided stone I like and get within 97%? Yep, I sure could. Opposite reason why I don't reload my own brass, I just don't care for the process.

 

[Krieg Hetzen]

Another vote for work sharp. Has a 20 degree guide on each end and each side (coarse and fine). It makes sharpening almost mindless. I used it for establishing an edge on a torn up hatchet as well as touch ups on some things I have with A2 steel and making my pocket knife shaving sharp. It’s their small field sharpener but I’ve done up to 9” kitchen knives with it no issue. I have a water stone for when I need things ultra sharp (broadheads). Steel choice determines how long it takes. My bark river needs way more love once it’s actually dull (A2 steel) than my benchmade pocket knife (N680).

 

[mtwarden]

mousepad with different grits of sandpaper (courser if dull, finer if sharper)- finish with a strop

cheap, effective and non-time consuming

 

[*zap*]

 

[JC Steel]

Plus 1 for the work sharp. Just too easy and effective on everything!

 

[Lanser1999]

Good info

 

[Clifford]

One day maybe I’ll try the work sharp or edge pro system but around 5 years ago I bought DMT flat stones and a spyderco UF ceramic. Sharpening by hand does take some time and I’m sure my bevels aren’t perfect, but I can touch up my daily use knives in 10 minutes. Carrying a truly sharp knife is a beautiful thing and I get some enjoyment from doing it on stones by hand. It’s really not as hard as you’d think to get a better than factory edge.

 

[Boydo]

Lansky, has served me well for many years.

 

[DBuck]

Didn’t read all the comments but in a pinch rolling down your window on your vehicle. Leave a few inches up (5 or 6”) and take couples passes with your knife on top of the window. Will help for a fine edge. Don’t think it’d help a coarse edge. Ps I don’t drive Cadillacs