Knife Sharpening Advice

[HighVoltageHunter]

I have a Esse Izula Stainless Steel (440c) and a Leatherman Wingman (also stainless steel).

My question is, what is a good sharpening kit to buy for a beginner to sharpen the above knives?

I was looking at the Lanski 5 stone deluxe kit (LKCLX).
Would you recommend it or another kit?

Thanks for your help

 

[Napperm4]

Nothing wrong with the Lansky. I started on one of those too.

Now I prefer the worksharp guided sharpener. Field or regular, they’re both great.

Easy to use, clear instructions and it will help give you a feel of holding an angle etc should you choose to move to stones or stropping with harder steels down the road

 

[muddydogs]

Block of wood. 400, 800, 1000, 2000 wet dry sandpaper and a piece of leather for a strop. I purchased a leather strop glued to a wood block that's about 2 inches wide and 6 inches long that I cut the sandpaper to fit then hold the paper on the block with a ranger band. With a very dull or damaged edge start with the 400 grit, if the blade is mostly sharp start with the 800 grit then move through the grits. Finish the edge on the leather strop. Cheap, effective and works better then most other sharpening systems.

 

[boom]

I started with a Spyderco Sharpmaker. It works wonders keeping a knife sharp. If it gets too dull, it’s not that great. In the field my Accusharp still blows my mind.

That 440 steel is pretty easy to sharpen.

I think the Lansky is a great option. I want one for a coated blade I own. I get a little wild with the water stones sometimes.

 

[BRTreedogs]

Lansky system with the diamond hones.

 

[HighVoltageHunter]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback

 

[mcseal2]

I use the Sypderco Sharpmaker at home and keep the edge good on knives.

In my pack the only thing I carry is the ceramic rod from a cabelas ceramic steel I had. The wood handle came off in Alaska when it stayed wet for to long. We didn't need anything but that to keep the edges good through two moose on the 3 knives we used. We had an Outdoor Edge flip & zip also we used on a lot of hide cuts that hunt. That ceramic rod isn't necessary to maintain a knife made with good steel on smaller animals, but it's 1.2oz and keeps the knife shaving sharp through a whole animal with little effort. I seem to keep taking it and using it every 15 minutes or so while processing an animal.

I usually have the Worksharp field sharpener in the repair kit I have in the truck in the lower 48 or at base camp in Alaska. It's 5oz and probably not necessary. I just seem to keep taking it along right up to the point I have to start carrying everything on my back in case it's needed. Thinking of it typing this I might take it out right now and see if I ever miss it. With the steel my knives have in them these days I bet I never do.

 

[mmac]

The powered worksharp sharpener is pretty hard to beat. I have heard good things about all the above, but the worksharp sharpens everything quick and to a hair shaving edge, puts a convex edge on which is what many top blades come with and can even do hatches and other similar blades. I have heard how hard some of the new steels are to sharpen like s30v, s35v, d2, elmax etc, but i touch them up when I use them and haven't had to do much more.

 

[boom]

Lansky system with the diamond hones.

I actually have this in my shopping cart. I have a few black coated blades I want to address with better precision. I don’t mind a knife getting scuffed from use, but I hope to not speed it along when I wander off the bevel with my other sharpening methods.

 

[BRTreedogs]

I actually have this in my shopping cart. I have a few black coated blades I want to address with better precision. I don’t mind a knife getting scuffed from use, but I hope to not speed it along when I wander off the bevel with my other sharpening methods.

Hmm I've used it on painted blades and cant remember a problem.
But knives are just tools to me. Soooooo you mite get upset about something I wouldn't even notice.
I have a work sharp as well for kitchen and more utility knives. But I just dont feel it would get my hunting knives as sharp as the lansky.
I think sharpening is a real chore and just want the best edge possible in littlest amount of effort. And think the lansky is a good middle ground between a work sharp being easy but not quite as clean a edge.
And old school sharpening that I have no skill or patience for.

 

[boom]

Hmm I've used it on painted blades and cant remember a problem.
But knives are just tools to me. Soooooo you mite get upset about something I wouldn't even notice.
I have a work sharp as well for kitchen and more utility knives. But I just dont feel it would get my hunting knives as sharp as the lansky.
I think sharpening is a real chore and just want the best edge possible in littlest amount of effort. And think the lansky is a good middle ground between a work sharp being easy but not quite as clean a edge.
And old school sharpening that I have no skill or patience for.

You misread. I want the Lansky for the precision

 

[BRTreedogs]

You misread. I want the Lansky for the precision

No.
I think that the old school stone and strooping some have mentioned is the most precision if you have the skill and patience.
And the lansky is in the middle. Next greatest precision. Not much skill required. More work then a work sharp.
Work sharp is quick easy and sharper then it was when you started. Not as sharp as ether.

 

[danarnold]

if you can afford a Wicked Edge kit it can't be beaten imo

 

[TX_Diver]

I'm a fan of the spyderco sharpmaker.

Use it for all my knives in the kitchen too and it doesn't take up much space, require any power, etc. Also stupid easy to use and I end up with a great edge.