Knife Sharpening Advice

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Jan 20, 2017
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I have a Esse Izula Stainless Steel (440c) and a Leatherman Wingman (also stainless steel).

My question is, what is a good sharpening kit to buy for a beginner to sharpen the above knives?

I was looking at the Lanski 5 stone deluxe kit (LKCLX).
Would you recommend it or another kit?

Thanks for your help
 
I have the diamond lansky. Does great on kitchen knives, hunting knives and Broadheads.
 
Thanks guys, I’m leaning towards the 5 stone kit.

What do you guys think of the Lansky Blade Medic for field sharpening?
 
I pretty much use water stones now, not Arkansas style. It takes longer initially, but the blades are sharp, stay that way longer, and touch up easily with steel. Look up the videos on it. Shapton makes good stones as does King.
 
Sharp knives are created by people that understand how to sharpen a knife, sometimes you can get a sharp knife by buying some gimmick thing that claims it's the answer to making a sharp knife but you wont get consistent results.

I use a Worksharp Guided Sharpening System and get consistently razor sharp results, and I mean razor sharp. When I shave hair the hairs literally pop off of the skin, you can feel them pop. But I've also gotten results like that from a simple Arkansas Stone, a belt sharpener, and several other sharpening tools.

The secret isn't the tool, it's understanding that there is a simple trick to getting razor sharp edges. The secret is that you need to shave metal off of one side of the blade until the metal rolls to the opposite side and then you switch to the other side and draw the blade across an extremely fine surface until the rolled metal is shaved off, usually no more than one or two strokes of the blade. Of course you also need to ensure that your blade taper is the same on both sides, that the edge is centered on the blade, and that the edge is straight (no nicks or dents).

The tools that claim that they make a perfect edge rely on them having some kind of rest that holds the blade at a consistent angle (or at least they claim it does). Providing a consistent angle is necessary but it's more important to pay attention to the rolled metal. That roll needs to be along the entire length of the edge before you are ready to shave it off from the other side.
 
If you want the most versatile sharpening gear will be water stones but there's a learning curve. If you want a system that takes the mystery out of the Lansky works well. The KME is a little better and easier to use but a bit more expensive. An Edge Pro Apex will be more expensive yet but with a little practice you'll get edges much much better than factory.
 
I’d agree that stones, really you only need one if you get the right one, sandpaper and a leather strop will produce the quickest and best edge, along with the easiest to maintain..... but you have to learn to do it, takes some practice but is very doable.

Sharpening systems are nice and produce a good edge, but imo are too much to setup and monkey with all the time. Work sharp is nice as well bit will eat a lot of blade, good for reprofiling knives you want a convex edge on. Still need a strop IMO and not really an option for field sharpening.

Personally I prefer to do it by hand. It allows me to carry some sandpaper and a light strop with me in the field for touch ups, and not just touch ups, but totally restoring the edge to very sharp.

A fallkniven double sided bench stone will do it all for heavy work. Go to Wally World and get some automotive sandpaper in grits from 800-2000 and get yourself or build a leather strop.
 
Sharp knives are created by people that understand how to sharpen a knife, sometimes you can get a sharp knife by buying some gimmick thing that claims it's the answer to making a sharp knife but you wont get consistent results.

I use a Worksharp Guided Sharpening System and get consistently razor sharp results, and I mean razor sharp. When I shave hair the hairs literally pop off of the skin, you can feel them pop. But I've also gotten results like that from a simple Arkansas Stone, a belt sharpener, and several other sharpening tools.

The secret isn't the tool, it's understanding that there is a simple trick to getting razor sharp edges. The secret is that you need to shave metal off of one side of the blade until the metal rolls to the opposite side and then you switch to the other side and draw the blade across an extremely fine surface until the rolled metal is shaved off, usually no more than one or two strokes of the blade. Of course you also need to ensure that your blade taper is the same on both sides, that the edge is centered on the blade, and that the edge is straight (no nicks or dents).

The tools that claim that they make a perfect edge rely on them having some kind of rest that holds the blade at a consistent angle (or at least they claim it does). Providing a consistent angle is necessary but it's more important to pay attention to the rolled metal. That roll needs to be along the entire length of the edge before you are ready to shave it off from the other side.

This is exactly right. Any tool will work if you evenly remove metal creating a consistent scratch pattern and developing a consistent burr. Then apex the edge by removing the burr.

On the other hand, you will never get consistent hair-popping sharp without forming a consistent burr and apexing the edge.

102026

102027
 
Whatever you get, REMEMBER, the stones are supposed to do all the work, don't press hard! For my two cents, I'd buy the KME knife sharpening system over the lansky!
 
i guess i'll be the a-hole that cheats. i don't carry stones but do like a sharp knife. this is a maintainer for my pocket knives that has paid for itself many times over. it takes less than half a minute to get my blade back to one pull cuts on poly pro ropes.

buy the stones and lear to use them but keep one of these in pocket for when you need it.

 
Of course the key is to hold a consistent angle...the many jigs do a great job on this.

The Gatco diamond jig is excellent affordable.

The Edge Pro is even better. After a guy uses one of these^ jigs working down to the finest stones...."Sharp" has a new meaning.

The Worksharp jigs are fast......maybe too fast IMO for good quality steel....gotta be careful with those, it doesn't take much.

...
 
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