Kimber Mountain ascent dipped stock bedding?

[coues32]

Any tips on bedding a kimber mountain ascent, subalpine stock.
Was going to bed the lug only but not sure if should do the action also.
There is some flaking of coating around lug area.

Going to tape bottom of lug 3 layers, any on the front?

 

[DoubleBroomedMountainRifles]

I build about 15 or so Kimbers every year. Montana and Mtn Ascent stocks. I bed full contact from about 1 inch of the barrel shank all the way to the rear guard screw tang area. I put ONE layer of 3M blue painters tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug. I take the entire action apart. The only part left is the attached barrel, recoil lug and the action. Fill in all holes, milled out areas with red playdoo. Put 50 mils of plumbers 2 inch plastic tape from 1 inch forward of the recoil lug past the forend. This is a good clearance for free floating. TAPE off ALL areas of the stock with 3m blue painters tape on the Mtn Asceent stocks to keep from peeling off the wrap.

 

[coues32]

I build about 15 or so Kimbers every year. Montana and Mtn Ascent stocks. I bed full contact from about 1 inch of the barrel shank all the way to the rear guard screw tang area. I put ONE layer of 3M blue painters tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug. I take the entire action apart. The only part left is the attached barrel, recoil lug and the action. Fill in all holes, milled out areas with red playdoo. Put 50 mils of plumbers 2 inch plastic tape from 1 inch forward of the recoil lug past the forend. This is a good clearance for free floating. TAPE off ALL areas of the stock with 3m blue painters tape on the Mtn Asceent stocks to keep from peeling off the wrap.

Do you take all the coating off on the inside of m/a stocks where bedding?

I layer of 50 mil tape on the barrel?
Thanks for the help!

 

[DoubleBroomedMountainRifles]

The Mtn Ascent stocks vary so much. Some have the wrap going over into the bedded area and some don't. But no matter you have to remove (mill, dermal, wrasp, chisel) at least 1/8 inch of material to be filled back in with bedding compound.

That plumbers 2 inch black tape normally comes in 10 mil or 20 mil thickness. So either 5 layers of 10 mil or 2 layers of 20 mil and a layer of 10 mil or a some other combination to add up to 50 mils. Its tricky to lay it straight without any air bubbles (which will cause a void in your bedded area) but make sure you lay that tape carefully especially the first few layers. I usually like to start off with the 20 mil thickness on my first layer. It seems to be a little more easier to keep the air voids out.

 

[coues32]

Thanks for the explanation. Gonna give it go.

 

[tdot]

I prefer to only tape the bottom of the lug. I dont see the reason for for taping front or the side. But to be honest, I've done it both ways and can't say one is amazing and then other sucks. Extra space does make assembly/disassembly easier, though that's the only reason I can see for it.

Is there another reason?

When I bedded my Montana there was a very light bevel on the bottom of the rear of the tang. When the epoxy was setting, I tried to level it to the bottom of that bevel, but wasnt 100% successful. There ended up with a tiny ridge at the rear rang that the action could press against. For interest I shot some groups and then sanded it down. It did improve after removing that tiny bearing surface at the rear of the action.

Its 100% worth the effort.

 

[coues32]

I prefer to only tape the bottom of the lug. I dont see the reason for for taping front or the side. But to be honest, I've done it both ways and can't say one is amazing and then other sucks. Extra space does make assembly/disassembly easier, though that's the only reason I can see for it.

Is there another reason?

When I bedded my Montana there was a very light bevel on the bottom of the rear of the tang. When the epoxy was setting, I tried to level it to the bottom of that bevel, but wasnt 100% successful. There ended up with a tiny ridge at the rear rang that the action could press against. For interest I shot some groups and then sanded it down. It did improve after removing that tiny bearing surface at the rear of the action.

Its 100% worth the effort.

Thanks for the input, older I get want stuff to work as best as it can.

 

[Wapiti1]

I prefer to only tape the bottom of the lug. I dont see the reason for for taping front or the side. But to be honest, I've done it both ways and can't say one is amazing and then other sucks. Extra space does make assembly/disassembly easier, though that's the only reason I can see for it.

Is there another reason?

When I bedded my Montana there was a very light bevel on the bottom of the rear of the tang. When the epoxy was setting, I tried to level it to the bottom of that bevel, but wasnt 100% successful. There ended up with a tiny ridge at the rear rang that the action could press against. For interest I shot some groups and then sanded it down. It did improve after removing that tiny bearing surface at the rear of the action.

Its 100% worth the effort.

There are two reasons to clearance the front. First is ease of disassembly. Second is more important, it prevents wear of the bedding at the back of the recoil lug during assembly. The recoil lug will shave bedding every time it is assembled if it is too tight, and you don't get to choose where it shaves it off. The shavings can cause binding under the lug, and reduce contact with the lug.

Having some clearance allows you to assemble with a gap, then slide it back to seat the lug before tightening the screws.

Jeremy