Kimber montana stock repair

OP
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Geez, you’re a glutton for punishment! I hope the repair works after all your trouble. Ida chucked that bugger into the can and had McMillian on the phone in less than a minute.
I called them this afternoon and confirmed that they don't inlet for the Montana... would have been my preferred way to go though haha
 

_Scooter_

Lil-Rokslider
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No it's a much higher quality feeling stock than a Tikka. Stiffer and lighter, doesn't feel plasticy.

Thats good to know. That was the main thing that turned me off to the Tikka. The stock felt cheap and plastic-y (because it's plastic!). Thought about getting one and replacing the stock, but couldn't bring myself to do that when I could just spend a little more and get a more refined rifle that came with all metal parts, a Bell & Carlson stock and better recoil pad and not have to change anything.
 

Wapiti1

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The Montana stock is a fiberglass/kevlas shell stock like a Manners. Tikka is injection molded fiber reinforced plastic. Which is better is up to you. They both do what they are supposed to.

I've never been able to repair a true fiberglass stock with just epoxy. They always crack again because the repair is weaker than the surrounding material.

Jeremy
 

Lawnboi

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I couldn’t trust that on a hunt.

Seeing as nobody makes the stock, I’d call LRI and see if they have any flat top mcmillan or manners they would Inlet and bed for the Montana. Probably won’t be cheap.
 

Dhbwa

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Richland WA, SE WA
I couldn’t trust that on a hunt.

Seeing as nobody makes the stock, I’d call LRI and see if they have any flat top mcmillan or manners they would Inlet and bed for the Montana. Probably won’t be cheap.

Easier just buy a replacement from Kimber..........
 

gmeek

FNG
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Oh wow! You're a brave man!! I was thinking some of the epoxys I've seen used in making knife handles would be a possibility if you could have got in in the crack. Cant wait to see the finished product! Best of luck!!
 

False_Cast

Lil-Rokslider
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The Montana stock has the best ergos in the game. T3x’ stock has no peers when it comes to molded stocks. I’ve never met a B&C worth its weight in light beer.
 

tdot

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Nice work. @Wapiti1 gave you good advice.

That plastic wrap should help ensure a good bond, I wouldn't be afraid to use that rifle on a hunt.

If you ever run into a repair like that in the future, I'd recommend sealing that foam with epoxy prior to starting the repair. It ensures a better bond and prevents the patch from having dry spots in that area if the foam pulls epoxy resin away from the new repair.

Looking forward to the final results, post up the final pics.
 
OP
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Thanks all for the input! I rough sanded it down with he dremel yesterday after a 24hr cure. I’ll finish it with sandpaper today and get a skim coat of epoxy on. I tested the rigidity by leaning most of my body weight on the stock with the recoil pad on the ground. If it can handle 200ish pounds of pressure I’m sure it’ll be fine on a hunt. I should have it bedded and painted by the end of the weekend, I’ll update as I move along. It’s going to end up being a sub 6 pound 338-06 so I wanted the repair to be as strong as possible to hold up to the recoil.
 

Wapiti1

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Good deal. That procedure is how I was taught to repair boat hulls, and I translated it to stocks when I got into gunsmithing on the side. I've used variations of that on many repairs with no failures that I know of (boats or rifles).

You never mentioned the 338-06 part. Well played. I really like that cartridge for an all around game getter.

Jeremy
 
OP
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Now the nerve wracking wait begins. Grabbed the acra glass gel last night and it was hardened from sitting for a couple years so I picked up some MarineTex. Only my second bedding job ever so fingers crossed I didn’t f*** anything up... Tomorrow I’ll be able to finish sand the exterior and start painting. Here’s how it looked sanding down the original fiberglass patch. I capped it with a thin coat of JB plastic binder to seal any loose glass.

828BF82D-CC24-4E53-B3F2-2BED0AFD7DA5.jpegF6CE8CB2-99CE-4C23-83B1-C7B6344B21D1.jpeg
 

tdot

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Good deal. That procedure is how I was taught to repair boat hulls, and I translated it to stocks when I got into gunsmithing on the side. I've used variations of that on many repairs with no failures that I know of (boats or rifles).

You never mentioned the 338-06 part. Well played. I really like that cartridge for an all around game getter.

Jeremy

The nice thing about a rifle stock is the foam is not weeping water for weeks on end.
 
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Murtfree

Lil-Rokslider
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Got her wrapped up today. Sanded the patched area smooth, cleaned up the bedding and repainted it. Huge thanks to everyone especially Wapati1 for all the guidance. Next step is a trip to JES Reboring to punch the barrel out to 338-06.
View attachment 183811View attachment 183812View attachment 183813
Real good job.....repair and paint came out very nice. Really impressed with the paint job. I’ve seen that webbing style paint on factory stocks but never on a DYI paint job. Would you mind explaining how you do the webbing?
 
OP
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Real good job.....repair and paint came out very nice. Really impressed with the paint job. I’ve seen that webbing style paint on factory stocks but never on a DYI paint job. Would you mind explaining how you do the webbing?
Thanks man, surprised myself on this one. I used Krylon Marbelizing spray over Krylon green “camo” spray paint. Sealed it with clear coat. The clear came out a bit glossy but I’m sure a couple hunting trips should knock the shine right off. I had a green B&C stock on a Tikka a couple years ago and it feels dang near identical in finish. Definitely do some practice runs on cardboard first, it sprays fast.B2F5DB8A-023C-433F-8442-BE888E6387AE.png
 
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