Kimber Montana or Barrett Fieldcraft

[TwoTwoThree]

In the process of looking for a lightweight mountain rifle and have narrowed it to the Kimber Montana or Barrett Fieldcraft chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.
They are in the same price point and weight and both feel good in the hand.
Anyone have any preference of one over the other (Pro's & Con's)?
Any information greatly appreciated.
Thanks

I like the Barrett!
Take a look at the new Weatherby Mark V Weathermark LT (5.8LB) and Backcountry (5.3LB) in 6.5 creedmoor.

 

[mt100gr.]

If your a bad enough shooter that you need to put a frown face next to 1 shot if each 5 shot group you shoot you should get some help, training or practice and fix whatever your problem is. Other wise that is simply what you and your gun can group. No excuses.

5 shot group prone of a pack. No bipod. 10 round groups are better but I was fatiguing after 50 rounds shot with another rifle so I stopped at 5. The gun will reliably do 1.3" 5 to 10 shot groups this is my best group to date with the rifle and factory ammo

Since I feel like this (as well as a comment from form above) is directed at a post I made in an active Kimber thread, I want to point out that It's important to clarify the difference between a DIY project thread and a rifle comparison thread. I shoot plenty and I know when I break the trigger cleanly vs just don't execute. The target pic in the Kimber thread was nothing more than a sharing of results both in technique and experience with my project. Personally, I find it interesting that your best group with that particular rifle is only 5 shots vs the 10 you recommend. No excuses.
That's 10 from my 300 WM

And here's 4 shots from my kimber.

This also reiterates what has been said about shooting a lightweight rifle well. The Tikka is about 9lbs all up, the 300 comes in at 11 and change, and my kimber hunter weighs well under 6lbs all up. I'd definitely like to try a Barrett someday but I know a rifle that light will have its own nuances and learning curve.

 

[Reburn]

Since I feel like this (as well as a comment from form above) is directed at a post I made in an active Kimber thread, I want to point out that It's important to clarify the difference between a DIY project thread and a rifle comparison thread. I shoot plenty and I know when I break the trigger cleanly vs just don't execute. The target pic in the Kimber thread was nothing more than a sharing of results both in technique and experience with my project. Personally, I find it interesting that your best group with that particular rifle is only 5 shots vs the 10 you recommend. No excuses. View attachment 128336View attachment 128337
That's 10 from my 300 WM
View attachment 128339
And here's 4 shots from my kimber.

This also reiterates what has been said about shooting a lightweight rifle well. The Tikka is about 9lbs all up, the 300 comes in at 11 and change, and my kimber hunter weighs well under 6lbs all up. I'd definitely like to try a Barrett someday but I know a rifle that light will have its own nuances and learning curve.

It wasn't directed at you as I haven't read that thread. There is no point in posting the 5 10 round groups I shot for a 50 round group at the same target with one of my other guns as it wasn't the fieldcraft or a kimber. All I was trying to do with the fieldcraft saturday is verify zero as I'm fixing to run my dope every 50 yards to 750 or 1000 or until I get tired of shooting this coming weekend.

Surely you can understand my experience with these lightweight rifles is they aren't forgiving. If your not on the ball and you get sloppy they will make your groups look like a blind person shot them.

 

[mt100gr.]

It wasn't directed at you as I haven't read that thread. There is no point in posting the 5 10 round groups I shot for a 50 round group at the same target with one of my other guns as it wasn't the fieldcraft or a kimber. All I was trying to do with the fieldcraft saturday is verify zero as I'm fixing to run my dope every 50 yards to 750 or 1000 or until I get tired of shooting this coming weekend.

Surely you can understand my experience with these lightweight rifles is they aren't forgiving. If your not on the ball and you get sloppy they will make your groups look like a blind person shot them.

I agree. And no intention of hijacking this thread.

I do enjoy shooting my kimber as I am sure I would a fieldcraft. I have had a long list of frustrations with kimber but the occasional moments of clarity and lately, improved comfort and consistency tells me that a significant amount of blame could have been mine. I have to believe that the fieldcraft would be better out of the box. Like others, I exhausted myself experimenting with tweaks and adjustments to get mine shooting decently. Along with those tweaks came trigger time. Which I now believe may have been the biggest factor in settling things down. I'm sure the Barrett would require as much trigger time, ideally without the wrenching.

 

[Formidilosus]

Since I feel like this (as well as a comment from form above) is directed at a post I made in an active Kimber thread

Nothing meant personally. I was just using it as an example- not a condemnation. There are posts all over that show what looks like buckshot with 3 rounds circled. Of course it’s the closest 3 rounds. Or of a single 3 rounds that are nowhere near an aiming point, or with multiple rounds but with the “bad” ones marked and not counted. When I talk “accuracy” I mean I will lay down right now, fire ten rounds and this is what it will be. No excuses, no caveats. Anything else is misleading.


My post was to explain why I said what I said about Kimbers. Find a thread/picture from a Kimber with 12 rounds on a dot like your Tikka. It isn’t because Kimbers are hard to shoot. FC’s and ULA/NULA’s are just as light and yet owners do not have the problems getting them to shoot.



But I do have a question for the masses-


If, Kimbers or any other rifle requires so much concentration, a certain just right hold, rested only a certain way, and only on a certain type of rest; how are you going to legitimately replicate that in the field?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

My kimbers dont require any more concentration than any other rifle I own.

 

[brsnow]

Nothing meant personally. I was just using it as an example- not a condemnation. There are posts all over that show what looks like buckshot with 3 rounds circled. Of course it’s the closest 3 rounds. Or of a single 3 rounds that are nowhere near an aiming point, or with multiple rounds but with the “bad” ones marked and not counted. When I talk “accuracy” I mean I will lay down right now, fire ten rounds and this is what it will be. No excuses, no caveats. Anything else is misleading.


My post was to explain why I said what I said about Kimbers. Find a thread/picture from a Kimber with 12 rounds on a dot like your Tikka. It isn’t because Kimbers are hard to shoot. FC’s and ULA/NULA’s are just as light and yet owners do not have the problems getting them to shoot.



But I do have a question for the masses-


If, Kimbers or any other rifle requires so much concentration, a certain just right hold, rested only a certain way, and only on a certain type of rest; how are you going to legitimately replicate that in the field?

4 round group factory 140 e-tips sitting and shooting free hand @100 yards. I just practice shooting it and shoot milk jugs at various distances as well. Both my kimbers shoot
similar. These do fine in the field.

 

[Formidilosus]

My kimbers dont require any more concentration than any other rifle I own.

Nore should they if they are built/assembled correctly. I have little doubt that yours are “good”. If one has to do something to get any rifle to shoot consistently, the rifle probably needs work.

 

[Formidilosus]

4 round group factory 140 e-tips sitting and shooting free hand @100 yards. I just practice shooting it and shoot milk jugs at various distances as well. Both my kimbers shoot
similar. These do fine in the field.

What was the aiming point?

 

[brsnow]

What was the aiming point?

the orange dot in middle. Trying to get 1.5” high to be close on 200 zero. Was trying out different ammo to see what it liked. It liked the e-tips. My other kimber likes Barnes.

 

[Formidilosus]

the orange dot in middle. Was trying out different ammo to see what it liked. It liked the e-tips. My other kimber likes Barnes.

So the question is- if that is normal, and not a one time event, why not show groups actually zeroed?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Nore should they if they are built/assembled correctly. I have little doubt that yours are “good”. If one has to do something to get any rifle to shoot consistently, the rifle probably needs work.

I agree. I havnt ever done anything to my kimbers other than mount scopes and torqued them up. Not saying some dont have problems but I havn't experienced any issues with mine and I've heard less about issues as time has gone on.

 

[brsnow]

So the question is- if that is normal, and not a one time event, why not show groups actually zeroed?

it was the only picture I took, let my buddy know I found a good round for it. Was pretty pumped it was the 2nd ammo I tried. It consistently shoots groups like that. They do float around the dot since I don’t use a sand bag or sled, but I am okay with that.

 

[AK Troutbum]

You should put in for sheep draws! Haha. Kidding.

So when you say “easily sub MOA”, how exactly are you determining that?

I think a lot of this is what definition of “sub MOA” one is using (not necessarily your rifles).

I do put in for sheep draws every year, I just wish my luck was a little better.

I generally just use the same standards that I think most rifle manufactures use, 3 consecutive shots at 100 yards and measure the distance between the furthest apart. If that distance is less than 1" it's sub MOA. Is that correct?

 

[Formidilosus]

I generally just use the same standards that I think most rifle manufactures use, 3 consecutive shots at 100 yards and measure the distance between the furthest apart. If that distance is less than 1" it's sub MOA. Is that correct?

That is what most do.


However, follow along with me for a bit-

Why are you shooting “groups”? What information are you looking for? How bad will the “groups” have to be before you think there is a problem?

 

[AK Troutbum]

You own both so are more qualified than most to answer, but could you please clarify? My impression was that the Kimber Montana is about the same weight as a Fieldcraft, and the Mountain Ascent (which is about the same price as a Fieldcraft) is somewhat lighter.

It's always hard to tell from published weights. I read one article that said the Fieldcraft 7mm-08 had a stock weighing 20 oz. Meanwhile my Montana 7mm-08 stock weighs 25 oz., and my Subalpine .30-06 stock weighs 25.5. Are the Fieldcraft stocks really that light?

I can't remember what the wt. was on my short action Montana before I started working on it to lighten it up, but I'm pretty sure that it was a fair amount heavier than my 6.5 CM Fieldcraft. If I remember right, the stock on the .300wsm Montana weighs 26 oz., but I've never had the stock off the Fieldcraft to weigh it. I've also never had the stock off the .270 Mountain Ascent to weigh it either. The naked wt. of my FC is 5.18 lbs. according to my scale, and my Montana (after taking several oz. off of it), now weighs 5.65 oz., both short actions but not really apples to apples comparisons.

 

[AK Troutbum]

Why are you shooting “groups”? What information are you looking for? How bad will the “groups” have to be before you think there is a problem?

I guess just for the personal satisfaction of trying to get the tightest groups that I can get. I then try and move those groups around as necessary to achieve the POI that I want, usually about 1-2" above bullseye at 100 yards. As far as how bad the groups have to be before I think there is a problem, that would depend on the type of rifle I'm shooting. For all my, what I consider, light wt. rifles, I want my groups to be no larger than 1" at 100 yards. For some of my other rifles, like a 120 year old, open site, 30-30 lever action, I'm super happy with 2" groups at 100 yards, as long as I can keep those groups close to the bullseye.

I guess for me the bottom line is, can I feel comfortable taking a particular rifle out, and ethically killing game with it, at what I consider manageable distances? Being able to accomplish 3 shot MOA groups at the range, gives me the confidence to do that (make ethical kills), when I'm in the field.

 

[turley]

AK Troutbum,
Is your Fieldcraft the standard 21” barrel?

 

[AK Troutbum]

AK Troutbum,
Is your Fieldcraft the standard 21” barrel?

Yes


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[WildWes]

No experience with the Kimber, but my 6.5CM suppressed 18” Fieldcraft is really great. It shoots pretty consistent 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards With factory ammo. I took it on a New Mexico elk hunt last weekend. It was a dream to hike in the mountains with it. Didn’t manage a bull, but I did bag a nice cow elk with one double lung shot that dropped her on the spot.