Kifaru Bikini Troubles

I took a framesheet out of an old backpack and placed it in the water bladder pocket. Solved all issues of things poking through the pads. You wont be able to do that with the nomad as easily . Pcord looks like it will solve your problem.
 
I use a long skinny badlands bladder that fits perfectly between the stays on my bikini frame. It's never bothered me, so I haven't done anything about it. It doesn't push on my back that much at all, I think it's more of a visual thing. If it was really protruding through the frame enough I would think I would feel the plastic cord lock from my Rick Young bino harness digging into my back, but I don't.
 
I'm going to try and see if I can get some carbon fiber rods that I can put horizontally across the open area. I'm hoping to keep them in place with some velcro tabs or small pockets of sorts. The para cord idea has crossed my mind, but I'm hoping for a more solid bracket type design without adding much weight. I chose the Bikini because of the minimal weight and don't want to add a lot more to it if possible.
 
I'm going to try and see if I can get some carbon fiber rods that I can put horizontally across the open area. I'm hoping to keep them in place with some velcro tabs or small pockets of sorts. The para cord idea has crossed my mind, but I'm hoping for a more solid bracket type design without adding much weight. I chose the Bikini because of the minimal weight and don't want to add a lot more to it if possible.

I have not found this to be a problem with my BT1 but from the response here you should try the para cord method first if minmal weight is your main concern. I don't think adding something solid adds anything since the frame is already capable of hauling loads more than your average joe can carry. I have had mine as heavey as 132 lbs of meat and horns (I had a scale handy at the truck) with no issues.
 
I run a source 3L bladder and I have it in one of the slot pockets of the wing. I had the same idea with the para cord but on this trip (from the photos) I was actually trying shock cord, just because I could pull it very tight and figured it could be useful to have if I wanted to lash a jacket or something on. Even very tight the shock cord doesn't help much. But if you could get para cord tight it may work better. Few days ago I had no bladder, just a tripod and scope and I had to adjust the tripod a couple times because it was rubbing my back.
 
I'll test out para-cord likely first, but I have some smaller diameter carbon fiber that would work too and will investigate. I wouldn't do anything permanent to destroy the frame or pack, just temporary items until I find out what's best. One thing I've noticed with para cord over time is that it will tend to lose tension if a load is put on it. I have some small diameter spectra cord that might hold up better and stay tighter for a long hike with weight.
 
We've played with arrows as cross members during the design phase and it will work for sure.

I only needed one when I tested this, but others could need two, depending on your style on the way you load the pack.

My buddy "gutted" his Paracord when he did his (it works well with the Nomad this way) and just over an ounce of weight.

My suggestion would to use Paracord, but start at the bottom of the pack (like a set of boot laces) and work your way up. When you get to the top of the torso pad, tie a knot that allows you to add some tension of needed.



I'm going to try and see if I can get some carbon fiber rods that I can put horizontally across the open area. I'm hoping to keep them in place with some velcro tabs or small pockets of sorts. The para cord idea has crossed my mind, but I'm hoping for a more solid bracket type design without adding much weight. I chose the Bikini because of the minimal weight and don't want to add a lot more to it if possible.
 
Thanks Aaron for the info, I'll see what I can do. The only time this is going to be an issue for me is when coming out heavy with boned out meat. Other than that, my pack is loaded with bags horizontally and they don't bow in and rub. I'll rig up the frame before a hunt either way so that I don't have to tinker around with it out in the field. Knowing my luck it would be hailing softballs and I'd be up on a mountain weaving para cord.
 
Nomad is my first kifaru but based on the design I would imagine it would be more prone to this problem than any other design. I am going to try paracord. I was thinking about trying arrow shafts as cross bars too.
 
It was an issue for me a single time, I just started running my bladder in a side pocket on my BT1 and tripod/spotter in the other. Plus it's way easier access to fill up the 3L big zip when I get low on water. Just like running a T1 or Bikini frame there are better ways to pack them compared to say a duplex frame where u just lash n go! Part of the weight savings compromise...

Mike
 
Thats what I am saying about the nomad compared to other bags... It might be the worst for this issue. I am not running the bladder right down the middle but it actually might be worse in one of the slot pockets as far as creating a bulge between the stays.
 
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Mine does this same thing but has never physically pushed on my back or been something I could feel (other than the cold temp of the bladder). The Parachord seems like a good idea though.
 
this was an bother for me when i first got my bikini frame last year. mostly because i had my platy bladder either hung, or in the designed pouch (granted this is a timberline bag)and the corner would end up poking me. i ran some webbing across and it did ok but really just started packing a little differently. took the straps off halfway through last year. if i had a complaint its that i sweat all over that portion of the packbag and cant put my maps near there or theyre toast!
all this is a trade off for weight savings and i find the bikini frame to be cooler(not that i dont still sweat all over it) than my duplex was.
i also started hanging my two med KU pull outs from the common loops that line up with the stays. one has my possibles, the other my kill kit. the seem to help keep things from poking through that area and it keeps the from flopping around and sinking to the bottom of the cordura tunnel.
 
Bikini lashing example on my frame:

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I love Kifaru products and will continue to purchase them..but.. I was told by Kifaru staff that barreling.. would not be an issue with this frame. I have not found this to be the case. Edit*(Apparently Barreling was bad word choice...bulging seems more appropriate)Edit* Now that all being said this can be remedied rather easily. It just takes a little bit of forethought when loading this pack. Making sure small items are not packed where they can protrude between the shoulders and using bladders or other items to keep things lined up works as well. We have to understand that this is a sacrifice you will have to make for the weight savings and comfort the Bikini frame offers. Let's face it fellas...at this stage of the game we are talking about some serious equipment used by some serious hunters..having to load a pack in a specific manner to match the capabilities and strengths of the equipment is kind of what us hunting nerds love..the details.. paying $700 for a pack doesn't mean its going to load itself :D
 
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Maybe its just me but out of the 10+ animals and multiple mutliday trips I used my bikini last year something protruding between the stays was only an issue once. I had to leave the meat on the bone when packing out a caribou. I loaded it in such a manner that one of the shoulders of the caribou was poking me in the back between the stays.....this was about a 135 pound (measured with a scale) load so I just waiting until I tuckered out for the next break on the pack out (which likely wasn't that far ;) ) and fixed how I loaded it and moved on. I would not consider this barreling at all. But more just something sticking between the stays. I experienced barreling quite a bit with my Timberline one which has no horizontal cross bracing on the frame. To me barreling is more when the pack is so rounded out that the waistbelt and backpads are actually bulged convex like (like the outside of a barrel).

Granted generally driving a knee hard into the pack cured most of that but it still happened to some degree. Barrel as I see it can not really happen on a bikini frame due to the frame design as the frame itself will never actually barrel, get a bulge (the OP of this threads favorite word) through the stays if loaded in such a manner sure it can, but the frame barrel, nah I haven't experienced that and honestly don't see the frame/harness/belt barreling like it would on the Timberline 1. I would imagine a hard knee between the stays of the bikini would fix that bulging in a hurry as well if one was inclined to fix it that way.
 
The T-series and KU packs can barrel with the stays actually twisting in the vertical plane, but with the bikini the load in the center of the bag can protrude forward in the middle of the stays - not sure if it is quite the same thing.
 
Ive had a blacks creek pack barrel on me, but I couldn't get my old ku3700 to barrel. Not sure why, seems like the ku packs are built to barrel but mine never did. I agree with Luke in that I don't see how I could barrel my bikini. I havnt had the bikini out on the trail yet, but I did load it with gear & water in my high camp bag, & had no issues with the bladder poking through. I did have the bladder poke through when I removed the high camp & attached the new bladder sleeve & a hanging meat bag over it with a medium pod attached to the bottom of the frame. I tried the big zip & the dromedary 4 ltr. & got the same results with both. Like others, I found a paracord web or two of the horizontal lashing straps to be the cure.
 
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