Just starting to think about archery

[bnewt3]

I know I need to go to a shop and feel, draw, shoot multiple bows and get myself educated, and then whatever I get, having it setup for me.

My question is what is a reasonable all-in budget? Id like to get something good enough that I can keep using for years, but im also not going to spend $2000+ either.

I dont know what I dont know.

Are the "Brand X RTH" $300-$500 combos good enough to not feel held back as my skills improve? Or is there a significant increase in quality/shootability/modularity going up to say $800-$1000?

Im also a Correcty(Lefty) so that reduces my options some but there are plenty of LH options out there.

 

[bnewt3]

Also, does anyone have a shop recommendation in the Hickory, NC area?

 

[CJ_BG]

I was in the same boat (also lefty) for years. Got some cheap stuff and realized for 1000 you could do everything and have it last you a decade or more just replacing strings and arrows.

Get a used flagship from 2-4 years ago that has adjustable mods. This will let you adjust draw length without needing specific mods. Also something that has a tuning system you can do yourself is a big help like the bowtechs or elites. $400-$500 if you do some digging and it'll be nicer than any of the RTH packages

Used sight, you don't have to get fancy. Anything from any of the companies with good reputation that's in good condition will be fine, this is also one of the things you'll probably decide to change in a year or two. Anywhere from $50-$200, let the budget decide.

I would start with a nice index release, you can go used here too. A scott, b3, truball, or stan will treat you well for $60-$100.

Arrows are easy, either easton 6.5mm, victory vforce, or black eagle talon/carnivore. I would get the .003 straightness for all of them. this'll be $50-$70 for 6.

Don't worry too much about stabilizers, I would get an 8 or 10" bar and play with weight some but form is going to matter way more than stabilizer setup. How much you spend here is entirely personal.

Quiver is also a personal choice, you can get a trophy ridge for $45 that'll hold 5 arrows or go with a $200 tight spot.


If you go with the most expensive options of the price ranges I listed and a $100 stabilizer then you're at $1170. If you go with the cheapest and a $40 stabilizer you're at $645. You'll probably fall in the middle somewhere, especially if you decide to go with a more expensive bow.

 

[bnewt3]

I was in the same boat (also lefty) for years. Got some cheap stuff and realized for 1000 you could do everything and have it last you a decade or more just replacing strings and arrows.

Get a used flagship from 2-4 years ago that has adjustable mods. This will let you adjust draw length without needing specific mods. Also something that has a tuning system you can do yourself is a big help like the bowtechs or elites. $400-$500 if you do some digging and it'll be nicer than any of the RTH packages

Used sight, you don't have to get fancy. Anything from any of the companies with good reputation that's in good condition will be fine, this is also one of the things you'll probably decide to change in a year or two. Anywhere from $50-$200, let the budget decide.

I would start with a nice index release, you can go used here too. A scott, b3, truball, or stan will treat you well for $60-$100.

Arrows are easy, either easton 6.5mm, victory vforce, or black eagle talon/carnivore. I would get the .003 straightness for all of them. this'll be $50-$70 for 6.

Don't worry too much about stabilizers, I would get an 8 or 10" bar and play with weight some but form is going to matter way more than stabilizer setup. How much you spend here is entirely personal.

Quiver is also a personal choice, you can get a trophy ridge for $45 that'll hold 5 arrows or go with a $200 tight spot.


If you go with the most expensive options of the price ranges I listed and a $100 stabilizer then you're at $1170. If you go with the cheapest and a $40 stabilizer you're at $645. You'll probably fall in the middle somewhere, especially if you decide to go with a more expensive bow.

As someone that hasnt been following archery, how do I know something is flagship? Is there a resource out there that lists such things?

 

[CJ_BG]

As someone that hasnt been following archery, how do I know something is flagship? Is there a resource out there that lists such things?

Usually the bow tests from places like outdoor life, inside out precision, and podium archer are flagships. They'll likely also say if it's a flagship bow or if it's a price point bow during the test/review. You can also look up something like "elite archery 2023 flagship bow" which will show you the omnia (aluminum riser) and era (carbon riser) were the flagship models of that year. Most companies will have 2 or 3 flagship models every year. Sometimes they're the same bow but at different lengths like the mathews phase 4 29 and 33.


That reminded me of a few things. A longer axle to axle length is usually more forgiving to shoot, but you don't need to go crazy long, just stay away from anything under 30 or so inches axle to axle.

You'll hear a lot about vibration and hand shock. These are overexaggerated so much with modern compound bows. It's just a little bit of residual vibration after the shot and plays no part in the actual shooting. Ignore this when you hear about it in reviews unless they say it's really bad.

 

[fatbacks]

If you are new to it there will be tremendous value buying and getting setup by your local shop. They’ll be able to help fit the bow to you and probably let you know how your form looks. I guarantee you’ll need to go back a time or two to tweak your setup

Ask with them if they have any good bows sitting around that are a model year or two back. Shoot some bows and see what feels good to you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[doc holiday13]

Anything sold in the last 5 years will be a solid choice be it a Mathews, Hoyt, Bowtech or PSE.

A new price point bow or used flagship bow will likely run you about $800-1200 once you throw in 2 doz arrows, release aid(wrist rocket or handheld), target, and pro shop charge to get everything fitted and tied in for you.

 

[Beendare]

Some good advice above. As a Lefty myself, sadly you will not have anything near the options to shoot/try at the shops-us lefties get treated like redheaded step children.

Used bows can be had for a song.....but without experience, you will probably end up with something that doesn't fit you- and thats asking for trouble. A good shop is expensive for your first rodeo- but worth it.

if you do decide to work through the steep learning curve on your own and roll the dice with used, get one that is an adjustable draw length without needing a bow press. Performance is not that big of a deal....but Fit is critical.