Iron Will k1 Knife Feedback

[Bill V]

I'm looking for feedback on our k1 Ultralight Knives from people that have used them this year or others that just have an opinion on what they would like to see in an ultralight hunting knife. This knife was designed for skinning and deboning large game animals with minimal weight (1.0 oz) while having very good edge retention and toughness. Any feedback is appreciated, but here are a few questions that I have.

-Did the top sharpened edges work well for cutting the hide?
-Did you use paracord to wrap the handle or prefer without wrap or would you prefer a handle such as G10 knowing this would add weight?
-How was the size and shape of the knife for skinning and deboning?
-Did the knife work well for caping?
-What did you like about the knife and what would you like to see improved?

Thanks!
Bill V

 

[Cody_W]

Hey Bill,

Love the shape and construction of the knife. I’d like to see a more ergonomic overgrip like the Tyto Fannin screw on grips. I think you nailed this one much like the broadheads overall.

 

[StopMakingSense]

-Did the top sharpened edges work well for cutting the hide? Yes, had trouble resharpening the top though. The slant looks cool but man, it's way easier to sharpen with a belly.

-Did you use paracord to wrap the handle or prefer without wrap or would you prefer a handle such as G10 knowing this would add weight? Would prefer G10, I used it without paracord and all the edges are just too square, if the knife was beveled just a bit on the grip it would be quite a bit more pleasing.

-How was the size and shape of the knife for skinning and deboning? Shape was ok, prefer more of an elongated belly on the bottom instead of the flat part. I eventually moved to my friends Benchmade Altitude.

-Did the knife work well for caping? Didn't try

-What did you like about the knife and what would you like to see improved? Lightweight, jimping on the rear of the knife for extra grip in the palm, less boxy edges on the handles (cut out G10 would be nice like the Argali Carbon), more belly for easier skinning

 

[Bill V]

Great feedback, thanks guys

 

[justin davis]

I love these knives!

I use the top for skinning and it works well

I took off the para cord handle. I prefer no paracord because mine always just get gunked up

I like the weight of the knife!! I wouldn’t want it any heavier!

 

[Bill V]

Based on the feedback here and DMs, we now break the corners on all the handle edges, hand wrap paracord for you as an option, and we are working on G10 handle skins as an option. Feeback is always appreciated, thanks.

 

[Lawnboi]

Slap some blaze oranges, matte, scalloped near the blade for a pinch grip, g10 scales on there and I’d have a hard time not trying one out.

 

[Shraggs]

Bill, I considered buying, might still. Concept is great as the blade size is so much more useful than a small scaple shaped knife. The pattern seems a semi skinner to me, imo one of the best single knife solutions for skinning then boning out. What held me back was mentioned above, the edge straightens after the forward belly and I prefer some ever so slightly belly or curvature to continue.

Also not sure if grind is flat or convex, but huge fan of full convex including sharp edge.

 

[sndmn11]

I handled one at WHCE last year and loved it for the most part. I held back because I didn't like the two angles on the top side. If it were one radius concave, or one flat straight, I'd have one.

 

[Bill V]

Great feedback guys, thanks!

 

[geoff995]

-Did the top sharpened edges work well for cutting the hide?
Yes! Love the top cutting edge.
-Did you use paracord to wrap the handle or prefer without wrap or would you prefer a handle such as G10 knowing this would add weight?
I used the included paracord. Found it tough to get fat and meat cleaned out of it in the backcountry. After I got back from our elk hunt I dipped the handle with paracord still attached in plasti dip. Works excellent now. I think I would prefer the paracord or dipped paracord over g10.
-How was the size and shape of the knife for skinning and deboning?
Size and shape was good for me. Friend I was with had a havalon. He went through multiple blades while the k1 was still razor sharp.
-Did the knife work well for caping?
Yes.
-What did you like about the knife and what would you like to see improved?
Sharpness and durability of edge are excellent. Non cutting edges softened but I believe y’all have already addressed that.

Thanks!
Bill V
[/QUOTE]

 

[bowtech101st]

Bill,

I'm in the market for a new ultralight fixed blade knife. I was wondering if you could help me understand a couple of things about the A2 steel versus some others.

Specifically, could you help me understand the differences between:

1. Your A2 steel (how much does your "proprietary hardening process" differ from regular A2 steel?)
2. S35vn steel
3. and S90v steel

Thank you!

 

[colersu22]

I commented on the Instagram post but something for corrosion/rust like cerakote would make it perfect.

 

[Bill V]

Bill,

I'm in the market for a new ultralight fixed blade knife. I was wondering if you could help me understand a couple of things about the A2 steel versus some others.

Specifically, could you help me understand the differences between:

1. Your A2 steel (how much does your "proprietary hardening process" differ from regular A2 steel?)
2. S35vn steel
3. and S90v steel

Thank you!

S35VN and S90V are martensitic stainless steels (14% chromium) and A2 is a tool steel (with 5% chromium). Stainless steels have better corrosion resistance whereas A2 has much higher toughness. A2 is often used in metal stamping dies for its unique combination of high hardness for edge retention and sharpness along with high toughness. With A2 we are able to have a knife that is .062" thick weighing only 1 ounce and still have great toughness. S35VN and S90V are excellent blade steels, but they need to be thicker and weigh more so they won't break doing comparable work. Also, S90V has a lot of very hard vanadium carbide particles which makes it much harder to sharpen, but also should hold an edge longer. The standard A2 heat treatment would include a single tempering. We add a cryogenic treatment to convert any retained austenite that could cause weak spots in the steel. We also triple temper to further improve toughness while maintaining high hardness for edge retention. After several months of development, we found this heat treatment process nearly doubled the break strength and toughness compared to the standard A2 process. A2 will get rust spots sooner than stainless steels so it's best to not leave it wet, but dry it off and wiping on mineral oil will further improve corrosion resistance. Personally, I can get a sharper edge on A2 steel compared to stainless blade steels but this is a bit subjective. Feel free to call our main number and ask to talk to Bill if you need more explanation.

 

[camelcluch]

Following as I have been interested for a while.

 

[bowtech101st]

S35VN and S90V are martensitic stainless steels (14% chromium) and A2 is a tool steel (with 5% chromium). Stainless steels have better corrosion resistance whereas A2 has much higher toughness. A2 is often used in metal stamping dies for its unique combination of high hardness for edge retention and sharpness along with high toughness. With A2 we are able to have a knife that is .062" thick weighing only 1 ounce and still have great toughness. S35VN and S90V are excellent blade steels, but they need to be thicker and weigh more so they won't break doing comparable work. Also, S90V has a lot of very hard vanadium carbide particles which makes it much harder to sharpen, but also should hold an edge longer. The standard A2 heat treatment would include a single tempering. We add a cryogenic treatment to convert any retained austenite that could cause weak spots in the steel. We also triple temper to further improve toughness while maintaining high hardness for edge retention. After several months of development, we found this heat treatment process nearly doubled the break strength and toughness compared to the standard A2 process. A2 will get rust spots sooner than stainless steels so it's best to not leave it wet, but dry it off and wiping on mineral oil will further improve corrosion resistance. Personally, I can get a sharper edge on A2 steel compared to stainless blade steels but this is a bit subjective. Feel free to call our main number and ask to talk to Bill if you need more explanation.

Wow, I feel like I'm back in chemistry class again! Thank you so much Bill for your very detailed response, that was very enlightening and exactly what I was hoping for! I really appreciate you taking the time, because I'm a total novice when it comes to understanding the different steels and everything that sets quality knives apart. I will definitely take a hard look at the K1. I think what I find most appealing is the sharpened top edge for making cuts in the hide. Thanks again!