Iron Will inserts

[coohio1854]

Anyone have a problem with Iron Will inserts coming loose? I built some rampage’s with 25gr collars/inserts. So far shooting into my Mackenzie elk and other block targets 7 of the 12 came loose. I used the 2 part epoxy and insert tool they sell. I followed their instructional video about how to install them to a T. The thing is the tolerances on the inserts are so good that they spin but I can’t pull them out to clean them off and glue them again. I tried like hell to get these things out. They told me to try and knock them out from the back side but I’m doubting I’ll be able to do that without ruing the arrow. I lost 1 set already because they came out when I pulled the arrow out of the block. So now I have 6 arrows with loose inserts. 5 other for whatever reason seem good but I’m scared to keep shooting them. I’m running out of arrows to hunt with.


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[Mighty Mouse]

This video on IW's website makes no mention of dry fitting the HIT then pulling it back out to apply epoxy. The steps shown in that video are:

1. Score shaft
2. Clean shaft
3. Apply epoxy to HIT
4. Remove nock
5. Insert HIT halfway
6. Wipe away excess epoxy
7. Fully seat HIT
8. Remove install tool

Even though IW may not specifically recommend dry fitting HIT's before gluing, you should be able to do so without causing any problems. Are you saying that your HIT's are getting stuck inside the shaft during dry fitting? I find it hard to believe that a HIT could get stuck so tight with no adhesive that you couldn't either screw in a field point and pull it out or knock it out from the back.

Edited to fix broken link.

 

[doc holiday13]

I very likely could be your arrows... The black golf club epoxy worked on them. Other epoxy did not. Rampage arrows seem to have some sort of coating inside them that prevents adhesion. I now scour the inside of my shafts and hot melted the inserts and broadhead in. So far I haven't had an issue with that method

 

[coohio1854]

This video on IW's website makes no mention of dry fitting the HIT then pulling it back out to apply epoxy. The steps shown in that video are:

1. Score shaft
2. Clean shaft
3. Apply epoxy to HIT
4. Remove nock
5. Insert HIT halfway
6. Wipe away excess epoxy
7. Fully seat HIT
8. Remove install tool

Even though IW may not specifically recommend dry fitting HIT's before gluing, you should be able to do so without causing any problems. Are you saying that your HIT's are getting stuck inside the shaft during dry fitting? I find it hard to believe that a HIT could get stuck so tight with no adhesive that you couldn't either screw in a field point and pull it out or knock it out from the back.

Edited to fix broken link.

No. I’m saying they are coming loose after the epoxy has been set for quite a long time. I used the included Easton epoxy and just shooting into my targets the inserts come loose. I removed them with channel locks attached to my field point and you can see the dried epoxy in the grooves of the HIT insert


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[coohio1854]

I very likely could be your arrows... The black golf club epoxy worked on them. Other epoxy did not. Rampage arrows seem to have some sort of coating inside them that prevents adhesion. I now scour the inside of my shafts and hot melted the inserts and broadhead in. So far I haven't had an issue with that method

I think I am going to have to do the same. I lost several sets of inserts and collars inside of targets because I didn’t think it was going to keep happening but it did. Some of them that popped partly out I was able to pull them out attached to the field point with channel locks. I tried to re-glue them using the bohning glue but it set way too quick and I wasn’t able to seat them all the way. Now I have to buy more arrows, inserts, and collars. This is getting way too expensive


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[Mighty Mouse]

No. I’m saying they are coming loose after the epoxy has been set for quite a long time. I used the included Easton epoxy and just shooting into my targets the inserts come loose. I removed them with channel locks attached to my field point and you can see the dried epoxy in the grooves of the HIT insert


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I see. You could try the "drill bit trick": tape a plastic bag over the front end of the arrow, remove nock, insert a drill bit slightly smaller than the shaft, point the arrow up then fling it downward so the drill bit slides forward and slams into the rear of the insert. There's a chance you could mushroom the rear of the HIT using this method and cause a bulge or crack in the shaft. IW HIT's would be less likely to mushroom than an aluminum or brass HIT though.

If you do get them out, you might consider trying heat reversible glue ("hot melt") instead of epoxy. I've had good luck securing HIT's with Bohning Cool Flex and Kimsha. Best part about hot melt is that if you mess something up, you can easily undo it.

 

[gelton]

Here is what I do - get a heat gun or a torch and barely screw a fieldpoint into the insert and heat it up taking special care to stay away from the carbon - you just want the field tip to be hot enough so you can touch it for a few seconds before it starts burning your finger.

Then put the field tip in a vice and pull the arrow shaft. Works nearly every time. About 5% of the time some of the carbon will also pull out with the insert in which case the arrow is no longer good.

I have also used the rods on this chrono to pound them out from the nock end.

Competition Electronics ProChrono DLX Bluetooth Chronograph

The next generation of the ProChrono model based on a time proven design that has been measuring “almost anything that shoots” since 1985!...

www.midwayusa.com

If you don't have a chrono I bet one could find the replacement parts somehow.

 

[MattB]

If the inserts are already loose, I would try the drill bit trick to remove them. Might need to scuff up the inside of the shafts before re-installing. I prefer low temp hot melt myself.

 

[butcherboy]

I always use low temp hot melt. Make sure to clean the inside of the shaft as well. I’ve never had one pull out in a target or get loose inside the arrow. Makes it really easy to change inserts as well. Like everyone has said, try the drill bit trick or any heavy metal rod that will slide inside the arrow easily.

 

[Dave_S]

I'll second the opinion that it's something with the arrows. I've been running IW inserts in 5mm Easton Axis for close to a year and have had zero issues with the epoxy loosening up.

 

[Rober2wt]

using IW and other components... i score the inside of the shaft with a brass bore brush and then clean it out with acetone. ive also gotten into the habit of using bohning cool melt and everything (inserts, HIT inserts, and glue in points) so that i can remove and reuse components as i see fit. ive never had an insert move since adopting these steps.

 

[Jon_G]

Following

 

[GotDraw?]

I shoot Victory VAP 350 TKOs and have never had one pull out or spin after hundreds and hundreds of shots.

I also make darned sure to score the arrow well inside, clean with alcohol Qtip or Acetone until spotless. Usually takes 2-3 passes with 2-3 -tips. Then let dry (**ALSO BE SURE THERE'S NOT OIL IN THE ACETONE BECAUSE SOME HAS IT).

I also lightly score the inserts lengthwise with coarse sandpaper so they will grip the epoxy well and not turn.
Always been ROCK SOLID.

JL

 

[CMF]

Can someone post a link to the hot melt you're using?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Can someone post a link to the hot melt you're using?

These are the two I've used. Good results with both on many different insert and shaft combinations.

Kimsha Quick-Stick Point Glue

Check out the deal on Kimsha Quick-Stick Point Glue at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex Insert Glue

Check out the deal on Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex Insert Glue at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

 

[CMF]

These are the two I've used. Good results with both on many different insert and shaft combinations.

Kimsha Quick-Stick Point Glue

Check out the deal on Kimsha Quick-Stick Point Glue at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex Insert Glue

Check out the deal on Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex Insert Glue at 3Rivers Archery Supply

www.3riversarchery.com

thanks!

 

[Glenncb]

Can someone post a link to the hot melt you're using?

I have been using the glue that IW sells. I tried the Bohning stick and it did not work for me. Have been hot melting IW components into Axis 5mm arrows for a year now and have had 0 issues.