Iron Will accuracy help

[Bigtmiller]

So I got some IW solid 150’s. They consistently shooting 3 to 5 inches to the right. Same arrows with 150 FP are dead on. How should I fix?

 

[PathFinder]

If your bareshafts are pretty spot on at 20, I'd go ahead and just move the rest a hair. 1/32 at a time until they come together.

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[madkaw284]

So I got some IW solid 150’s. They consistently shooting 3 to 5 inches to the right. Same arrows with 150 FP are dead on. How should I fix?

What’re you shooting? Bow specs, arrow specs?


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[Trial153]

Right broadheads is a left tear indication. So you ...
Move your rest to right or
Twist the L yoke and untwist the right yoke ..or
You decrease the load on your cables (move the guard towards the arrow) or
You shim the cams to the left .

 

[Bigtmiller]

I have a PRIME c5. 72lbw. 29.5 dL. Shooting 250 axis with 150 grain Iron Will broadheads. So I moved the rest about 1/8th. Plus loosened the cable roller 1/2 turn. Now everything is grouping well. Still about 2”right but now I guess I just move my sight and all should be good? Thanks for the help.

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

I’d try and get them grouping together before adjusting the sight to broadheads. I have the same bow almost the same specs and I bareshaft tune at 20, if I get consistent bareshafts at 20 I’m good at all yardages with broadheads

 

[Ridge Ghost]

So I got some IW solid 150’s. They consistently shooting 3 to 5 inches to the right. Same arrows with 150 FP are dead on. How should I fix?

Are you sure your arrows are the correct spine to handle a heavy head? And are you sure you aren't torqueing the bow with your grip at the shot? Once you have determined that neither of these are the culprit, start moving your rest in tiny increments.

 

[Ridge Ghost]

I have a PRIME c5. 72lbw. 29.5 dL. Shooting 250 axis with 150 grain Iron Will broadheads. So I moved the rest about 1/8th. Plus loosened the cable roller 1/2 turn. Now everything is grouping well. Still about 2”right but now I guess I just move my sight and all should be good? Thanks for the help.

2" to the right at what distance? No, do not just move your sight. That's just a bandaid that doesn't actually fix the problem. Keep working until your bow is tuned.

 

[Bigtmiller]

So I moved my rest to the right more. Plus loosened the cable roller another turn. They are all grouping. Then I moved my sight and now they are all grouping good. My sight is pretty far to the right. When looking through the peep I can’t see part of the sight housing. But seems to be shooting good.

 

[dkime]

Depending on your time frame and number of hunts you have planned you could rock this setup for the season, otherwise I would have your local shop shim your top cam .005-.010" to the left.

 

[2blade]

Are you sure your arrows are the correct spine to handle a heavy head?

Sounds like this is the problem to me. I would try a 125gr and a 100gr head or maybe just a 100gr, both field points and a broadhead and see what happens. If they come together, this is the problem.

 

[Bill V]

Most customers say our broadheads shoot really well for them, but here are some potential issues to look out for that can make broadheads not fly as well as field points:

Fletch is too small. Broadheads have more surface area for pressure to act on at the front of your arrow, so you need more drag at the back of your arrow to maintain stability. Very small target fletchings may not work well. Something the size of Blazer Vanes, AAE Max Hunter, Max Stealth, or Heat vanes work well in my experience.

Straight Fletch. You want your arrow to spin to add stability and resist moving off track. I recommend at least 2 degrees helical or offset.

Under spined. This will cause excessive flexing of the arrow at the shot and can make broadheads fly poorly. I recommend optimal spine or slightly stiff.

FOC too low. Increasing FOC will increase stability. I personally like the 12-16% range.

Check bow setup issues like cam timing, cam lean, center shot position.

Bow grip torque. Have someone take a video over your shoulder of you shooting to see what the bow and arrow are doing at the shot. You can also pick up tuning issues this way like the arrow fish-tailing. The slow motion videos work pretty well on newer phones.

Bow tuning (arrow not coming straight out of bow). I paper tune to get a bullet hole at about 12 feet. I then also shoot a bare shaft and a fletched shaft at 20 & 30 yards and make small adjustment as needed to get them to hit close the same spot with the shafts parallel.

Head not spinning true. Spin each arrow to see if the tip stays on center or wobbles side to side which will cause poor flight. The arrow, insert, or broadhead could be the cause.

Good luck and let me know if I can help.

 

[Bigtmiller]

thanks for all the replies. So my arrow setup is - Axis 250, so I think they are enough spine. FOC is about 14%. Using AAE Max veins. Total arrow weight is 520. Shooting 72lbs. 29.5 draw length. 150 grain Iron Will solids. I thought I had it dialed in last night. I moved back to 30 yards from 20 this morning and they were 4 inches to the right again. At 20 they are good. 30 and 40 they move to the right. I do not have a prime dealer real close, plus I leave on Friday morning for New Mexico, ELK hunt. I am going o try my local bow shop and see what they can do. Getting frustrated. I have used Iron Wills before. Last year they shot perfect out of the Bowtech Insanity. No tuning needed. I did try some of the my 125 grains that I have. They still shot right, just like the 150's. Should I try moving the rest to the left? I have heard both move left or move to the right. I moved to the right.

 

[kboatman107]

It’s been my experience if the BHs hit right you move the rest to the left. I’d trying moving the rest to the left and see what happens.

 

[Ridge Ghost]

Move the rest to the left. Rule of thumb is to follow your field points. I would go back to your original rest position and start moving it further left, 1/32 at a time.

The one thing I can tell you is that this has nothing to do with the brand of broadheads, as your thread title might suggest. Iron Wills are great heads, and along with most broadheads on the market, will group the same as field points out of a tuned bow.

 

[Bigtmiller]

Thank you. I was not implying that the problem was Iron Will heads. I have used them for 3 years now. This is the first bow I have had any issues with. I will give it a try tonight. Thanks!

 

[madkaw284]

Thank you. I was not implying that the problem was Iron Will heads. I have used them for 3 years now. This is the first bow I have had any issues with. I will give it a try tonight. Thanks!

I hesitate even posting this because I know how quickly it will get out of hand, but if your broadheads are hitting right, move your rest to the right or add twists to left yoke(s) or shim cams to the left.


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[Gumbo]

I hesitate even posting this because I know how quickly it will get out of hand, but if your broadheads are hitting right, move your rest to the right or add twists to left yoke(s) or shim cams to the left.


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Here we go, the debate spills into yet another thread.

 

[Ag111]

Hahaha. Love these threads. The people who know how to tune archery gear know that moving the rest is not the first thing to do. If it’s binary cam, go to factory specs for center shot and shim cams until bareshafts fly perfect. If hybrid, yoke tune while the rest is as factory spec center shot. Once that is done, maybe nudge the rest a smidge depending on the BH vs FP impact. BH right is left tear, move rest to right. Ask me how many years of frustration it took me to figure this simple process out? I only laugh at myself because I made it so much harder on myself.

And it is almost never the broadhead.