Investarms Flintlock Issue

[fellas2]

I have an Investarms 50 cal flintlock that i've owned for years, and when i hunt with it i run into the same problem every time out. The fit between the lock and pan assembly and the stock leaves a lot to be desired, When i fill the pan with 4F powder, it invariably makes it;s way out of the pan and down the opening and end up in the trigger housing. If i shoot the rifle, all the powder that has managed to find it's way down inside ignites and it ain't pretty. Any suggestions on sealing that gap between the metal and the wood ?

 

[FrontierGander]

inlet the lock or put a seal of bees wax between lock and stock.

 

[fellas2]

I never thought of something like beeswax. Do you think it will hold up to the heat from the flashpan ? The only other idea i had wad rifle bedding material, but i've never messed with it and would hate to screw something up.

 

[Squincher]

The usual problem is a gap between the pan and the barrel, not the pan and the lock, and that is fixed by inletting the lock a little deeper to eliminate the gap. I'm having trouble visualizing a gap between the pan and lock, but if that is the case, I'd try to find a better quality aftermarket lock.

 

[Felix40]

I had the same issue and had to take a little wood off to get the lock to sit closer to the barrel. The problem with filling the gap with something is that you will still have a gap on top between the frizzen and barrel.

Use something like chalk or shoe polish on the lock to tell where it’s contacting the wood.

 

[HighUintas]

If the fit between the frizzen cover and pan is poor and you can see a gap, take some cheap red lipstick, or black shoe polish, and put a super thin coat on the frizzen cover. Then close the frizzen and give it a couple gentle taps with a piece of wood or something similar. Open it and see where the color transferred to around the pan. Those are high spots and should be removed. Use wet/dry paper wrapped on a small flathead screwdriver or needle file and remove a tiny bit o metal where the color is. Repeat the process until you get color transfer all the way around the pan.

 

[long hunter]

Its a fitment issue of the lock plate into the the lock mortise in the stock or as stated as cast ridge on the frizen or pan, a bit of extra metal from the factory. Follow the above two mentioned suggestions and go dead slow checking often as to the fit. It dosent take much. I personally would not use bees wax as a gasket. My bet is theres a bit to much wood in the mortise where the lock goes. Also how tight you drawing the lock bolts.

 

[jayhawk]

You can also us an old candle to blacken the metal (inletting blue works well also). Coat the inside of the lock, reinstall, give a firm tap, remove the lock, see where it's contacting the wood, then remove a little wood at a time until it seats tightly against the barrel. It's a process but it makes a big difference.

 

[HighUintas]

In addition to a candle, I've used burning masking tape to soot up parts and it works great. Very sooty

 

[Ol’ Cheebs]

Great responses here.

 

[EdP]

A bit of beeswax is good to use even on a rifle that has a tight fit between the barrel and lockplate. With a tight fit powder granules can't get into the lock internals but powder residue may still blow by, Beeswax will stop that. Without a photo it is impossible to know how bad your situation is, but the suggestions above on fixing the fit is the place to start.