Indestructible arrow build

Warmsy

Warmsy

WKR
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
555
Location
Mendocino County
Just tuned my bow with a new string. Wanted to share my indestructible arrow build because I know it gets asked sometimes. Shot this broad head at 25 yards, missed my target, and hit the metal leg of a chair. Broad head buried about 1/8" into metal, arrow shaft bounced back about 10 yards, can't find the nock. Shaft is fine. If this wasn't a practice broad head, it would just need a touch up. 45# bow.

Easton axis traditional only shafts
Iron will hit inserts, hot glued in
Iron will impact collars, epoxied on
Cutthroat broadhead

With blunts, I shoot these arrows at rocks, knots in trees...I went through a few different arrows before I settled upon this system and I'm never looking back.

Hope this helps someone build an indestructible arrow.
 

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IME, hit a rock after passing through a critter and sometimes the arrow is toast collars or not.
After trying all sorts of fancy setups I have gone back to a 9-10gpi carbon shaft with std components. I do a lot of stump shooting and I just don’t break enough arrows to justify the additional cost of VERY expensive components.

It seems to me, some of the guys that have these very expensive arrow setups don’t want to shoot them at grouse or stay sharp shooting them in the woods.
 
Warmsy said:
Just tuned my bow with a new string. Wanted to share my indestructible arrow build because I know it gets asked sometimes. Shot this broad head at 25 yards, missed my target, and hit the metal leg of a chair. Broad head buried about 1/8" into metal, arrow shaft bounced back about 10 yards, can't find the nock. Shaft is fine. If this wasn't a practice broad head, it would just need a touch up. 45# bow.

Easton axis traditional only shafts
Iron will hit inserts, hot glued in
Iron will impact collars, epoxied on
Cutthroat broadhead

With blunts, I shoot these arrows at rocks, knots in trees...I went through a few different arrows before I settled upon this system and I'm never looking back.

Hope this helps someone build an indestructible arrow.
Click to expand...
I know this is traditional archery, but ill second the IW components. Have collars and inserts in fmjs. Hit wood and still spin true and usable.
 
Beendare said:
IME, hit a rock after passing through a critter and sometimes the arrow is toast collars or not.
After trying all sorts of fancy setups I have gone back to a 9-10gpi carbon shaft with std components. I do a lot of stump shooting and I just don’t break enough arrows to justify the additional cost of VERY expensive components.

It seems to me, some of the guys that have these very expensive arrow setups don’t want to shoot them at grouse or stay sharp shooting them in the woods.
Click to expand...
I tried maybe 8 different shafts, inserts, outserts, broadhaed adaptor rings... Kept breaking and having to buy more arrows. The expensive components have already paid for themselves in my case. I go roving once or twice a week, usually. Hunt quail squirrel and rabbits through them. Haven't shot through any big game yet so you may be right on that. Any other setup of have gone through at least 4 dozen arrows, vs. the 6 I've been using. Just bought 6 more anyway.
 
Beendare said:
IME, hit a rock after passing through a critter and sometimes the arrow is toast collars or not.
After trying all sorts of fancy setups I have gone back to a 9-10gpi carbon shaft with std components. I do a lot of stump shooting and I just don’t break enough arrows to justify the additional cost of VERY expensive components.

It seems to me, some of the guys that have these very expensive arrow setups don’t want to shoot them at grouse or stay sharp shooting them in the woods.
Click to expand...
Some of the guys with the cheap ones don't want to either lmao.
 
Warmsy said:
Just tuned my bow with a new string. Wanted to share my indestructible arrow build because I know it gets asked sometimes. Shot this broad head at 25 yards, missed my target, and hit the metal leg of a chair. Broad head buried about 1/8" into metal, arrow shaft bounced back about 10 yards, can't find the nock. Shaft is fine. If this wasn't a practice broad head, it would just need a touch up. 45# bow.

Easton axis traditional only shafts
Iron will hit inserts, hot glued in
Iron will impact collars, epoxied on
Cutthroat broadhead

With blunts, I shoot these arrows at rocks, knots in trees...I went through a few different arrows before I settled upon this system and I'm never looking back.

Hope this helps someone build an indestructible arrow.
Click to expand...
This very close to my setup, bomb proof.
 
I make my collars from destroyed Aluminums found on every 3D course I shoot, 'cause I'm cheap that way.
I also put a 1/4" collar on the nock end. That's a little trick I picked up at the original Muzzy shoot in the Catskills. IF you can get through that course with all your arrows still in shootable condition then I'll believe they're truly indestructible. :)
 
Sapcut said:
Yes, I make them for Kustom King and Sirius Archery as well. Although only 2" long. The ones I use are 6-8" single footings with a smaller double footing to slide over adapter behind broadhead.

View attachment 576306
Click to expand...
What the what! Double footed, that's some serious horsepower you got there. If you had to guess what would you say that does to the spine of thr arrow, like say you started with a 400
 
TaterTot said:
What the what! Double footed, that's some serious horsepower you got there. If you had to guess what would you say that does to the spine of thr arrow, like say you started with a 400
Click to expand...
Stiffening the spine is the second reason I use long footings.... after strength. The long 8" footing allows me keep a long 31.5" shaft after adding a heavy 300 gr head, 200 gr adapter to a 300 spine shaft. Resulting in a tuned, heavy and 30+% FOC bomber. Nothing ever fails on any bone hit or less.

I think it will change a 400 to a 300 spine but I've never measured it.
 
My setup is about 20 yrs old and has served me well. That said I just recently tweaked it a little. CE Heritage 350 (I know they quit making them but GT Trads are almost as good) with 50 brass insert and 175 tips. That in itself is very robust but I added a Toparchery collar (5gr) and I haven't shroomed a shaft yet (knock on wood). Everything except fletching is assembled with hot melt so easy to save components. Most of my shooting isn't at a "target" but rather chasing a tennis ball around the yard or stumpin'.
 
I am also a big fan of the Easton axis arrow. I thought they were indestructible as well until I Robin Hooded one this week.
 
Anyone willing to make a step by step diagram on how to do this? Or is there a YouTube link?
Interested in building some myself
 
A collar on the nock end is necessary if you pound rocks or hard trees. I've flattened a vpa hunter head and had nocks vanish but not bust the rear of the shaft.
 
Ethics on a carbon make them stupid tough. You'll bend the point before you break the arrow. Not sure how a field point shank can bend inside the insert but I've done it several times.
 
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