If the SWFA 3-15x42 was illuminated, I would have 6 of them.

Also the lack of zero stop, the long exposed windage turret, mediocre glass quality and lack of numerical ID in the reticle...

I know there's work arounds for some of this. I used to own 3 of these and now I'm just down to 1. I will say that I've never had a gun lose zero with them, but over the last year I've started to look around at other stuff.
 
Why oh why didn't they illuminate that model. It's literally the perfect scope otherwise.

#endrant
This is not intended to be critical of what you are saying, but can you tell me what sort of conditions your are needing that illumination for? The SWFA reticle is one of the best designs out there for use in low light. If you can’t make out that reticle, it’s too dark to legally shoot.

I’ve got the 3-15, 6x, and 3-9 and have hunted extensively with them. I’ve never had an issue using them up to the 30 minutes before sunrise or after sunset. In fact, I shot a doe last fall in dense shaded woods with the 6x at about 3 minutes after the start of legal shooting light.

Honestly though, I find most illuminated reticles to be a hindrance than a help. Most illuminate too much, and the bloom makes it harder to see your target. I’ve owned 3 Illuminated scopes and have not felt the need to use the illumination in hunting conditions unless their reticles were too fine to make out. My personal take is that illumination is an extra complication that we aren’t as likely to need as we might think.
 
Also the lack of zero stop, the long exposed windage turret, mediocre glass quality and lack of numerical ID in the reticle...

I know there's work arounds for some of this. I used to own 3 of these and now I'm just down to 1. I will say that I've never had a gun lose zero with them, but over the last year I've started to look around at other stuff.
Gen 2 has entered the chat.

But realistically a budget scope can’t hit every damn feature under the sun. At least not with reliability.
 
I'm not clear what this is -- numbers next to the subtensions?
Yes. I really like being able to verify my windage holds during crunch time. Triangles and lines aren't hard to remember while practicing but my brain tends to get pretty fuzzy when I have very limited time to shoot. Numerical references make me feel better.
 
I have a gen2. The glass is fine, not great not bad. The reticle however is too thick. Add illumination and the Eagleman reticle that is in the Tract Toric HD and you would have a great scope.
 
Also the lack of zero stop, the long exposed windage turret, mediocre glass quality and lack of numerical ID in the reticle...
Gen 2 has awesome zero stop, windage is long, but they added the capped feature. Glass is good enough. And you don’t need numerical ID in a reticle. And no, the Eagleman reticle is not a good hunting reticle. What else would you like in a reliable, drop-proven scope for $750 that’s made in Japan?
 
Gen 2 has awesome zero stop, windage is long, but they added the capped feature. Glass is good enough. And you don’t need numerical ID in a reticle. And no, the Eagleman reticle is not a good hunting reticle. What else would you like in a reliable, drop-proven scope for $750 that’s made in Japan?
Not interested in lacing up the gloves. I just merely commented on some other features that I think were lacking from the OG 3-15 SWFA. Not looking to ruffle some Team SWFA feathers here. I've spent a lot of time with them. At one point I had a SWFA on every rifle I owned.
 
Not interested in lacing up the gloves. I just merely commented on some other features that I think were lacking from the OG 3-15 SWFA. Not looking to ruffle some Team SWFA feathers here. I've spent a lot of time with them. At one point I had a SWFA on every rifle I owned.
Man I wasn’t putting on the gloves either. Just asking, how much do you want from one of the best values on the market?
 
Ok so here's where I'm at (I haven't tried the gen 2 yet), the glass is "good enough" and I made it work for years. But I've looked through enough scopes of similar or less price that had noticeably better quality in low light. I capped my windages with a rubber cap so that was a non issue. I put plastic washers under the zero stop so that solved that. I drew a little diagram of the reticle on my backup drop chart so I could double check. I wrapped tape around the turret for a BDC.

It just started feeling cobbled together. I kept one so I can go back if needed, but I'm currently dabbling around to see what else is out there.

I picked up an Arken EPL-4 for $313 to play with. So far it's awesome. The zero retention is still TBD. It's riding on my 22 creed that gets hauled around all fall for deer or predators. I'll see how it fares. So far it's held zero....

Kinda waiting on the S2H scope to come out to see what that's all about.
 
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