If not CDS, then what?

[BCD]

I have a SWFA 3-15x42 I got used for $350. I'd watch for a used SWFA scope if you want to go that route. I prefer a capped windage turret, elevation turret to for that matter. I can forget about the turrets while hunting unless I need to dial elevation that way. It's a bit higher than your price range, but I was quoted $730 for a Huskemaw 3-12x by a place if I didn't pay by card. PM me if you want their info. I don't know if I will get them in trouble posting it or not, Huskemaw might have manufacturer set pricing.

Mine has dialed reliably since I got it. I did a few searches on the internet recently for problems with Huskemaw and did not find anything on their tracking. Some people don't like the way they were marketed and some think their glass is inferior for their price point, but I didn't find anything bad about their tracking. I'm sure there are examples of them failing but it must not be to prevalent.

Wow That’s a great price on the SWFA. Did you buy it off of the classifieds here?

 

[KurtR]

Your custom turret in wisconsin is no good for where you go elk hunting with a change in elevation comes a change in you shooting solutions.

 

[Wrench]

IMO you can actually go with both if you buy a scope that comes with the Mil turret and order a custom. I used the mil turret until I settled on a load then ordered the custom. If I want to shoot something different out of the same gun then I simply put the mil turret back on.

Even with a mil turret I would actually very dope at each range. I have a vortex viper that actually over corrects from what the mil graduations are on the scope.

So far I have not had any issues with my Leopoldo CDS on my Abolt 300 WSM. Make sure you have accurate info on your ammo and it will help. Advertised muzzle velocities are rarely accurate from my experience.


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You're going to see this from many cheap scopes. What you're seeing is a tracking error in rtz OR a percentage of correction error. It's EXACTLY why I say to forget about the custom turret and so the math. You may find that you get 1.05 mils instead of 1.0.....or you may get .95.

THE ONLY WAY TO KNOW IS TO KNOW.

with ANY scope, take it to 100 and make a known amount of maximum correction for the biggest target you can shoot (36"....etc) and shoot it and measure it. If you came up 36 inches and you group came up 36 then your correction factor is 1.0. If it's heavy or light....do the math and know what a click is worth.

Once you know, input the correction factor into your data and that is your new 1.0.

Sounds complicated, but it's easy and it's your responsibility if you want to shoot at long range.

 

[Yellowknife]

with ANY scope, take it to 100 and make a known amount of maximum correction for the biggest target you can shoot (36"....etc) and shoot it and measure it. If you came up 36 inches and you group came up 36 then your correction factor is 1.0. If it's heavy or light....do the math and know what a click is worth.

I'm do math occasionally, so I have to step in and make this more complicated.

What Wrench says is correct, but the majority of scopes (particularly the ones you dial) aren't marked in inches, but rather MOA or Mils. Most people will roughly equate 1 MOA to 1" at 100 yds, and assume it's close enough. That is true for measuring groups, but not really for dialing large numbers. If you dialed 36 MOA you SHOULD see 37.7" on the 100 yd target using 1 MOA = 1.047" @ 100.

You also need to fairly accurately measure the distance and apply a correction factor it its more than a couple yards +/- from 100. For example, the "100 yd berm" at my local range is really 104 yds. Means nothing to a guy sighting in, but for a tall target test, I have to multiply by 1.04 Now my 36 MOA should be measuring 39.2" between group centers.

If I had just dialed "36" on the turret and expected to see 36" between group centers, I would have been pretty disappointed in my scope tracking.

 

[KurtR]

Also some scopes compound as you get more to the end of the adjustments so you need to know that. Just deciding i want to shoot five hundred yards is more than buying a gun and scope.

 

[BCD]

Also some scopes compound as you get more to the end of the adjustments so you need to know that. Just deciding i want to shoot five hundred yards is more than buying a gun and scope.

Understood! That’s why I’m here trying to learn. I’m getting more confused lol. I thought the CDS might be the simple solution. My first trip is in the fall of 2020

 

[Fatcamp]

It may be sacrilege, but I really have an easier time understanding MOA over MIL. I get my math done either way, but MOA is just easier to wrap my brain around.

 

[30338]

Just shot this rig this weekend. Factory 135 Berger ammo was under .5" at 100 yards and 2750 fps. Zero was easy since tracking is dead nuts on with the SWFA 6x. Zeroed, then dialed up Ballistic AE on phone. Plugged in my zero altitude, temp, bc, and velocity. Used the drop chart to make first round hits and very small groups at 300, 400 and 500 yards. All within the first box of 20 factory rounds.

If you were traveling to CO to hunt at 10,000 feet. Change altitude in Ballistic AE, print chart, tape to stock and go hunting. Its really easy.

 

[wannakillabigbull]

I thought the CDS might be the simple solution.

An elevated turret system like a CDS is a simple solution, you just have to know how to use it correctly. There's no scope you can buy where you're going to be able to blindly dial a scope to some number and shoot. You're going to have to get a good hold on ballistics, and how environmental conditions change bullet flight, in order to use a turret system effectively at longer range. That can be as simple as a dope chart you tape to your rifle, but you still are going to have to do the math.

 

[KurtR]

Understood! That’s why I’m here trying to learn. I’m getting more confused lol. I thought the CDS might be the simple solution. My first trip is in the fall of 2020

Go to the longrange section here and start reading then get the check book ready as if you get hooked it only gets more addictive and expensive.

 

[rhusby28]

Vortex Viper PST Gen 2. I like the FFP MOA model. You can save a little if you buy the SFP model. Has both elevation and windage turrets with a zero stop. I like and own 2 of the Gen 1 versions, but the Gen 2 scopes have way better glass. Vortex just dropped their pricing by $100 on these also.

 

[bdan68]

If you want simple get a Leupold with the Long Range Duplex reticle, the Boone & Crockett reticle, or the tri-MOA on the new Freedom scopes. No dialing needed. Just range the distance to your target and use the appropriate holdover mark.

 

[KurtR]

If you want simple get a Leupold with the Long Range Duplex reticle, the Boone & Crockett reticle, or the tri-MOA on the new Freedom scopes. No dialing needed. Just range the distance to your target and use the appropriate holdover mark.

Still have to make sure your reticle is calibrated to the power setting

 

[bdan68]

Still have to make sure your reticle is calibrated to the power setting

Yeah, just set it to max power. That's all you have to do. Which you'd be using the max power anyway. I have the Long Range Duplex on all my rifles. Very simple and fast, and gets me out to 500 yards if I need to shoot that far. Which I haven't yet, in 35 years of hunting, my longest shot has been 350 yards.


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[KurtR]

Yeah, just set it to max power. That's all you have to do. Which you'd be using the max power anyway. I have the Long Range Duplex on all my rifles. Very simple and fast, and gets me out to 500 yards if I need to shoot that far. Which I haven't yet, in 35 years of hunting, my longest shot has been 350 yards.


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thats not the case. Have you checked the measurements on it against a tall target. I have seen multiple scopes that the power was off on where the manufacture said that it was calibrated to. How do you know it gets you to 500 if you have never shot that far in 35 years of hunting?

 

[Marine4life]

Yeah, just set it to max power. That's all you have to do. Which you'd be using the max power anyway. I have the Long Range Duplex on all my rifles. Very simple and fast, and gets me out to 500 yards if I need to shoot that far. Which I haven't yet, in 35 years of hunting, my longest shot has been 350 yards.


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I disagree with stating you would be using max power. If you are in rain, snow,sleet, fog or have heavy heat mirage max power can make the target very unclear.


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[BCD]

If you want simple get a Leupold with the Long Range Duplex reticle, the Boone & Crockett reticle, or the tri-MOA on the new Freedom scopes. No dialing needed. Just range the distance to your target and use the appropriate holdover mark.

How are the holdover lines calibrated to my specific caliber, bullet weight, etc?

Thank you!

If you want simple get a Leupold with the Long Range Duplex reticle, the Boone & Crockett reticle, or the tri-MOA on the new Freedom scopes. No dialing needed. Just range the distance to your target and use the appropriate holdover mark.

How are the reticles calibrated to your specific caliber, velocity, etc??

 

[Thomas11]

How are the holdover lines calibrated to my specific caliber, bullet weight, etc?

Thank you!


How are the reticles calibrated to your specific caliber, velocity, etc??

My understanding is they aren’t! I think u just have to shoot them and see which hashes apply at a certain distance given your setup, but I could b wrong . I’m in the market myself for a scope that will get me to 500 or 600 yds. And I’m lost as what to get! Lol

 

[30338]

You may want to find someone close to you that shoots a bit. Its not too hard really. Good luck.

 

[bdan68]

I disagree with stating you would be using max power. If you are in rain, snow,sleet, fog or have heavy heat mirage max power can make the target very unclear.


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I've never had an issue. I always turn my scope up to 9x for any shot from 100 yards out.


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