I want to start shooting a traditional set up. Where to start?

[inyago]

Go ILF its more logical.Theres plenty of reasonable quality risers around, either new or used and the same for limbs.
You want say a set of 30/35 pound and a set of 50/55 lbs.The lighter limbs will allow you to really work your form which is more involved than a 4 letter word.Look forward to every day being a learning experience.And some coaching really helps.

 

[Kevin Dill]

Finding a good archery coach is like finding a half-ounce gold nugget. Some folks think they can coach but that's a talent unto itself. I know how to shoot my longbow and I think I can instruct a guy correctly....but spotting things, critiquing, and then coaching to the next level is hard to do. Most of us just end up shooting with others and learning as we go.

One thing I've always hung my hat on: You should not be shooting a bow which controls you. You control the bow, and that means one thing primarily: strength. A guy can start with a bow of reasonable poundage but he needs to be strong enough to fully draw, anchor and control his release....before he starts shooting arrows and thinking about results.

 

[RickH]

I started just like you 30 years ago with trad. Before that I was shooting a PSE compound. I was going to college near a custom bowyer named G. Fred Asbell and Bighorn Bows. Ordered one way too heavy 65# @28". My draw length shortened from the compound luckily so I wasn't pulling 65# to my anchor. I learned to shoot it and still have it along with several other recurves and a couple longbows. It definitely would've been better to start with a much lighter bow and probably wouldn't have the shoulder problems I'm having today.
Something to consider if you order one is that the poundage marked on the bow is usually at 28"draw. Custom bows can be built fairly close to your specs. I draw to the corner of my mouth with my middle finger. I'm sure there are some good videos to help you determine your draw length. Also, get the right spined arrows for your bow. Most arrow manufacturer spine charts have a recurve section to determine your spine. I shoot carbon arrows just because for me they are easier to tune and are pretty tough.
Most of all have fun learning and figuring out your new equipment.

 

[Cy14561]

I started Trad 10 years ago, and did it all wrong at first no instruction and too heavy a bow. get and it really set me back, I also spent thousands on different bows. Do yourself a favor and get a manageable weight bow 40 ponds or so, spend your money on instruction at first. I also took joel turners course to to really gain control of my shot, it was the best 200 bucks I ever spent in archery. Once your form and mental game are on point, then u can really start enjoying shooting a Trad bow. and then you can go broke buying buying bows. Haha

 

[Grabwad]

My advice would be to find a 3D shoot if possible.. 98% of guys that shoot trad bows will allow you to shoot their bow.

For me, I got a bow and learned how to hold it for it to shoot like I wanted. I eventually found a grip that fits my hand better so it was more natural for me to grab and shoot.

You can absolutely get any used or cheap bow to see if this is what you really like, just be sure your arrows are properly matched so that you get good flight then you can go from there.

an indoor or 3d shoot will provide you with some experience on what type of bow or grip you like and you conversation with other shooters should give you some base info before spending money..

 

[Montana Slim]

Trad means different things to different people... I am personally not into the aluminum risers, and like a r/d or D longbow with woodies. Some like a heavy riser recurve and there's no overlooking the convenience and durability of carbons - To each his own though and you will just have to figger where you fit on the 'spectrum'. It is addicting once you're hooked
The importance of matching arrows (to your bow not necessarily each other) has already been stated, and this is where having someone knowledgeable around would be most beneficial. I will break from others and say that worrying about perfect form is not top priority as long as you don't start waaay too heavy like a lot of guys. Shooting a lot and keeping it FUN is top. If you buy used bows, you can horse trade around and try lots of different styles, for not a lot money. A light bow may not be macho, but it will sure be fun to learn on, and you can always trade it or sell it later. I'd go for something around 40-45 lbs at whatever your draw is and get help with some arrows. Then shoot and shoot and shoot and have a blast.

 

[Kevin Dill]

There are definitely cookie cutter formulas for learning how to shoot a bow. That doesn't mean everyone wants to follow a formula, or end up a cookie.

 

[Recurveaholic]

The main thing is don't start with too much weight you will develop some bad habits that are hard to fix! Even if you shot a 70lb compound it is a world of difference between that and one with no wheels!!!! Start with the sage at lower poundage and later you can get higher poundage limbs for it!! Work on good form and go from there!!

 

[oldgoat]

And proper form isn't just for shooting accurate, it's also to protect your body from damage and keep you shooting till you're to old to leave the house!

 

[Ddog]

Good advice given. Another option I hear mostly good things about are the Galaxy Ember/Black Hunter bows on Amazon for around $100. Order a low poundage bow and order heavier limbs as you gain strength. 5# at a time would be ideal.

 

[Kentucky]

I would go for a metal ilf Riser. Some have changeable grips, different options for arrow rests, quivers, sights if you wanted. You can pick one up used and change out limbs as you develop your form. Good this about it is that once you find a riser and grip you like then you can just change limbs as needed and Won’t have to relearn a different grip or sight window of a one piece bow..

once descent for is achieved then you must have properly tuned arrows to accurately shoot broadheads..

For something so simple, it can get very complex achieving good form and a properly tuned rig capable of ethical hunting.

 

[plentycoupe]

I’m another that will advise a light bow to start with. I have owned tons of high end bows and love them! Currently shooting a Stalker with a Blacktail in order. All in the 45-60lbs range......
However comma I really wanted to lock in a better form and shooting technique this last year as I blew ANOTHER shot on a deer last year.
I bought a 30lbs cheap recurve for $30 bucks off of OfferUp, found the proper spines arrows and have been shooting it A LOT. Man has my shooting improved!!!(it is not as smooth or fast or pretty as my other bows, BUT it has helped me shoot EVERYTHING MUCH BETTER I spent a couple hours shooting it with a friend last night. It’s easy to shoot all day and not loose your form.
I’m in the camp...sure wished I had done that 20 years ago.
I would also suggest Tom Clums Solid Archery Mechanics or find a coach up there. You might as well start with the best knowledge brother.
I killed a moose and bears up there in AK with my 50lbs bows as well as watched friends do it. I totally believe a well crafted arrow makes up for added bow weight.
anyway that’s my 2 cents.

 

[Newtosavage]

I started just like you 30 years ago with trad. Before that I was shooting a PSE compound. I was going to college near a custom bowyer named G. Fred Asbell and Bighorn Bows. Ordered one way too heavy 65# @28". My draw length shortened from the compound luckily so I wasn't pulling 65# to my anchor. I learned to shoot it and still have it along with several other recurves and a couple longbows. It definitely would've been better to start with a much lighter bow and probably wouldn't have the shoulder problems I'm having today.
Something to consider if you order one is that the poundage marked on the bow is usually at 28"draw. Custom bows can be built fairly close to your specs. I draw to the corner of my mouth with my middle finger. I'm sure there are some good videos to help you determine your draw length. Also, get the right spined arrows for your bow. Most arrow manufacturer spine charts have a recurve section to determine your spine. I shoot carbon arrows just because for me they are easier to tune and are pretty tough.
Most of all have fun learning and figuring out your new equipment.

My story is nearly identical. Sold the PSE compound in the 80's to go trad and started with a 62# Assenheimer custom that someone sold me because it was too heavy for them. Well, it was too heavy for me too, but I didn't know that at the time and I went on to snap-shoot and short-draw for 15+ years before I ever learned the right way to shoot. Some guys short-draw and snap-shoot and think it IS the right way to shoot, because everyone around them is doing the same thing. LOL Well, a person can shoot that way. But seldom is it the best way for them to shoot - they just don't know any better.

 

[MrTim]

From experience, I Like the Black Hunter hybrid longbow over the Samick sage style bows. It’s cheaper too. Get one in 35-45 lbs. Learn to shoot it and learn the arrow tuning process. It will be nice to have when you want to practice your shooting form(or change it) in the future too.

 

[Newtosavage]

One comment about tuning - trying to learn to tune a stickbow that is not cut very close to center (as are most longbows) can be incredibly frustrating for a beginner. That's why I usually recommend a Samick Sage or comparable cut-to-center recurve for starters. They are much more forgiving of spine than a longbow, and therefore easier to learn how to tune.

 

[Tradit]

I started about 3 years ago with the help of a friend. I think I've bought at least 8 used bows since then and sold all but 3. If you buy right, you can sell for as much as you paid for them. Other times more or a little less. Out of all those 8 bows, I might be down $200. And if I wasn't as compulsive as I am, I'm sure I could have come out ahead because there's lots of compulsive buyers out there. Selling them isn't quite as fun, but there are plenty of buyers here, other forums, and on several FB pages. I still have the 2nd or 3rd bow I bought, a black widow PFT. It's my fav and I even bought a lighter PFT since then because my shoulder was giving me trouble with the higher poundage of the first.

It's not necessary, but if you can afford to be out of the cash for a bit, buying a variety of bows to try out is kind of fun. I started out shooing a couple lighter poundage recurves including a Bear Grizzly, which has a medium high grip, and a Kohanna Kurve with a 50's style sort of grip., completely different. I'd shoot one for a few weeks and then another for few and then go back. If you have your form down pretty good, it doesn't take too long to get fairly accurate. Lessons from a reputable instructor would be ideal to avoid developing bad habits, which can be very difficult to break.

 

[howl]

You can get a feel for it just rolling your compound over and letting er rip. I used to shoot with a fella who shot Oneida compounds instinctive. Misses were spectacular.

If you like it I suggest a Samick Sage with 30# limbs and cheap wooden arrows from Twig Archery. I would cheat with a stick on rest to get good arrow flight out of that set up. Work on your form and release until you're good there.

Then get heavier limbs, maybe 50# max. Switch to shooting off the shelf if you want. Settle in with that for targets before getting a hunting bow, again not too heavy. The Samick with both limbs is still only like $200. Hunting bows...sky's the limit.

There's no real need for a light, short hunting bow to be a heavy draw weight unless you just want it.

 

[DenverBulls]

I just posted a samick with 25 and 40lb limbs. I started there personally 1 year ago, killed a cow elk with a 46lb longbow this fall. Never going back to a compound and I’m selling my muzzleloader. It quickly becomes all you care about! Check the classifieds if you’re interested in the samick.

 

[Demunds]

Agree with a 35# Sage.

 

[iashow]

I started with a few older traditional archery books, but when I watched the The Push's Traditional Archery Film on YouTube, I really got the bug.