I love cheap arrows

[Swampcruiser]

I was going to say I love Black Eagle Outlaws when I take the time to build them cutting from both ends and squaring. Killer arrows. Then I see that’s not what this thread is about, oh well there it is.

 

[Button]

I like arrows that I don’t shoot into tall grass or go underground. Never to be found with a metal detector but with the mower.

 

[doverpack12]

For me arrows with wider tolerances “cheap” generally shoot fine maybe not great with field points. I build my own from shafts.
Biggest difference is when you start shooting fixed blades, they can and will shoot well just might take some mixing and matching arrows to heads and even then an arrow that spins might be off on spine and still not fly.
I tend to buy used arrows in a big batch of 18 plus and pay $5-6 per arrow including shipping and transaction fees. I just look in advance of needing arrows and am patient. With tighter tolerance arrows I avoid the messing around shooting fixed heads and generally when I screw a fixed head on, confirm it spins true, it also shoots true out to 80 or 90 yards. I shoot every broadhead arrow before I hunt with it and do not remove the head after confirming.

OP you are either a great shooter or expectations match arrow performance. I expect to hit the spot I aim for. I have increased arrow tolerance quality over the years and each time has resulted in a correlating accuracy gain.

Nothing wrong with less expensive arrows though.

 

[Mikido]

For me arrows with wider tolerances “cheap” generally shoot fine maybe not great with field points. I build my own from shafts.
Biggest difference is when you start shooting fixed blades, they can and will shoot well just might take some mixing and matching arrows to heads and even then an arrow that spins might be off on spine and still not fly.
I tend to buy used arrows in a big batch of 18 plus and pay $5-6 per arrow including shipping and transaction fees. I just look in advance of needing arrows and am patient. With tighter tolerance arrows I avoid the messing around shooting fixed heads and generally when I screw a fixed head on, confirm it spins true, it also shoots true out to 80 or 90 yards. I shoot every broadhead arrow before I hunt with it and do not remove the head after confirming.

OP you are either a great shooter or expectations match arrow performance. I expect to hit the spot I aim for. I have increased arrow tolerance quality over the years and each time has resulted in a correlating accuracy gain.

Nothing wrong with less expensive arrows though.

Thanks for the informative response. Since I starting bow tuning the last 2 years, I’ve found my arrows to keep up with my abilities to 50 yds, with bh’s matching field points.

What kind of accuracy gains were you seeing at your max hunting distance? Enough to extend your range a bit?

 

[Button]

I can’t say .001 vs .003 vs .006 has had a huge effect on my shooting because I’m not a great archer. I started out shooting factory fletched 001, then bought .003 shafts, and finally .006 shafts. My groups and distance have improved a lot from practicing almost every day. However I can see the difference when I’m spinning .003 and .006 shafts before and after cutting. Since I can’t cut much off a 32” shaft I’ll probably be sticking with .003 and .001.

 

[Mikido]

I can’t say .001 vs .003 vs .006 has had a huge effect on my shooting because I’m not a great archer. I started out shooting factory fletched 001, then bought .003 shafts, and finally .006 shafts. My groups and distance have improved a lot from practicing almost every day. However I can see the difference when I’m spinning .003 and .006 shafts before and after cutting. Since I can’t cut much off a 32” shaft I’ll probably be sticking with .003 and .001.

Great info thank you

 

[nettereo16]

I've bought dozens and dozens of used Axis arrows on ArcheryTalk over the years. Cut them down to my length and have at it. They shoot well for me and it's not as painful when they get lost.

 

[bigW]

For me arrows with wider tolerances “cheap” generally shoot fine maybe not great with field points. I build my own from shafts.
Biggest difference is when you start shooting fixed blades, they can and will shoot well just might take some mixing and matching arrows to heads and even then an arrow that spins might be off on spine and still not fly.
I tend to buy used arrows in a big batch of 18 plus and pay $5-6 per arrow including shipping and transaction fees. I just look in advance of needing arrows and am patient. With tighter tolerance arrows I avoid the messing around shooting fixed heads and generally when I screw a fixed head on, confirm it spins true, it also shoots true out to 80 or 90 yards. I shoot every broadhead arrow before I hunt with it and do not remove the head after confirming.

OP you are either a great shooter or expectations match arrow performance. I expect to hit the spot I aim for. I have increased arrow tolerance quality over the years and each time has resulted in a correlating accuracy gain.

Nothing wrong with less expensive arrows though.

if you have an arrow that is "not so straight" and a fletching with no offset / no helical (and the cheaper ones often come with such a simple fletch) you don't need a BH to let them fly like a boomerang, especially when you shoot out further ...
might be still good to hit the vitals with a BH in 20 meters, but for 3D and with a FP you won't be able to reach a high score.

 

[Hall17]

I am not a tinkering kind of person. Been shooting the GT Hunter XT for a long time. Tuned nicely out of both PSE bows I've owned using them so no reason to change. They are not expensive arrows but have always performed well for me and how I hunt. You can kill an animal with a $5 arrow as well as a more expensive arrow. I personally don't care how what the arrow costs as long as it tunes well out of the bow I am shooting at that time

 

[doverpack12]

Thanks for the informative response. Since I starting bow tuning the last 2 years, I’ve found my arrows to keep up with my abilities to 50 yds, with bh’s matching field points.

What kind of accuracy gains were you seeing at your max hunting distance? Enough to extend your range a bit?

I consider the middle hex on a full size matrix acceptable accuracy with a fixed blade on my first shot that day. I expect to hit the center white dot unless I know I didn’t make the best shot and then I still expect to be in the center hex.
With better arrows that just becomes easier and more of the arrows are capable of that accuracy.
Cheaper/wider tolerance arrows you can still achieve the same accuracy but it will take more messing around switching heads to find a quiver full that fly like I expect at max range.
I am more comfortable at longer distances and have gained confidence to take a shot at my max range if necessary with better arrows.

 

[doverpack12]

if you have an arrow that is "not so straight" and a fletching with no offset / no helical (and the cheaper ones often come with such a simple fletch) you don't need a BH to let them fly like a boomerang, especially when you shoot out further ...
might be still good to hit the vitals with a BH in 20 meters, but for 3D and with a FP you won't be able to reach a high score.

Well if the arrow doesn’t spin with a broadhead I don’t try shooting it with one. I also fletch all my arrows but not everyone does.

That brings up another good point about ANY factory fletched arrow. You do need to make sure the fletching on the arrow has 1 degree offset minimum and I prefer more offset with helical. Broadheads and straight fletched arrows don’t get along the best.

 

[Zac]

Well if the arrow doesn’t spin with a broadhead I don’t try shooting it with one. I also fletch all my arrows but not everyone does.

That brings up another good point about ANY factory fletched arrow. You do need to make sure the fletching on the arrow has 1 degree offset minimum and I prefer more offset with helical. Broadheads and straight fletched arrows don’t get along the best.

Literally every factory fletched shaft has at least 1 degree of offset. The primary purpose of a vane is to create lift. Any configuration will accomplish this. Stability has more to do with vane height than offset or helical. Any 0.5 inch high vane like the Blazer is going to provide plenty of leverage to stabilize almost any broadhead profile. Refletcting factory shafts is a ridiculous practice, unless it has to do with spine alignment.