I have an urgent plumbing question

[HighUintas]

I'm installing a new shower and put in a Pfister single handle rotating tub/shower kit. The diverter valve has a slow leak after turning the water on for a pressure test. It's coming out of the brass valve body where the valve cartridge meets it.

I have not yet flushed water through. I didn't try greasing the oring on the valve cartridge yet. The valve cartridge mounting screws are tight.

Thoughts?

 

[Jauwater]

I'd have to assume one of the o-rings on the cartridge itself is either damaged or pinched. I'd cut the water back off, drain the system to take the pressure off, remove the cartridge, check for damage seal. If everything looks good, reseat the cartridge, and see if that works. That's where I'd start. If you've already done that, and no success, I'd probably look into getting a whole new cartridge. I've been plumbing for the last 19 years, and I'd have to say its uncommon for a new cartridge to leak straight out from a new valve body. As far as I can see, it doesnt look like you did, but did you put heat to that valve at any time with the cartridge installed? I see the threaded female adaptors which would indicate to me you just used a sealant there, but figured I'd ask. Heat can melt the seals in the cartridge. Anyway, feel free to reach out if that doesnt help.

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[Brianmp01]

I would pull it out and replace it, your wall is already opened up and its an easy job. If its brand new and leaking it's most likely going to give you more issues in the future.

 

[rodney482]

Damaged o ring

 

[HighUintas]

I'd have to assume one of the o-rings on the cartridge itself is either damaged or pinched. I'd cut the water back off, drain the system to take the pressure off, remove the cartridge, check for damage seal. If everything looks good, reseat the cartridge, and see if that works. That's where I'd start. If you've already done that, and no success, I'd probably look into getting a whole new cartridge. I've been plumbing for the last 19 years, and I'd have to say its uncommon for a new cartridge to leak straight out from a new valve body. As far as I can see, it doesnt look like you did, but did you put heat to that valve at any time with the cartridge installed? I see the threaded female adaptors which would indicate to me you just used a sealant there, but figured I'd ask. Heat can melt the seals in the cartridge. Anyway, feel free to reach out if that doesnt help.

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I would pull it out and replace it, your wall is already opened up and its an easy job. If its brand new and leaking it's most likely going to give you more issues in the future.

Damaged o ring

Thanks fo r the replies!

Here's something I forgot to mention. This is the second time it's happened. I had the same valve put in yesterday (new) and it leaked. Luckily I caught it before screwing the backer board up because it was slower than this was. I pulled that cartridge out, inspected and didn't find any damage, reseated it, and it still leaked.

So I took that one back and got the same one. This one looks slightly updated because the valve stem is brass instead of plastic. This one leaks too but worse!!

I didn't use any heat on the body. The connections are threaded with Teflon tape.

I was thinking it's got to be something I did or didn't do, because what's the chances of it happening with two it in the same day that are obviously manufactured at quite different times?

I didn't think Pfister was the vortex of bathroom fixtures ....haha.. seriously though, I opened a few kits before bringing home a second one and the Moen and Delta kits fit and finish seemed sub par.

 

[Brianmp01]

If your already on your second one I would definitely take it out and go with a different brand.

 

[Deadfall]

Did you snug all the screws before tightening them? If you tightened one screw then the rest, something could be twisted.

 

[HighUintas]

Did you snug all the screws before tightening them? If you tightened one screw then the rest, something could be twisted.

Yes I tightened hem like a vehicle wheel in a cross cross pattern.

Thinking I may have to just go get a different brand!

 

[Razz]

Is it leaking at the mating surface, or internally? If at the mating surface, is there an irregularity on the “face” of the valve body or is that gasket damaged?

 

[Jauwater]

Yea, hard to tell really. Everything in the pic looks decent, cartridge looks all the way seated. If this is the cartridge that has only the one large o-ring just behind the flange, and you can tell its abousletly seating before you start tightening the screws, and it continues to leak with no sign of damage being done to the o-rings then we would have to assume it's the valve body. Would be extremely rare for it to be the valve body, but its happen to me before with a delta. Water is getting past that o-ring one way or another, though. Hmm, wish I was there to get my hands on it. If your not greasing your o-ring it could be pinching. Forgive me if you've tried these things prior, just throwing ideas out there. When I put in a cartridge I'll get it seated and keep pressure on it the entire time till I have it fastened in, and I'd tighten that type of cartridge like deadfall mentioned. Go around just snugging them before fully tightening. Some cartridges are notorious for wanting to push out after you seat them, which can cause an o-ring to pinch when tightening it, which again, would be super rare. Best of luck. Reach back out to us if ya got any ideas.

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[HighUintas]

Yea, hard to tell really. Everything in the pic looks decent, cartridge looks all the way seated. If this is the cartridge that has only the one large o-ring just behind the flange, and you can tell its abousletly seating before you start tightening the screws, and it continues to leak with no sign of damage being done to the o-rings then we would have to assume it's the valve body. Would be extremely rare for it to be the valve body, but its happen to me before with a delta. Water is getting past that o-ring one way or another, though. Hmm, wish I was there to get my hands on it. If your not greasing your o-ring it could be pinching. Forgive me if you've tried these things prior, just throwing ideas out there. When I put in a cartridge I'll get it seated and keep pressure on it the entire time till I have it fastened in, and I'd tighten that type of cartridge like deadfall mentioned. Go around just snugging them before fully tightening. Some cartridges are notorious for wanting to push out after you seat them, which can cause an o-ring to pinch when tightening it, which again, would be super rare. Best of luck. Reach back out to us if ya got any ideas.

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Thanks. I just pulled it out to inspect and grease it. Should have taken a picture. Yes, it's just one large oring that seals the body near the front. No damage, oring looked good, no debris or anything.

Still leaking with the grease!

Is it possible I torqued too hard when tightening the in/out lines and somehow bent the body? I wouldn't think so. This one is leaking from all four sides!

I'm thinking I'm going to pull it out and go get a Moen or Kohler

 

[ElkNut1]

Go to youtube & put in brand & model # -- It will share great info on issues & application, it has been a lifesaver for me on many products! Good luck!

ElkNut

 

[Jauwater]

Thanks. I just pulled it out to inspect and grease it. Should have taken a picture. Yes, it's just one large oring that seals the body near the front. No damage, oring looked good, no debris or anything.

Still leaking with the grease!

Is it possible I torqued too hard when tightening the in/out lines and somehow bent the body? I wouldn't think so. This one is leaking from all four sides!

I'm thinking I'm going to pull it out and go get a Moen or Kohler

Yea I hear ya. Like that gentleman Brian was getting at, sometimes it ain't worth messing with it. Alot of times replacing it is the easier route. Even when its brand new.

If you had channel locks directly around the valve body you could have very well damaged the valve housing. I've seen guys do that before with Deltas. I'll tend to have guys solder the valves these days rather then using the threaded adaptors just to keep those types of things from happening. Nothing wrong with those adaptors, but some guys are stronger then the realize, I came to find out. Anyway, Kohler makes nice stuff, some of the trim can be tricky. They seem to have their own way designing things. Moen is a pretty simple install usually with a lifetime warranty, and repairs are easy. The standard rough valve for Moen probably has 10+ trim styles you can choose from. Not sure you'll get that look that Kohler has though.

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[HighUintas]

Yea I hear ya. Like that gentleman Brian was getting at, sometimes it ain't worth messing with it. Alot of times replacing it is the easier route. Even when its brand new.

If you had channel locks directly around the valve body you could have very well damaged the valve housing. I've seen guys do that before with Deltas. I'll tend to have guys solder the valves these days rather then using the threaded adaptors just to keep those types of things from happening. Nothing wrong with those adaptors, but some guys are stronger then the realize, I came to find out. Anyway, Kohler makes nice stuff, some of the trim can be tricky. They seem to have their own way designing things. Moen is a pretty simple install usually with a lifetime warranty, and repairs are easy. The standard rough valve for Moen probably has 10+ trim styles you can choose from. Not sure you'll get that look that Kohler has though.

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I was cognisant of the possibility while tightening them and just had my channel locks on the mounting bracket and to the side of the main body, so I don't think the body would be bent out of shape. Unfortunately I big-box shopped and the threads were the only option.

 

[elkguide]

I was cognizant of the possibility while tightening them and just had my channel locks on the mounting bracket and to the side of the main body, so I don't think the body would be bent out of shape. Unfortunately I big-box shopped and the threads were the only option.

I think that you may have solved your problem. Often times that I have been in a pinch and went to the Big Boxes, I have only regretted it when I had to re-do whatever I was doing.

 

[HighUintas]

Heck yea I think I'm good now!! I got a Moen because the quality seemed a bit higher than the Kohler they had. I'm not seeing any leaks. I need to make one of those classic forum posts ... "Beware Pfister valves!!!"

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I sincerely appreciate it. My wife asked me late last night why I was asking a hunting forum about it and I told her I know there's some people who would know more than I and they're always willing to help out! And I don't need to join a plumbing diy forum as well thanks!

 

[HighUintas]

You better ask for help from a professional...

This is old and done. I can't afford a professional being a Rokslide member haha

 

[Broadjumper]

Very unusual the piping is connected to the mixer tap . In Oz all our mixer taps inlets/ outlets are FIs and we screw a male thread into the mixer body itself which comes as 3 female threads. Interesting.

 

[Elmer J. Fudd]

What kind of plumbing do you have in your house? Is it galvanized or copper? If its copper I would get some sharkbite style fittings and a length of pex. I think that would be the easiest fix. If it is galvanized it would be a little trickier but I don't know if they ever made a saddle for galvanized pipe. I am not a plumber but I have a PHD in redneck diy fixes.

 

[Deadfall]

Plumbers, I need to replace a saddle valve, which is located on my main waterline in the house. Can I replace the valve with a new one in the same location? This tap supplies water to my swamp cooler 1/4 inch line. Not excited about having to replace the length of 3/4" pipe it is on, unless absolutely necessary.

I'm not a plumber, however as a professional remodeled I have dealt with lots of saddle valves. My experience, I prefer to use a reducing fitting and add valve to that. Saddle valves seem to always need replaced.