I Guess This Is Why We Buy SWFAs

[Lonewolf72]

I was hoofing it hard across an ankle-swallowing sage flat before first light when I took a header and landed face-first in the sleet. Swallowed my pride, brushed myself off and continued to my elk hide. A couple hours later my brother asked me what I did to my scope. Now I noticed the big "ding" in the objective bell of my SWFA SS 3-15x42mm scope. I must've bounced my scope off a rock.

Of course I'm pissed to damage my scope, and likely never be able to screw in the sunshade again, due to the fresh "contouring" I applied to the objective bell. I finished the day's hunt and hunted again the next day without being able to check my zero, trusting in my system (SWFA, Tikka, UM rings, RokStok). My brother and I doubled-up and turfed a spike!

Got home and headed to the range to check my zero. My windage was only off 0.1 MILS! I'd say that's pretty good. If anything, the discrepancy may be due to my inconsistent shooting lately.

Moral of the story: SWFAs are tough, reliable scopes. Some people have to learn the hard way to use a protective scope cover or proper set of scope caps in order to protect their equipment. I guess I'll be taping on a protective scope cap so I'm not constantly reminded of my blunder.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

That is nice validation.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

Meh, no biggie. Keep on shoot’n.

 

[atmat]

 

[DangerRanger]

My buddy dropped his rifle off the bleachers at mammoth directly onto the 3-15 and it didn’t move

 

[vermeire]

I'd take a round file to that. You may lose a few threads but you'll get your shade back on.

 

[eddielasvegas]

With all due respect to @vermeire , you may not need something as course as a file.

I'd start with 1000 or 1500 grit sponge sandpaper and work on it a little at a time. Move up to 800 or 600 grit if it's too slow going. It really does not look like you need to take too much off to get to the threads and smooth out the edge.

Good luck,

Eddie

 

[vermeire]

I'd take a round file to that. You may lose a few threads but you'll get your shade back on.

No disrespect received. I was just pointing out that with a little clean up it should be as functional as ever. Your sandpaper idea is probably a better approach.

For colorbafter cleaning it up there are products that make aluminum dark. I've used them on an AR receiver that had some dings in the anodizing.