Hunting trailer conversion

Xxtavixx

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
196
Location
Jacksonville fl
Hello all,

I'm sure some people have done this - but I have not quite found anything. A few threads on the expedition forum, but they tend to be less hunting oriented.

I've got a 4x6 steel utility trailer that I cut the gate off of so I could haul kayaks. I put a much longer tongue on it, but plan to swap to the short tongue again. It's got probably 16" sides on it, and a wire mesh bottom that is sagging badly. The rims are small, maybe 14" and the tires are pretty close to the fender (axle is currently over lead springs).

My thoughts: Rip out the wire mesh, grind/sand any rust. Flip the axle to be under the leaf spring and throw on take off Jeep rims/tires. This should get me some descent ground clearance without going to a torsion axle. Drill holes to accept a 3/4" plywood sheet and build a "tub" on top that is approx 24" deep, and close it with a lid. I'd be building the tub strong enough to stack items on top of it (like drywall for the times I need it).

Questions:
-Waterproofing. I was debating spray on bid liner on the bottom of the plywood bottom and sides. I've heard not to use PT treated, because of the corrosion issues. Should I just use Thompsons sealer and paint?

-The lid on the tub, I haven't decided yet but I am thinking gull-wing style. I was planning to have 4 doors - two one each side. If I do this, I have not figured out how to water proof the middle channel. The best idea I have so far is to route a one inch wide drain in a 2x4 that would catch all water. Any better ideas here? Water proof the outside edge is easy enough, but the middle is tricky.

-I'm not going to be doing anything super hardcore, is it still worth upgrading to torsion axles? Ideally, I'm trying to keep the cost low.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2014
Messages
1,442
Location
Tulsa Ok
I wouldn't do torsion if you want to keep the cost low. I have an old M101 military surplus trailer that I am making into a camping setup. I am ditching the 6000 lb axle underneath and going with a 3500 so I can put spindles on it that match the Jeep.

I dumped the surge brakes and fabbed up my own tongue as well.

My bed is full of holes (drilled, not rusted) that I will need to seal up eventually. Good thing about mine is that standard tonneau covers will fit it.

Good luck on yours. We enjoy having ours available. Since I don't have a truck any more I use it as a utility trailer more than a camping trailer.
 

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cnelk

WKR
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
7,616
Location
Colorado
You may want to consider using marine grade plywood.
Its not waterproof, but the glue is
 

n816kc

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
168
Location
Winter Haven, FL
I've got a similar set up for hauling kayaks, 4x7 trailer with extended tongue, the ramp laid down and a couple of old Thule racks mounted on the rails. Considering a similar conversion plus adding a truck ladder rack and maybe a roof top tent on that. Swapping the racks would only take 20-30 minutes. I'm thinking I'll just shorten my extended tongue 18" to avoid the need to swap out every time I reconfigure. I've got a stall mat in the floor of the trailer, marine plywood would be a nice upgrade.
 

GotDraw?

WKR
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
1,320
Location
Maryland
If you varnish both sides of the marine grade plywood with a couple coats of real varnish it will be waterproof, like a boat. Need to seal drilled holes, too.

Marine grade is simply better plywood, with waterproof glue and no voids. It will rot over time unless protected from water.

JL
 

137buck

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Messages
120
Location
Western Montana
I have a 5'x10' trailer that I'm redoing now. As soon as I get it wired wheeled and sanded and repainted, I'm flipping the axle for more clearance and then I'm building an enclosed box that I can slide on and off as needed. I can use the box to haul my camping and coolers or the mountain bikes, then if I need the trailer to haul firewood or whatever, I can slide the box off.
 
OP
X

Xxtavixx

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
196
Location
Jacksonville fl
I have a 5'x10' trailer that I'm redoing now. As soon as I get it wired wheeled and sanded and repainted, I'm flipping the axle for more clearance and then I'm building an enclosed box that I can slide on and off as needed. I can use the box to haul my camping and coolers or the mountain bikes, then if I need the trailer to haul firewood or whatever, I can slide the box off.


How do you intend to make the box in ceiling? So far I'm going to build a fiberglass enclosure
 
OP
X

Xxtavixx

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
196
Location
Jacksonville fl
Thought I would post some updates. I ended up going a bit more simple. Started off with the frame being VERY rust. I ground out the expanded metal floor that was sagging, I ground off the most overly welded on fenders ever to exist, re-cut the gate, swapped to a 3500lb axle and picked up some 6 on 5.5 hubs. I then added some ammo cans for dry storage and a tongue stand. The wood is untreated yellow pine, I wanted to avoid pressure treated wood due to the galvanic rust it creates when in contact with metal. I'll have to replace the floor every 5 years or so.

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I have not mounted the spare yet, but I really like that I am now running the same bolt pattern as my Tacoma - I will have a second spare with me when I am travelling. The pictures do not really show the ground clearance very well, I think the truck would get stuck before the trailer...
 
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