Hunting Stabilizer Setup: The Necessity of a Rear Stabilizer?

[Oseary]

Hi,


My questions surround whether a rear stabilizer is recommended (or as beneficial as the front) on a hunting setup, and which length/model is best to accompany my front stabilizer.

I get it that stabs are fundamentally just a lever arm weight on a stick, but part of archery is tinkering (even when it’s not always broken) and having fun figuring out what works the best. I’m approaching this as a chance to to learn as much as possible and try to get more dialed in. I’m going to try to spend some time trying out a rear stabilizer, but I have limited opportunity to do that without buying one. Would be grateful to hear your thoughts. I’ve also been looking over past posts about this stuff and sounds like there are a lot of approaches. Let me know how I can ask better questions about this. Thanks in advance.

———

1. Do I need a rear stab to accompany the front? I haven’t shot with a rear stab before and I’m wondering if it would be a dramatic improvement over just a front stabilizer. I have felt a significant improvement with the front stab, but perhaps the front stab makes more of a difference than the rear.

2. What length rear should I get if I’m using a 10” on the front?

3. Should I go longer than 10” on the front, or is 10 a good balance? It’s a hunting bow and I’m mainly hunting spot & stalk.

4. Is there any strategy to choosing models for front vs rear stabs, aside from having the rear a bit shorter? (Are some models designed only as rear or front stabs? Will it be the best to get to two of the same stab models just with different lengths if I’m running two stabs on a bow?)

I ordered a Shrewd Revx 10” for the front, and I was thinking about an 8” rear. Having talked with a handful of folks, it sounds like 10” is a good way to go for the front stab on a hunting rig but I would be psyched for feedback on alternatives, and can always return/move things around.

Thanks for any advice. Hope you guys are having a great Friday.

 

[Wheels]

I never used a side bar prior to the Mathews V3 that I am shooting now. Just couldn’t get it to hold level without torquing my hand, so put an 8” side/rear bar on with 4 oz and it holds nice for me now.

 

[Beendare]

The top target guys prove there is an advantage to counterbalancing your bow- otherwise they wouldnt be using it.

The question is; Does any of that extra balancing make that much difference in the woods and is it worth hauling it around?

The other question you might ask yourself is; Will any of that add on stuff hinder my chances at the moment of truth?

Hunting is not target shooting. Many times you aren’t standing on wide open flat ground like the target range but in thicker cover, a treestand, GB, etc. Movement matters as it can get you busted. I can only think of one case where a 10” stabilizer cost a buddy an animal. He was tracking a hog from L to R at FD and bumped a small sapling….causing him to readjust his feet in noisy leaves- busted, hog took off.

I have never hunted with a stabilizer and I know many highly successful guys that either use a short stabilizer or nothing.

The guys I do know shooting these offset and/or back bars spend a lot of trial and error to find the right balance for them.

 

[Billy Goat]

It really depends on the bow. Different bows will balance better with weight in different spots.

I'm also mainly of the opinion that without a lot of weight, short bars don't do much at all. I don't care to stack a bunch of weight onto a hunting bow, and I don't want 20" sticking out the front of my bow while carrying it either.


There's a formula for calculating a starting point of weights for the front and back. Multiply your front bar length by the ounces on the front. Then divide that by the length of your back bar. That gives you the ounces for the rear.
I don't know anyone who shoots a setup that perfectly works out to that, but it is a starting point.

The 10/8 is kinda a standard hunting bow configuration, but don't be afraid to put the 10 on the back and the 8 on the front. Some short ata bows seem to prefer that for some reason, or short ata shooters I should say.

 

[Zac]

Another option is the Bee Stinger Counter Slide. Kind of an offset and front bar in a nice convenient package. Gillingham has got along nicely with one of those.

 

[Billy Goat]

Another option is the Bee Stinger Counter Slide. Kind of an offset and front bar in a nice convenient package. Gillingham has got along nicely with one of those.

I have one, can't say I'm much of a fan. To me it's something that is trying to do something it can't. I like being able to play with the angle of a backbar. You don't get that chance with the slides.

 

[Oseary]

The top target guys prove there is an advantage to counterbalancing your bow- otherwise they wouldnt be using it.

The question is; Does any of that extra balancing make that much difference in the woods and is it worth hauling it around?

The other question you might ask yourself is; Will any of that add on stuff hinder my chances at the moment of truth?

Hunting is not target shooting. Many times you aren’t standing on wide open flat ground like the target range but in thicker cover, a treestand, GB, etc. Movement matters as it can get you busted. I can only think of one case where a 10” stabilizer cost a buddy an animal. He was tracking a hog from L to R at FD and bumped a small sapling….causing him to readjust his feet in noisy leaves- busted, hog took off.

I have never hunted with a stabilizer and I know many highly successful guys that either use a short stabilizer or nothing.

The guys I do know shooting these offset and/or back bars spend a lot of trial and error to find the right balance for them.

That's helpful to hear about that type of situation, and I appreciate the way youre thinking about it. I have not been shooting with a stabilizer all year, (and I of course would be psyched to hunt without the weight/additional length of it) but I'm working on stretching the ranges I'm shooting at, and I'm finding that holding steady is a limiting factor for me right now. Trying out the front stabilizer on this rig has been helpful so far, and I'm just debating the sweet spot for length (in the 8-12" range) in terms of efficacy vs practicality in the woods. There's no right answer, but hearing as many voices as possible on it is helpful.

 

[Oseary]

I have one, can't say I'm much of a fan. To me it's something that is trying to do something it can't. I like being able to play with the angle of a backbar. You don't get that chance with the slides.

I'll have to take a look at the bee stinger setup. If I went with a rear stab, being able to adjust it might not be the worst thing in the world. (I'm running a Tightspot 5 on the bow, and still trying out some angles with how it's mounted. That has a greater effect on pitch than roll, but it might be another reason to look for adjustability in the rear angle.)

 

[sndmn11]

I have one, can't say I'm much of a fan. To me it's something that is trying to do something it can't. I like being able to play with the angle of a backbar. You don't get that chance with the slides.

I didn't like my counter slide either. I ended up selling the bracket and just screwing the 12" to the front.

 

[Billy Goat]

I didn't like my counter slide either. I ended up selling the bracket and just screwing the 12" to the front.

My 18" bar is on my better halves bow. She is compact enough that it's comparable to a 24-26" for me.

 

[4rcgoat]

Hi,


My questions surround whether a rear stabilizer is recommended (or as beneficial as the front) on a hunting setup, and which length/model is best to accompany my front stabilizer.

I get it that stabs are fundamentally just a lever arm weight on a stick, but part of archery is tinkering (even when it’s not always broken) and having fun figuring out what works the best. I’m approaching this as a chance to to learn as much as possible and try to get more dialed in. I’m going to try to spend some time trying out a rear stabilizer, but I have limited opportunity to do that without buying one. Would be grateful to hear your thoughts. I’ve also been looking over past posts about this stuff and sounds like there are a lot of approaches. Let me know how I can ask better questions about this. Thanks in advance.

———

1. Do I need a rear stab to accompany the front? I haven’t shot with a rear stab before and I’m wondering if it would be a dramatic improvement over just a front stabilizer. I have felt a significant improvement with the front stab, but perhaps the front stab makes more of a difference than the rear.

2. What length rear should I get if I’m using a 10” on the front?

3. Should I go longer than 10” on the front, or is 10 a good balance? It’s a hunting bow and I’m mainly hunting spot & stalk.

4. Is there any strategy to choosing models for front vs rear stabs, aside from having the rear a bit shorter? (Are some models designed only as rear or front stabs? Will it be the best to get to two of the same stab models just with different lengths if I’m running two stabs on a bow?)

I ordered a Shrewd Revx 10” for the front, and I was thinking about an 8” rear. Having talked with a handful of folks, it sounds like 10” is a good way to go for the front stab on a hunting rig but I would be psyched for feedback on alternatives, and can always return/move things around.

Thanks for any advice. Hope you guys are having a great Friday.

I believe you need to get out to 12 inches and beyond for any stabilizing affect, weight will vary
I run a 15 inch stab out front with 6 ounces on my hunting bow and never really notice its there.........except when the wind blows.

 

[Norm555]

I don't think you need a side bar but I love mine. I run a 12" front and 10" rear.

 

[5MilesBack]

I've never used a back bar.......for hunting or target. Would it help.......possibly, but we're talking about splitting hairs at that point.

 

[N2TRKYS]

You don’t have to have a front bar, much less a rear one. Only you can decide if you need one. Personally, I only use a stabilizer for the added vibration reduction.

 

[Billy Goat]

You don’t have to have a front bar, much less a rear one. Only you can decide if you need one. Personally, I only use a stabilizer for the added vibration reduction.

If you are using a stabilizer for vibration reduction it's not a stabilizer, tho many are marketed that way. That's just a dampener. They definitely work, just not the same thing. One is a really ridgid rod with weight on the end, and any flex is a detriment. The other is a floppy thing meant to do just that, flop around and absorb vibration.

If a stabilizer has a rubber section between the rod and the weight it's not going to work properly, the whole idea is to have something extremely ridgid between you and the weights so it can help stability. If there is something flexing in there it reduces the effect of the weight, because it allows it to float more.

Years ago bows were pretty violent on the shot, hydraulic buffers were all the rage. Took noise out and made them feel alot better at the shot. Didn't really do any stabilizing, it has continued. To some extent you can have a dual purpose system, but they do counter each other in the true form.

 

[N2TRKYS]

If you are using a stabilizer for vibration reduction it's not a stabilizer, tho many are marketed that way. That's just a dampener. They definitely work, just not the same thing. One is a really ridgid rod with weight on the end, and any flex is a detriment. The other is a floppy thing meant to do just that, flop around and absorb vibration.

If a stabilizer has a rubber section between the rod and the weight it's not going to work properly, the whole idea is to have something extremely ridgid between you and the weights so it can help stability. If there is something flexing in there it reduces the effect of the weight, because it allows it to float more.

Years ago bows were pretty violent on the shot, hydraulic buffers were all the rage. Took noise out and made them feel alot better at the shot. Didn't really do any stabilizing, it has continued. To some extent you can have a dual purpose system, but they do counter each other in the true form.

Like I said, I only use one for the vibration reduction. I don’t need it for balancing.

 

[Samdemarais]

Hi,


My questions surround whether a rear stabilizer is recommended (or as beneficial as the front) on a hunting setup, and which length/model is best to accompany my front stabilizer.

I get it that stabs are fundamentally just a lever arm weight on a stick, but part of archery is tinkering (even when it’s not always broken) and having fun figuring out what works the best. I’m approaching this as a chance to to learn as much as possible and try to get more dialed in. I’m going to try to spend some time trying out a rear stabilizer, but I have limited opportunity to do that without buying one. Would be grateful to hear your thoughts. I’ve also been looking over past posts about this stuff and sounds like there are a lot of approaches. Let me know how I can ask better questions about this. Thanks in advance.

———

1. Do I need a rear stab to accompany the front? I haven’t shot with a rear stab before and I’m wondering if it would be a dramatic improvement over just a front stabilizer. I have felt a significant improvement with the front stab, but perhaps the front stab makes more of a difference than the rear.

2. What length rear should I get if I’m using a 10” on the front?

3. Should I go longer than 10” on the front, or is 10 a good balance? It’s a hunting bow and I’m mainly hunting spot & stalk.

4. Is there any strategy to choosing models for front vs rear stabs, aside from having the rear a bit shorter? (Are some models designed only as rear or front stabs? Will it be the best to get to two of the same stab models just with different lengths if I’m running two stabs on a bow?)

I ordered a Shrewd Revx 10” for the front, and I was thinking about an 8” rear. Having talked with a handful of folks, it sounds like 10” is a good way to go for the front stab on a hunting rig but I would be psyched for feedback on alternatives, and can always return/move things around.

Thanks for any advice. Hope you guys are having a great Friday.

12-15” front bar and 8-10” back bar with angled mounting bracket. The longer the bar the less weight you need on the end for the same effect so a slightly longer bar could end up being lighter. I think the back bar is crucial for my set up, my sight, rest and full quiver make the bow very lopsided without a back bar. I actually am shooting only the back bar and have had success. I would check our conquest smac bars, cutter, bee stinger.

 

[roosiebull]

You don’t have to have a front bar, much less a rear one. Only you can decide if you need one. Personally, I only use a stabilizer for the added vibration reduction.

Same here. I don’t like or need a stabilizer on my hunting bow, and if it needs a back bar on a hunting bow, I won’t own that bow... been there once when I had a triax... never again.

every bow is different, every person is different. For what I do, 40yds is a long shot in the woods in my world, I generally don’t start thinking about shooting until I’m inside 30yds... I’m not opposed to shooting farther, but I usually don’t need to.

i shoot the vast majority of critters with the top pin, so a back bar for me is just added stuff bolted onto my bow, and I’m not doing it.

my Mach 1 holds better for me with no front weight... could I make it hold better with a big front bar and back bar? Of course, but it defeats the purpose.

it’s kinda the same reason I wouldn’t take a 15lb bench rest rifle into the back country (or any sane person) unless you were planning on shooting a long way, there is no point... you have to pick the right tool for the job, whatever that means to you.

for me, it’s light weapons because I don’t plan on shooting a long ways at animals... if I thought my shots would be outside 40yds most of the time, I would probably set my bow up different.
I’m not trying to shoot an elk in the eye at 50yds, I’m shooting them in the lungs at mostly sub 20... don’t need a target bow for that.

to me, a tricky shot is a frontal or quartering to inside 20yds... that’s still a big target when considering the level of precision needed... hitting a 6” circle at 20yds isn’t very technical.

I use a wrist strap release too, it’s not the most accurate release for me, but if a bull is charging in offering you the first opportunity at 15yds, I’m probably unapologetically ripping the trigger off the release

 

[Oseary]

Same here. I don’t like or need a stabilizer on my hunting bow, and if it needs a back bar on a hunting bow, I won’t own that bow... been there once when I had a triax... never again.

every bow is different, every person is different. For what I do, 40yds is a long shot in the woods in my world, I generally don’t start thinking about shooting until I’m inside 30yds... I’m not opposed to shooting farther, but I usually don’t need to.

i shoot the vast majority of critters with the top pin, so a back bar for me is just added stuff bolted onto my bow, and I’m not doing it.

my Mach 1 holds better for me with no front weight... could I make it hold better with a big front bar and back bar? Of course, but it defeats the purpose.

it’s kinda the same reason I wouldn’t take a 15lb bench rest rifle into the back country (or any sane person) unless you were planning on shooting a long way, there is no point... you have to pick the right tool for the job, whatever that means to you.

for me, it’s light weapons because I don’t plan on shooting a long ways at animals... if I thought my shots would be outside 40yds most of the time, I would probably set my bow up different.
I’m not trying to shoot an elk in the eye at 50yds, I’m shooting them in the lungs at mostly sub 20... don’t need a target bow for that.

to me, a tricky shot is a frontal or quartering to inside 20yds... that’s still a big target when considering the level of precision needed... hitting a 6” circle at 20yds isn’t very technical.

I use a wrist strap release too, it’s not the most accurate release for me, but if a bull is charging in offering you the first opportunity at 15yds, I’m probably unapologetically ripping the trigger off the release

This is a healthy framework to keep in mind. I appreciate hearing the way you’re thinking about it.

 

[Beendare]

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