HUNTING RELEASE

[BowhuntingBrune3]

Just wanted to get everyone's opinion on what hunting release I should go with. First off it WILL NOT be a wrist rocket, I go full kamikaze on one and punch the snot out of it when it least expects it. I have the tendency to do that with a thumb button as well but have found it hard as hell to hunt with a hinge cause I get all amped when something comes in and struggle with even getting the stupid thing ready to shoot. But for 3D and general practice I love my hinge. I was thinking of getting a nock 2 it but would like to get the silver back to train with but don't really have the funds for it. Sorry this is long winded but I absolutely love to shoot my bow with my hinge but hunting is a different story.

 

[Wapiti1]

I think you will benefit more from fixing your target panic issue. Then you can use any release.

You're

 

[5MilesBack]

Is "wrist rocket" a certain brand........or are you talking about any wrist strap caliper release? I've been using a Tru-Ball Cyclone caliper release for the last 13 years for everything.....hunting, 3D, target. Keeps everything consistent no matter what I'm shooting at.

 

[Jskaanland]

I hunted with the nock 2 it this year and really liked the transition from the silverback to it. I bought the silverback a then bought the nock 2 it a but later. Forcing me to just work with the silverback(and spreading the cost out)

 

[doncarpenter]

It sounds like you would like any resistance type release, silverback or otherwise. I have a silverback and Nock2it combo. I use both for hunting and practice.

I also have a Stan Perfex thumb and resistance combo that I really like. I like the Stan because you don't have to change springs to change the tension, just turn the adjustment screw.

I would recommend staying away from a thumb activated release for the time being since you are prone to punching the trigger because you can just as easily punch the trigger with your thumb.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

[BowhuntingBrune3]

For those of you with the silverback or other tension activated releases. Have you all hunted with them? If so what did you think?

 

[Brendan]

"Just Fixing Target Panic" is easier said than done.

Check the Scott Longhorn Hex, Longhorn Hunter. Look on ArcheryTalk or FB and see if you can pick one up used.

They are Hinge releases with a wrist strap. If you NEED them to go off, you can slowly and steadily curl all 3-4 fingers until it fires. The one I have is set up with a lot of travel, so it's hard to tell when it's going to go off and isn't as "punchable".

I have a Silverback (Tension) and 2Smooth (Hinge), but haven't hunted with them. I practice with them and still use the Nock2It. If I had to choose one it'd be the 2Smooth because getting the Silverback to fire consistently requires good consistent form, which is tough to replicate from tree stands, saddles, etc.

 

[Wapiti1]

But it can be done, and he'll be a better archer after. Sure he can use other style releases, but, IMO, and that is all it is, learning to really control your shot is the best option. I look at it the same as someone that develops a flinch shooting a rifle. You'll never be as good as you could be if you don't overcome that issue.

For those that shoot a back tension, how well can you hold it if the shot doesn't materialize immediately? I don't shoot one, so I don't know how controllable they are if you have to hold for say 5 minutes.

Jeremy

 

[Brendan]

Yeah, but it's not as easy as "Just fix your target panic..." Could take someone months of dedicated practice.

Regarding the tension release (Back tension is a way of shooting, not a release type), they all have safeties, or you couldn't draw them. So, you can hold them back as long as your muscles let you.

The issue is form. The only way to make a tension release fire is by pulling into the back wall and having the holding weight go over a pre-set amount (unless of course you creep forward out of the valley, then it's going off...). Let's say holding weight in the valley of my bow is 12#, I could set the release to fire at 16#. Press the safety, draw the bow, settle into the valley. When ready to shoot, release safety and start pulling into the wall while continuing to float the pin on the target. When you hit 16#, the release fires. But, if you've been holding for a long time, it gets harder and harder to pull into the wall like that and make one fire consistently for an accurate shot. The "effort" required to hit that 16# can be extremely hard if you have a form breakdown. But, that's also why they're amazing training tools. You can tell when you're not doing it right....

When using a hinge, you have two ways to make one fire. You draw it with much more pressure on thumb and index finger. Very little to no pressure on middle finger and ring finger. If you concentrate on pulling into the wall, pressure starts to equalize between index and middle finger, release rotates as you pull, release fires. But alternately, you can draw to your anchor, and then start relaxing your index finger while beginning to put more pressure on your middle finger. It's a little bit "Faking it" because you're manipulating it with your hand, but easier to do if you have a form breakdown. It's also tough to tell exactly when it's going to go off, so you still have to concentrate on floating the pin at the same time.

 

[BowhuntingBrune3]

I appreciate everyone’s input. I have been working on resolving my target panic for a while now that’s why I have been shooting a hinge release. I think I’m going to get a silver back because like Brendan said you can manipulate a hinge to go off with out using back tension and that is what I do now. My shooting has improved ten fold using a hinge but I want to learn how to shoot properly so I can shoot whatever release I want like wapiti1 said.

 

[dzlfarmboy]

You should check out a Carter Wise Choice, nice 3 finger thumb release.

 

[Elkhntr08]

I have an old Cascade 8 that I keep around to deal with target panic. A month or so with it and I’m good to go for a while.

 

[265fps]

been using scott little bitty goose works for me.

 

[Brendan]

been using scott little bitty goose works for me.

That is exactly the type he is trying to avoid.

 

[Brandon_SPC]

I would get a Carter Wise Choice, Carter Just B Cuz, Carter B Cuz, or Stan SX3. Tighten the poundage down enough to where you can't punch the trigger but have to use back tension and shoot. Cool thing about the stans is you can put a pin in the release to where the "jaws" don't open, draw the bow, and do dry fire practice (still nock an arrow though).

 

[5BtoSB]

When you guys are hunting with any other style release than a wrist rocket, are you putting a string or strap or anything to connect it to your wrist while you're in the field? I'm always paranoid about clipping my thumb button release onto my D-loop and loosing it if I'm on the move

 

[theleo91386]

Yeah, but it's not as easy as "Just fix your target panic..." Could take someone months of dedicated practice.

Regarding the tension release (Back tension is a way of shooting, not a release type), they all have safeties, or you couldn't draw them. So, you can hold them back as long as your muscles let you.

The issue is form. The only way to make a tension release fire is by pulling into the back wall and having the holding weight go over a pre-set amount (unless of course you creep forward out of the valley, then it's going off...). Let's say holding weight in the valley of my bow is 12#, I could set the release to fire at 16#. Press the safety, draw the bow, settle into the valley. When ready to shoot, release safety and start pulling into the wall while continuing to float the pin on the target. When you hit 16#, the release fires. But, if you've been holding for a long time, it gets harder and harder to pull into the wall like that and make one fire consistently for an accurate shot. The "effort" required to hit that 16# can be extremely hard if you have a form breakdown. But, that's also why they're amazing training tools. You can tell when you're not doing it right....

When using a hinge, you have two ways to make one fire. You draw it with much more pressure on thumb and index finger. Very little to no pressure on middle finger and ring finger. If you concentrate on pulling into the wall, pressure starts to equalize between index and middle finger, release rotates as you pull, release fires. But alternately, you can draw to your anchor, and then start relaxing your index finger while beginning to put more pressure on your middle finger. It's a little bit "Faking it" because you're manipulating it with your hand, but easier to do if you have a form breakdown. It's also tough to tell exactly when it's going to go off, so you still have to concentrate on floating the pin at the same time.

There's multiple ways to manipulate a hinge. What's described here is one option. Personally, I've tried this method and it's not something I've ever gotten a hang of. I prefer getting to anchor and slowly tightening the outer most finger on the release. Functions the same as loosening your index finger but doesn't make you feel like your letting go of your release.

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

I typically just throw it in my pocket but I do have a small paracord tether that is just big enough to fit over my wrist that I use some times.

I use to use the tether more when I first when to a thumb trigger but now I am comfortable with it in my pocket plus I carry an extra one in my pack.

 

[Shakeandbake]

Carter Wise Choice. Last release you will ever own.

 

[bauerjt]

I’ve been using the Silverback for the last 2 seasons. Don’t think I’ll ever go back!