Hunting in a 4Runner

MHO, yes, a drain and fill *should* most likley be fine. I have been in your exact situation before with being at 250k and an unknown history of transmission fluid changes and have done drain and fills.

That being said, there is a school of thought that, at the mileage with an unknown history, you might consider just leaving it alone entirely and driving it until the transmission fails, but that ultimately depends on what your goal is for the longevity of the vehicle.

Have you tried pulling the CarFax history? If the transmission has been serviced at a shop that may be noted in the vehicle history. Of course, not all shops submit maintenance info to Carfax, some people DIY and "transmission service" is usually the only detail you will get if you do get any info at all. If "transmission service" was performed at a dealership, it was probably a flush. You might also take the vehicle to the shop of the mechanic you were talking to and have the maintenance condition further evaluated -how dirty if the diff/transfer case fluid, for example? If other fluids appear to have been maintained, that may lead to more confidence in making a decision.

If you want to take a deep dive, check out the The Car Nut Guy youtube channel. Its a Toyota mechanic and he has some videos on this exact subject.
I appreciate the advice, especially since you have been right where I am at now. I'll check out that youtube channel also.
 
Just picked up a 19 4Runner trd orp. Coming from a 2500 with tons of room and suspension not made for forest service roads. Starting to get a few things on it ready to hunt next fall. Planning to leave it mostly factory, I don’t think I will lift it or anything. It currently has some cheap a/t tires that will do for now. Going to pick up a roof rack, and considering a front bumper with a winch. I have one of those huge pelican gun cases that’s basically so big I hate using it I’ll probably screw to the roof rack for storage.

Going to sleep in the back, will make some sort of platform. I’m short to so that will help.

Looking at options to carry an elk back across the country and I would also like to be able to store a few extra gallons of gas for just incase.

May get one of those armadillo fuel bags. They seem easier to store than any of the can options I’ve seen.

I’ve seen a few adds for those large cooler bags in, some reviews say they will leak on you. They seem like the easiest option.

Cargo carriers just seem like a pain going down forest service roads with. Also seems easy to have something stolen while traveling.

Also 100% will need to get something for apple car play.
Long time reader, first time poster. Figured I ought to contribute since I've gleaned a lot of useful information from Rokslide.

I am in the same boat in terms of hunting out of a 4Runner.

I previously used large "fish bag" style cooler bags for elk quarters. Just put them in the back with the seats down amongst all my other gear. That works but isn't perfect. They're heavy and hard to manage and don't hold ice forever.

So I recently invested in this system, which is not inexpensive obviously. But I have multiple use cases for the Pakmule and for the Yeti 210. And both items hold their resale value quite well. I purchased the Yeti 210 used on FB marketplace, the Pakmule new from them.

I have an Ironman 4x4 Stage 2 Pro Suspension kit on my 4Runner. Upgraded suspension is a must for this to work well loaded down. I haven't used it in the field yet, but have loaded it up with 250 lbs worth of weights ripped around to test it out - works like a charm. Can tell it's back there, but the car still responds, handles and brakes very safely and smoothly. I feel very comfortable with it.

One obvious concern is security. Will be workshopping an effective way to secure the cooler it to the cargo carrier beyond just pad locking the cooler shut. Granted you're not picking this thing up without a fork lift when it's loaded down, but worth noting as a draw back.

Also - agree whole heartedly with Poser's maintenance list as well as the importance of being able to air up and down on the run.
 

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Long time reader, first time poster. Figured I ought to contribute since I've gleaned a lot of useful information from Rokslide.

I am in the same boat in terms of hunting out of a 4Runner.

I previously used large "fish bag" style cooler bags for elk quarters. Just put them in the back with the seats down amongst all my other gear. That works but isn't perfect. They're heavy and hard to manage and don't hold ice forever.

So I recently invested in this system, which is not inexpensive obviously. But I have multiple use cases for the Pakmule and for the Yeti 210. And both items hold their resale value quite well. I purchased the Yeti 210 used on FB marketplace, the Pakmule new from them.

I have an Ironman 4x4 Stage 2 Pro Suspension kit on my 4Runner. Upgraded suspension is a must for this to work well loaded down. I haven't used it in the field yet, but have loaded it up with 250 lbs worth of weights ripped around to test it out - works like a charm. Can tell it's back there, but the car still responds, handles and brakes very safely and smoothly. I feel very comfortable with it.

One obvious concern is security. Will be workshopping an effective way to secure the cooler it to the cargo carrier beyond just pad locking the cooler shut. Granted you're not picking this thing up without a fork lift when it's loaded down, but worth noting as a draw back.

Also - agree whole heartedly with Poser's maintenance list as well as the importance of being able to air up and down on the run.
Very interested in the security aspect, that's what has kept me from keeping coolers external
 
Very interested in the security aspect, that's what has kept me from keeping coolers external
Super legit concern.

My initial thoughts are that if the cooler is empty and I have to leave my vehicle unattended for a long period of time, I can put the cooler in my rig. Dry weight of the cooler is 60 pounds. And then when needed: pad locks to lock the cooler shut and a bike chain lock from one of the pad locks to the cargo carrier. Carrier is attached to the hitch with a ratcheting lock pin.
 
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